This must be Topanga Canyon
There’s still magic in Topanga Canyon.
The fabled mountain community famed for its bohemian sentimentality and artistic mythos has, for decades, garnered a reputation as L.A.’s funky, hippie, commune-happy enclave that bridges Woodland Hills and Pacific Coast Highway. The notoriety is well-earned. A restorative drive through the canyon’s roughly 20-mile main road reveals art installations, roadside vendors and sun-dappled oak trees through twists and turns and vistas each more scenic than the last. It’s a drive worth making, especially now.
After a particularly rainy season, multiple mudslides have blocked Topanga Canyon’s entry from PCH for more than a month. Shops, restaurants and other businesses that depend on visitors are struggling, with access more or less limited to Route 27’s northern entrance, in Woodland Hills.
Get to know Los Angeles through the places that bring it to life. From restaurants to shops to outdoor spaces, here’s what to discover now.
It’s a great time to explore the canyon and support its tight-knit community and natural beauty.
According to linguist, author and Native American language specialist William Bright, the Tongva tribe, who originally occupied the land, named the canyon, though he could not provide a translation. Multiple scholars have speculated it could mean “a place above” — fitting for a region that, on overcast days, can feel above the clouds, its mountains peeking out just over them.
During Hollywood’s Golden Age, some of the world’s most famous stars commissioned homes in the canyon, using Topanga as a weekend getaway. Will Geer and Woody Guthrie created an artists commune that blossomed into a beloved theatrical stage. Neil Young famously recorded “After the Gold Rush” at his home there, and countless other musicians of the 1960s, ’70s and beyond — including Joni Mitchell, Jim Morrison, Marvin Gaye and Colin Hay — have looked to Topanga for inspiration, if not a place to dwell. It’s seen darkness too, including the Manson Family murder of Gary Hinman in 1969. Accusations of healers and spiritualists veering into cult leadership. A collection of burned-out ruins that could have housed a commune of Nazi sympathizers.
Topanga’s juxtaposition of light and dark only adds to the mystique and the mythos of one of L.A.’s most scenic locales. But its intrigue and popularity, as well as its location, could have contributed to making the enclave more inaccessible.
In many ways, like much of Los Angeles, the canyon’s demographics have shifted and metamorphosed in recent history. What was in decades past a mix of homes and ranches accessible for musicians, visual artists, actors and other creatives of varying levels of success and fame has gradually set an increasingly high bar for financial entry. Luxury homes have begun to replace some of its more humble abodes on the cliffsides, and luxury cars line the boulevard.
“Before, people didn’t have fences,” said Patrice Winter, a Topanga resident of more than 50 years and the community fixture behind the Canyon Bakery. “They minded their own business and were neighborly at the same time. In the late ’80s they started building fences, and then the war of how high the fence could be had begun, and that was the change. That’s when I started to notice, ‘You know what? There are people here who think they can move up here into a community and block themselves off because they need peace, and they don’t want to know who their neighbor is.’”
Still, in many ways, the canyon remains the same, in part due to Winter and other locals keeping the community spirit alive. In spring, locals and visitors flock to the community center’s sprawling annual fundraiser, Topanga Days, where the music of live bands floats through the air. In fall, roughly two dozen films from residents, indie talent, up-and-coming directors and more screen in the canyon during the annual Topanga Film Festival. Shop owners and restaurants often can be found collaborating with one another and hosting independent artists with gallery shows and live music nights.
Earlier this year, a pair of longtime residents revitalized the Topanga Farmers Market to help showcase local vendors and revive the weekly event, which had gone dormant for nearly six years. When it returned in early March, the buzz was palpable; it hosted nearly 40 vendors, many of which sold out of their goods entirely.
Topanga’s neighborly mindset also prompts residents to band together to raise awareness for efforts and fundraisers, and regularly use whatever platforms they possess to spread the word about businesses adversely affected by natural disasters and other misfortunes — especially in the wake of the recent mudslides and road blockages.
Despite its changes, modern-day Topanga Canyon is just as full of whimsy, beauty and neighborly love as it ever was. Here are just a few ways to explore its bakers, artists, yoga studios, restaurants and shop owners — with a few suggestions on how to bring a bit of the Topanga spirit home with you.
What's included in this guide
Anyone who’s lived in a major metropolis can tell you that neighborhoods are a tricky thing. They’re eternally malleable and evoke sociological questions around how we place our homes, our neighbors and our communities within a wider tapestry. In the name of neighborly generosity, we included gems that may linger outside of technical parameters. Instead of leaning into stark definitions, we hope to celebrate all of the places that make us love where we live.
Start your day with some swells at Topanga Beach
With so much demand for the long-favorite beach, ocean traffic can lead to unwanted drop-ins and territorial spats. Though Topanga Beach’s famous locals-only vibe has receded somewhat in recent years, it’s best to brush up on surf etiquette and defer to the lifers, especially if you’re a beginner surfer. The waves here are most fitting for the intermediate to advanced crowd, but even if you’re not grabbing a board, this beach is a killer spot to lay out on a blanket and catch the sunrise before heading into the canyon.
Sip a latte on the mountainside patio of Topanga Living Cafe
Peruse the cookies, cinnamon buns, scones, muffins, tartines and other specials in the glass case, or opt for the likes of falafel pita sandwiches with mint tahini, squash tacos topped with curry-vinaigrette slaw or fluffy-egged breakfast burritos — especially with a smoothie, matcha latte, house-made lemonade or any classic espresso concoction. While awaiting your order, note the art and shop the wares such as sage bundles, bags of coffee beans, locally grown honey, tea blends, seasonal jams and bath bombs, then head to the patio for a tranquil space to enjoy the primarily local, organic fare, which often arrives garnished with edible flowers.
Sample the local flavors of rustic pastries at the Canyon Bakery
Shop the canyon’s bounty at the Topanga Farmers Market
Eat in the trees at Cafe on 27
Catch an alfresco show at the storied Will Geer Theatricum Botanicum
Given its founder and its early days as an artists commune, the Theatricum Botanicum is heavily community-minded, hosting fundraisers, educational workshops, youth classes and the Shakespeare-themed “pay what you Will” nights. The theater also honors its founder’s friendship with and legacy of folk hero Woody Guthrie, who for a time lived on the premises; the team currently is working to build the Shelter, a Guthrie and Geer archive on-site. Geer’s daughter Ellen serves as the artistic director, and his granddaughter Willow participates in acting and directing, keeping the family’s legacy alive and thriving in the canyon.
Find your flow at Ethereal Yoga
Seek out the pizza, natural wines and record shop of Endless Color
An overhaul of the space added funky wallpaper, sleek concrete furnishings, splashes of color, wavy light fixtures and rows and rows of vinyl records, which, along with the California-Italian cuisine and whole bottles of natural wine, are also for sale. During the day, guests file in for a pared-down menu of small plates, meatball subs, calzones, chopped salads and 6-inch pizzas, with plenty of children and pups in sight on the patio. In the evening, the bulb lights flip on, the mirror balls glisten and occasional live music sets the scene for a broader menu of larger pizzas featuring seasonal produce and luxe toppings; starters such as roast sunchokes with cashew cream or crab salad lettuce wraps; pastas tossed with canyon ingredients like locally grown chanterelles; and entrées like whole fried branzino in aji verde.
Shop teas, tinctures and vintage at Wüm Essential Elements
“Everything that’s here is a pretty small cluster of what I think are the essential herbs that you would need in a home apothecary,” said Rawls. “There’s hundreds and thousands of different plants, from ayurvedic, traditional Chinese medicine, Latin America, Africa, but these are the ones that I think are central.”
Feast on unique tacos at the La Chingona truck
Her most popular dish is the taco, featuring a freshly made tortilla that’s thick and satisfying, falling somewhere in density between a corn tortilla and an arepa; it folds around steak, chicken, shrimp, fish or vegan fillings such as soy chorizo with potato, nopales, yuca and beyond. Quesadillas, just-blistered on the plancha, can be ordered traditional and filled with vegetables and meats, while the vegan variety stuffs the pliant flour tortillas with potato starch, tapioca and coconut.
The standard menu offers ample items to mix and match, but don’t neglect the chalkboard specials, which might include handmade tamales, elote bowls, loaded fries, watermelon Tajin bowls, vegan horchata, tortas and seasonal aguas frescas. This is refreshing Guatemalan and Mexican food served with care against a scenic mountain range. Find Lemus and La Chingona popping up Tuesday, Friday and Sunday in Pine Tree Circle, and at community events.
Browse one-of-a-kind home goods — from local to global — at Kinship Station
Find a dizzying array of incense bundles, bath soaks, natural soaps, tinctures, candles and body oils meant to calm or energize, while items for the home — such as handmade ceramics, woven baskets, stained-glass trinkets, brass bowls and heavy, glossy wooden cutting boards — are always in view somewhere, beckoning. The racks of artisanal shawls and leather goods are just as enticing as the cases glowing with gold and gem-dotted necklaces, rings, studs and bracelets. Nikbakht keeps sustainable practices and a fair-trade ecosystem in mind, and she rotates the wares frequently, so drop by often to browse something new on nearly — if not every — visit.
Tap into the sustainability mindset at the Well Refill
Simply bring your own sealable jars — even old, used containers you’re giving new life — or pick one up at the shop and peruse the rows and jugs to choose from. There are mouthwashes, hair detangling sprays, dish soaps, baby shampoos, algae face masks, laundry detergents, Epsom salts and more, most priced by the ounce, and all meant to promote nontoxic and low-waste lifestyles. The Well Refill’s no- to low-waste mission extends to its nonrefillable products too, with home items such as reusable beeswax food wrappers, coconut-husk dish scrubbers, a selection of vintage clothing, reusable straws, reusable cotton coffee filters and tea strainers and reusable fabric dish covers.
Have a romantic creekside dinner at Inn of the Seventh Ray
Husband-and-wife Ralph and Lucile Yaney opened the restaurant in the early 1970s and still maintain their dietetic bent: Organic goods, whole grains, seasonal produce, line-caught seafood and grass-fed meats are all de rigueur now, but they’ve been the practice for decades at Topanga’s most famous restaurant.
Look for items such as house-made gnocchetti with sunflower pesto; seared scallops with lemongrass emulsion; roasted mushroom tartine with sherry and tarragon cream; and, at brunch, vegan and omnivorous all-you-can-eat buffets plus a la carte items like brown rice breakfast bowls and duck-bacon omelets. Don’t be surprised to see weddings, proposals and other major life events being celebrated on the grounds — it’s a transportive, special place, and a popular one.
Dive into spirituality at the Spiral Staircase
Bring home a taste of Topanga from Canyon Gourmet
Peruse the rows of tinned fish, jars of local honeys, bags of dried pastas, bottles of salsas and marinades and packs of fresh, heirloom-grain tortillas as you wonder what to make for dinner this week. If you still can’t decide, turn your attention to the cold cases filled with pasture-raised meats, charcuterie and cheese, plus ready-made spreads and other items from L.A. icons like Gjusta. In the produce case are small mountains of tomatoes and foraged chanterelles, plus a color wheel of chicories. At the front counter? Freshly baked boules and croissants. Owner Peter Michael Kagan methodically sources his produce and bouquets from local growers and makes multiple trips to the Santa Monica Farmers Market each week, toting his best finds up to the Topanga store. This is the place to find a new favorite local product.
Find shopping scores on the side of the road
Be on the lookout for roadside stands selling fresh fruit, vintage clothes, crystals and homemade items such as Tiffany’s Torcher Hot Sauce, which owner Dale Tiffany sells out of the back of his Kia on Sundays. The all-natural, sugar-free sauces sprouted from necessity, with Tiffany planting hot peppers throughout his Topanga garden to ward off pests. Ever since his first crop from 2009, he’s been turning these peppers into complex, searing and hyper-local hot sauce. What’s more, with every purchase Tiffany donates 10 meals to those in need via the nonprofit Feeding America.
Tuck into curries and stir-fries with a view at Cholada Thai Beach Cuisine
Given Cholada’s proximity to the coast, seafood is a focus here, whether it’s fried whole and under a blanket of herbs, simmered in curry, hand-ground into fishcakes, fried in wonton wrappers or tossed with fresh ginger as a squid salad. Look for decades-long favorites such as the Spicy Seafood Bonanza — which wok-fries crab, squid, shrimp and fish with peppers, onions, broccoli and Thai basil — and daily and seasonal specials, such as pumpkin curry with sole, which are written on the chalkboard. U.S.-ubiquitous Thai dishes are here as well, from pad Thai and other pan-fried noodles to garlic ribs, Thai barbecued chicken, tom kah soup and a rainbow of curries dotted with duck, serrano chiles, vegetables and more.
Customize your fish dinner at the Reel Inn
Pick up heaped-high sandwiches and cannoli at Cricca’s Italian Deli
Owners Kevin and Marla McHenry do classics right — their Italian sub is one of the best in L.A. — but their spins on stalwarts such as their No. 1 seller, the Godfather, which adds roast beef and turkey to the usual Italian-meat lineup, are worth a detour from the usual deli suspects. Perhaps best of all is their meatball sub, with plump, fresh, soft meatballs the size of lemons made fresh every morning and simmered in a daily-made house red sauce. It’s all ladled into garlic bread and oozing mozzarella. One large sub is ample for two, but don’t skip the deli case of freshly made cannoli, nor the rows and rows of chips, cookies, seltzers and teas — everything you need for a pre- or post-canyon activity.
Rediscover an old-school barbecue joint at the edge of the canyon
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