Scouting Report: Pupusas and sopes at La Esquina 2, a casual corner in Glassell Park
Name of restaurant: La Esquina 2, which means “the corner” in Spanish.
Owner: The owners of the La Esquina meat market on Division Street opened this restaurant in 2012. The interior is Formica casual, but you know you’re getting high-quality meat.
Concept: A comfortable marriage of Salvadoran and Mexican food in a casual corner in Glassell Park, across the street from the Fresh & Easy.
What dish represents the restaurant, and why: The sopes here are piled high with your choice of meat, frijoles, shredded iceberg and a generous mound of cotija — all that for under two bucks a pop. Though sopes are traditionally considered antojitos (appetizers), a couple of them can make for a terrific lunch. The asada version has a generous serving of beef, just charred enough. And you can never go wrong with pollo.
Runner-up: The restaurant also has a lineup of pupusas, such as cheese, zucchini, mushrooms, beans, chicharron and mixta. Although they have the usual masa varieties, their pupas de arroz are made with rice flour; they’re thinner and have a texture only rice flour can give. And, of course, heap on the homemade curtido.
Who’s at the next table? Casual passersby and people from the neighborhood stop by for a quick meal or to get dinner on the way home.
Appropriate for: An inexpensive meal with old friends or a quick dinner to pick up on the way home from work.
Problematic: If you order the yucca con chicharron, get the pork sancochada (par-boiled), instead of frita (fried) — the fried pork is kind of like eating big hunks of jerky. The hours here are also a little variable, so be sure to call before making a special trip.
Service: It’s casual — order at the counter, and your food will be brought to you as soon as it’s ready. Be sure to bring cash, as they’ll take plastic but will charge a small processing fee.
What are you drinking? The Salvadoran horchata, which is made with sesame seeds instead of rice, giving it a nuttier flavor. You also could opt for the maracuya (passionfruit), jamaica or the tamarind agua frescas. The atole or champurrado are also good choices.
Info: 4159 Eagle Rock Blvd., 323-474-6050, laesquinarestaurant.com.
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