This must be Elysian Valley (a.k.a. Frogtown)
Nestled between the Golden State Freeway and the Los Angeles River, Elysian Valley — also known as Frogtown because of the western toads that once inundated the residential streets — often has been described as an “isolated” urban community.
Geographically speaking, that makes sense. But if you spend time in the 3-mile-long neighborhood, where businesses and homes butt against one another, you’ll see people from all over town flocking to the river-adjacent area. And for good reason.
“We used to feel like we were this somewhat remote outpost,” said architect Tracy Stone, president of the Elysian Valley Arts Collective, who has lived there for 20 years. “You have to come here deliberately. When outward-facing places like Wax Paper opened in 2016, I thought, ‘Who will come here?’ Much to my amazement and delight, they proved it’s possible.”
Indeed. On a recent Saturday morning, a long line of bicyclists, couples with dogs and families waited patiently for coffee at La Colombe Coffee Roasters on the Elysian Valley Bicycle & Pedestrian Path, a 7-mile stretch along the L.A. River that serves as a sidewalk for the neighborhood.
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A few blocks down the street, in an old machine shop, the line is equally long at Justine Hernandez’s vegan bakery, Just What I Kneaded, which specializes in sweet and savory pastries.
“We love it here,” said Hernandez, who opened Justine’s Wine Bar behind her bakery in August. “It is such a creative hub, and the neighbors are lovely. Sometimes it feels like Sesame Street in the best way.”
Later that day, more than 35 vendors set up at First Impressions Dance Studio, Frogtown Brewery, the Pot Shop, Spoke Cafe and Singulier & vintage for the monthly Frogtown Flea Crawl, which debuted in April. Co-organized by Analise Anderson and James Andrews, the walkable event highlights small local brands.
“There’s nowhere else you can find a river, trees and so much beauty,” Anderson said of the unique shopping experience. “There is a feeling that all of these vendors genuinely love what they do. People who come to our market feel a great sense of community.”
Once known for the small factories that provided working-class jobs for the predominantly Latino and Filipino immigrants, Elysian Valley’s reputation as an industrial neighborhood changed when factories closed, and many artists and nonprofit organizations moved in due to the affordable rent.
When the L.A. River Revitalization Corp. announced a new master plan to redevelop the Los Angeles River in 2015, the neighborhood changed further as rents soared, developers added luxury lofts and high-rise apartments, and artists moved out.
So did many immigrant families.
In an oral history published in The Times in 2015, longtime Elysian Valley resident Daniel Paredes shared how his family was displaced four times when their rent increased. He also weighed in on the challenges of the green gentrification of the river. “Sometimes it feels like things that are ‘green’ don’t take into account the things that people of color may be concerned about,” he said.
It’s a trend that continues today. Although Bauer Pottery, which lost its lease in Atwater in September, plans to open its new showroom on Blake Street the first week in February, the sustainable sewing and production company Suay Sew Shop, which has been in Elysian Valley since 2017, will move to the Arts District in downtown Los Angeles this month after being priced out of its space. Kruegermann Pickles & Sauerkraut shut down its factory at the end of 2022 after 58 years in the neighborhood.
Despite the neighborhood’s growing pains — parking is an issue, and the neighbors have advocated for DASH bus service — Stone has hope for its future.
“Even with the many newcomers, I can walk into Spoke at any time of day and see a neighbor,” she said. “I can also walk out my door and have a choice of four or five amazing restaurants within a few blocks. It makes the experience of living here rich and wonderful. One of the things I love about the business community in Elysian Valley is the majority of them came here deliberately and want to be a part of the community. A wealth of nonprofits operate in this neighborhood and do great work. Many businesses offer neighborhood discounts and genuinely want to be good neighbors.”
That sense of connection is what makes Elysian Valley so welcoming. Whether you’re sipping a custom flight at Frogtown Brewery, refilling your bike tires for free at Spoke or perusing pop-up art exhibits at the Frogtown Artwalk, it’s a feeling that will stay with you long after you leave.
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What's included in this guide
Anyone who’s lived in a major metropolis can tell you that neighborhoods are a tricky thing. They’re eternally malleable and evoke sociological questions around how we place our homes, our neighbors and our communities within a wider tapestry. In the name of neighborly generosity, we included gems that may linger outside of technical parameters. Instead of leaning into stark definitions, we hope to celebrate all of the places that make us love where we live.
Get your caffeine fix at La Colombe Frogtown Cafe and Roastery
The coffee is smooth, with several varieties offered in drip, espresso and pour-over form. A seasonal Frogtown blend, with notes of marzipan, cacao and hazelnut, honors La Colombe’s first West Coast roastery.
The cafe also serves tea and traditional pastries, including croissants, Danish, muffins and chocolate chip cookies. It’s also worth noting that the baristas won’t roll their eyes if you ask for nondairy alternatives.
The space is sleek, with floor-to-ceiling black-clad metal industrial windows overlooking the patio, but the vibe is warm, especially with a wall filled with exuberant artworks by local children.
Parking is limited, but there are a few parking spaces in the adjacent lot if you want to pick up something to go. Open 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.
Indulge in a lemon-zested cinnamon bun at Just What I Kneaded
Find your flow inside a former Buddhist meditation center at Roam Yoga
I took a Level 1/2 class with Beatrice Buenaventura, who was thoughtful about her flows and offered good insights into students’ techniques (especially when she offered an adjustment when I did a headstand incorrectly). Many of the students knew one another, which gave the class a friendly, welcoming energy.
Roam offers a good spread of levels, so you can find a more challenging class if that interests you. There are several classes a day, from as early as 7:30 a.m. to as late as 7:30 p.m., and livestream classes are available online. If mindfulness interests you, Nick Thurston offers guided and silent meditations on Monday evenings, which seems fitting for a former meditation center.
Single class, $25. Livestream class, $13 with new student and Class Pass discounts.
Nibble shrimp aguachile on the patio of Mariscos Za Za Zá
Open Thursdays through Mondays, noon to 3:30 p.m.
Read more about Frogtown’s new lunchtime marisqueria.
Try the Terry Gross or the Ira Glass sandwich at Wax Paper
Since Lauren and Peter Lemos opened the original Wax Paper in Frogtown during 2015, they’ve added a second location in Chinatown and opened Frogtown’s Lingua Franca. Both Wax Paper locations are open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, though their menus vary (the Ira Glass, Larry Mantle and Kai Ryssdal are available at both locations, but the rest of the sandwiches are exclusive to Chinatown or Frogtown). Sides and desserts include veggies, chips, coleslaw and cookies, but the various flavors of Dole Whip will always steal the show on a hot summer day by the river.
Watch bicyclists go by while dining at the riverfront Lingua Franca
Bike along the L.A. River and eat at Spoke Café
Picnic among native plants at Lewis MacAdams Riverfront Park
Entrances are at 2999 Rosanna St., 2944 Gleneden St. and 2960 Marsh St.
Walk or bike across the bright orange Taylor Yard Bikeway and Pedestrian Bridge
If you decide to walk, wear a hat because there is little shade along the bike path. Also, be sure to look both ways before you cross the two-lane path because many bicyclists treat it like a freeway and will approach quickly.
Soak in a float therapy tank at Quantum Clinic
During the pandemic, Dr. Katelyn Lehman had recurring dreams that guided her to visit the Los Angeles River. “On one of my walks in the area, I encountered the property for lease, and the rest just sort of unfolded from there.”
Lehman and Ramos opened the luxury health spa this year, incorporating immersive flotation, sound therapy and biofeedback to facilitate a restorative experience.
You can float alone for $96 or with a partner for $118.
Throw a pot at Claytivity
Outside of class, the studio is free for you to use from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. as long as no classes are going on. It’s up to you and how much you want to work. That is why some students in the class will have 20 pots, and others will have a few. At the end of class, you will have a piece ready for glazing, which you will pick up after it has been fired. The $195 class is a great way to meet people, as classes have a maximum of eight students.
Enjoy Sonora barbecue on the patio of Salazar, a former mechanic’s shop
Open daily, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Sample small plates and natural wine at the vegan Justine's Wine Bar
The wine list offers a blend of Old World Austrian and French wines and funky, fun more-local labels, plus low-ABV mixed drinks. Hernandez believes that blend of old and new, of traditional and experimental, is Justine’s Wine Bar (and Just What I Kneaded) in a nutshell: “That’s kind of what we stand for,” she said. “We have this sort of old-school cafe [bakery] in the sense that it’s almost like a diner with biscuits and Pop-Tarts, but with the new-school way of making it vegan.”
Though the new business is named after herself, Hernandez sees the wine bar as a collaboration by local artists: Her friends designed the lighting, painted the mural and arranged and curated the floral arrangements found throughout the bar. “Everybody had input to create this very unique space,” she said. “It’s kind of transformative: from this industrial neighborhood to a sort of feminine jungle that you step into. It’s a sexy escape.”
Openfrom 4 to 11 p.m. daily.
Enjoy a beer with your kids and dog at the family-friendly Frogtown Brewery
Homebrewers Adam Kestel and Mike Voss opened the brewery and taproom in 2016 with business partner Gustavo Rojas with the goal of creating a friendly neighborhood brewery that served handcrafted beers.
Today, the taproom offers a rotating selection of beers that you can sample on custom flights, from the popular Kinky Blonde Ale to the Stratasphere IPA with hints of passion fruit and grapefruit.
The dark, art-filled taproom and bar offer a reprieve from the sun, while the outdoor beer garden includes fire pits for cooler months. There is a stage for comedy, drag and other live entertainment, as well as regular food trucks (the brewery does not serve food). You can also grab bottles and beers from the refrigerators inside the taproom on your way out.
Devour prawn tacos and other Mexican seafood dishes at Loreto
Catch an eccentric comedy show at Zebulon
As far as programming goes, past events include music by Sun Ra Arkestra, a “Gumby” screening followed by a Q&A with animator Rich Zim and a comedy night led by “Saturday Night Live’s” Sarah Squirm. Though some of the shows are free, the vast majority of Zebulon’s tickets are less than $30. Most shows are standing room only, and you’ll usually find free earplugs off to the side as you enter the back room. Drinks are reasonably priced (beer cans and bottles are $8 or less) and the food menu includes thin-crust pizzas, chickpea crepes, $5 tacos and classic bar snacks like nuts and fries. Between Zebulon and Salazar — the delicious Mexican restaurant next door — street parking is scarce.
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