What to do, see and eat in Mendocino, California - Los Angeles Times
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Photos by Fiona Chandra, Nicole LaMotte, Mar Vista Farm + Cottages, Visit Mendocino County

14 things to do on the mystical Mendocino coast — like ride a railbike in a redwood grove

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There will be no cell signal during most of your drive along the coast of Mendocino, and half the time, there won’t even be a radio station to tune in to. All you’re left to do is slow down and take in your surroundings.

Yet you won’t be complaining. This stretch of Highway 1 in Northern California is full of twists and turns, revealing a rocky shoreline on one side and giant redwoods on the other. The view is ever-changing, equally breathtaking when the sun is shining and when the coastal fog descends.

Mendocino coast starts from Gualala in the south, where it borders Sonoma County, and ends around Sinkyone Wilderness State Park in the north, bordering Humboldt County. The fastest way for Angelenos to get there is to fly to Santa Rosa Airport and drive two hours across the 101 Freeway (the new-ish budget airline Avelo flies from Burbank to Santa Rosa, starting from $44 each way).

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Upon your arrival to the coastal town, you might be surprised by the lack of modern Bay Area conveniences. But you’ll quickly forgive. This is a place where coast-to-table and farm-to-table dining is the norm because it’s easier than trying to get produce delivered. It’s a place lined with charming seaside villages, beaches that are hardly crowded and unique ecological wonders. Along this coast is evidence of how the strength of the ocean has shaped this land: lush pygmy forests, sandstone concretions shaped like bowling balls and sea caves arched over blue-green waters.

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Some newer residents say they made their way to Mendocino coast for a visit and its natural beauty compelled them to stay. Husband-and-wife duo Victor Passalacqua and Melissa Boon took on jobs as innkeepers for Elk Cove Inn during the pandemic, thinking it would be a temporary move. They arrived late at night, hitching a ride on a truck after their van broke down near Navarro Bridge. But once Boon woke up to a view of the ocean waves crashing on Gunderson Rock, she didn’t want to leave. They’re now co-owners of the inn.

“You don’t find Elk, Elk finds you,” Boon said, remembering a saying about the tiny town that has stuck with her.

A bit of Mendocino County history: For millennia, the Pomo Indians lived in the area, catching fish and shellfish along the coast until their forcible removal in the mid-1800s. On the southern side of the coast in Point Arena, the Spaniards arrived in 1542 and used the area as a navigational site. But the turning point for settlements happened in 1850 when a trading ship called Frolic was returning from China to San Francisco and sank near Point Cabrillo, a few miles from what is now the town of Mendocino. This brought salvagers up to Mendocino and while they weren’t able to recover the ship’s cargo, they found another valuable discovery here: the redwood forest. This spurred the start of the lumber industry in the area and led to a boom in economy and population.

In recent years, Mendocino has faced challenges from extreme drought to careless visitors. (Fort Bragg, the biggest town on the coast, is famous for its Glass Beach, which sadly doesn’t have many glass pebbles left as tourists keep picking them as souvenirs.) But with the rains offering a reprieve, it’s a good time for an escape to this slice of coastline. In addition to dozens of hidden coves and secret beaches that would take months to explore, here are 14 things to do, see and eat.

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trees sticking through a deck
(Visit Mendocino County )

Pygmy Forest Discovery Trail

Mendocino Forest Trail
This discovery trail is a short, wheelchair-accessible route through a unique ecological area. At first glance, it may look just like a boardwalk through a small forest, but the soil here is actually over 500,000 years old. The geography prevents new soil formation and there isn’t new soil draining into it from above. This results in acidic soil with low nutrients, preventing root growth — which is why you may feel like a giant walking through groves of low, stunted trees.

The short loop has signs explaining the unique features of the forest and the plants that can be found here. As an example, the Mendocino cypress can normally grow over 100 feet tall in better conditions, but here they are only 1 or 2 feet high despite being over 100 years old. There are also dwarf manzanitas and rhododendrons that are one-fifth the size of their counterparts in neighboring redwood forests. To get here, take Little River Airport Road for about 2.5 miles until you see signs pointing to the parking lot.
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Rail bikes in Fort Bragg.
(Fiona Chandra)

The Skunk Train and railbikes in Fort Bragg

Mendocino Experience
This historic train was built in 1885 to transport lumber, and it got its nickname in 1925 when motorcars. were introduced. The motorcars had stoves burning crude oil to keep passengers warm, and combined with the gasoline that was powering the engines, it created quite the pungent, skunk-like odor. (Don’t worry, though — the train doesn’t smell like that anymore.)

These days, you can take a ride on the historic trains while passing through redwood trees. If you do so on Friday nights and certain Saturday nights, you can also enjoy drinks outdoors at Glen Blair Bar, which feels like a summer camp in the middle of the redwoods and is only accessible by the Skunk Train.

Alternatively, ride on the railroad tracks while enjoying the fresh air with the company’s railbikes. These bikes allow for more time to enjoy the scenery around the tracks, and they’re electric-powered so you don’t have to pedal yourself — unless you want the leg workout.
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Point Arena Lighthouse
(Fiona Chandra)

Point Arena Lighthouse

Mendocino Historical Landmark
The tallest lighthouse on the West Coast (tied with Pigeon Point Lighthouse at 115 feet) and one that you can actually climb, Point Arena towers as the stately guard of the peninsula and begs you to linger long beyond your snapshot.

The original lighthouse, built in 1870, was destroyed in an earthquake in 1906 and a new lighthouse was built in 1908. Visit the free museum, and if you hadn’t thought about how lighthouses work before electricity was a thing, check out the display of the old Fresnel lens. Developed in the late 1700s, it’s composed of a series of concentric rings of lenses that concentrate the light into a narrow beam. Point Arena Lighthouse’s Fresnel lens is 7 feet in diameter and was able to concentrate the light from an oil lamp so that it was visible 21.5 miles away from the shore.

Tours to climb up the lighthouse tower are $5 per person. They take place about every 20 minutes (though the staff may take a one-hour lunch break in the afternoon). Fun fact: The lighthouse also served as a filming location for the Mel Gibson film “Forever Young.”
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a bridge over water
(Visit Mendocino County)

Russian Gulch State Park

Mendocino State Park
Most people recognize Russian Gulch State Park from photos of the iconic Frederick W. Panhorst Bridge (a.k.a. the Russian Gulch Bridge), but the park offers much more than a view.

There’s a collapsed sea cave along the coast called the Devil’s Punchbowl that’s accessible via a short trail. The sinkhole is connected to the ocean by a tunnel, and at high tide, the bottom is filled with crashing waves. Further inland is a 36-foot waterfall that you can get to from a couple of different hiking trails. The Fern Canyon Trail that connects to the Falls Loop Trail is a favorite among many, although a portion may still be closed for renovation following the storms this past winter.

Russian Gulch had been a harbor for fishing boats and freight ships until a Los Angeles developer noticed that the area could be a prime destination for vacationers and purchased land around it to build a resort. A decade later, the state purchased the land that is now the state park.
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Bowling Ball Beach
(Visit Mendocino County)

Bowling Ball Beach

Mendocino Beach
Those large round sandstone rocks that line the beach and kind of look like bowling balls? They’re concretions, hard masses found within rocks that are left exposed as their exteriors are eroded away by the waves. Bowling Ball Beach is best visited during low tide, otherwise the concretions are mostly underwater.

To reach the beach, park at the Schooner Gulch trailhead. There are two trailheads by the parking area. Take the trailhead on the right and follow the mostly flat trail until you see steps going down to the beach. Be warned that the bottom steps require a bit of rock scrambling as they’re weathered away. Keep going to the right once you get down to reach the beach — during low tide, you won’t be able to miss the dozens of spherical rocks sitting by the waves. If you accidentally take the wrong trailhead and end up at Schooner Gulch State Beach, that’s OK, you can still get to Bowling Ball Beach by heading right. It’ll just be a longer walk on the beach.
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interior of an art gallery
(Michael McDonald / Mendocino Art Center)

Mendocino Art Center

Mendocino Arts
The Mendocino Art Center isn’t only a center with workshops for the community, a retreat for artists in residence and a gallery for everyone to enjoy — it’s also a place of historical significance in Mendocino. After the lumber industry in Mendocino ended in the late 1930s, the economy was in decline. The founding of Mendocino Art Center by artist Bill Zacha was responsible for the revitalization of the town in the 1950s as Mendocino became known as a burgeoning art colony.

Today the small gallery has a rotating art exhibit and the store features arts and crafts from Northern California artists. There are sculptures scattered around the garden surrounding the gallery. The art center also offers a series of ceramics workshops and youth art classes. Movie fans might also be interested in checking out the art center as it was one of the filming locations of “East of Eden” starring James Dean. The gallery exhibit is free to check out, although donations are always appreciated.
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a person paddles in the blue sea
(Fiona Chandra)

Kayak Mendocino

Mendocino Experience
The rugged coast of Mendocino has an abundance of sea caves that are best explored by kayak. Kayak Mendocino, which has guided paddlers for more than 15 years, starts its tours from Van Damme Beach because it’s flanked by rocky points, meaning you’ll find calmer waters that are safe for beginners. There are a few sea caves that are accessible in this area, though whether you’ll get to paddle through them depends on the tide and wave conditions. Once inside one of the caves, be sure to take a look at the sandstone above, carved by the powerful ocean.

The tour takes about three hours and Kayak Mendocino typically runs one tour in the morning and another in the afternoon.
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an old white house
(Fiona Chandra)

Nicholson House

Mendocino Lodging
Mendocino Village, surrounded by ocean bluffs called the Mendocino Headlands, is a charming and very walkable town with New England-style Victorian homes — most of which now operate as bed and breakfasts or restaurants. One is the Nicholson House, originally a private residence built in 1906. It was recently purchased by the new owners of nearby Cafe Beaujolais and reopened as a boutique inn after an extensive renovation.

Nicholson House is conveniently located within walking distance to the shops and restaurants in town. Instead of having breakfast at the hotel, guests can walk a couple doors down to grab coffee and breakfast at the Waiting Room. This coffee shop comes from the same owner as Nicholson House and guests of the inn get a voucher for breakfast for two each day. All the rooms combine vintage furniture with modern luxury such as heated tile floors in the bathroom and a well-stocked coffee and tea bar. Rooms start at $250 a night but you can splurge on a spa view suite with a clawfoot bathtub and a walk-in steam shower.
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white buildings at an inn
(Fiona Chandra)

Elk Cove Inn

Mendocino Lodging
One of the first bed and breakfast inns in the area, Elk Cove Inn has been offering some of the best coastal views anywhere since 1968. And its history extends far beyond that: The Craftsman-style mansion that is now one of the buildings of the inn was originally built in 1883 by L.E. White, who owned a lumber company in Elk.

Most rooms offer a peaceful view of Greenwood Creek State Beach and Gunderson Rock in the distance. The rooms are split between the Craftsman mansion, carriagehouse, a bungalow built from redwoods and the newer cliffside cottages. They’re cozy and comfortable with Comphy bed sheets and freshly made breakfast delivered each morning.

The current innkeepers are chef Victor Passalacqua and his wife, Melissa Boon, who is a certified sommelier. Passalacqua has worked under renowned French chefs like Paul Bocuse, so the inn also operates a restaurant serving a French-inflected menu. Elk’s rather remote location makes it difficult to source ingredients, so the couple watched YouTube videos to learn how to build a greenhouse and a chicken coop. Now much of the food is grown right on the property. The restaurant is open to the public by reservation and pre-order only. Rooms start at $265 a night.
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a farmhouse with the ocean in the background
(Mar Vista Farm + Cottages)

Mar Vista Farm + Cottages

Mendocino Lodging
Here’s your reminder to keep an eye on the road while driving into Mar Vista Farm + Cottages — and watch for the chickens that may be happily wandering about.

This collection of cozy cottages is perfect for a family getaway. Guests are welcome to join daily activities like feeding the farm’s three goats and harvesting freshly laid eggs that are delivered to each cottage. There’s also a greenhouse with herbs and vegetables that guests can harvest and cook in their well-stocked kitchens in the cottages (there’s even a cast-iron pan).

For outdoor enthusiasts, the cottage is well-situated for adventures — a trail that goes along the creek starts right on the property and there’s beach access across the street. Cottages start at $245 a night and guests can add a breakfast basket for two for $75. It’s filled with local products like Little Green Bean coffee and Pelican Bread, along with fresh fruits from the Mar Vista gardens.
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three pieces of a dessert
(Brendan McGuigan / Harbor House Inn )

Harbor House Inn

Mendocino Restaurant
This luxury inn has been drawing more food lovers to the Mendocino Coast in recent years, thanks to its 18-seat restaurant that received two Michelin stars. Chef Matthew Kammerer honed his skills at San Francisco’s Saison before moving to Elk to head up the kitchen at Harbor House Inn. He and his team forage for seaweed and herbs on the coast and create dishes that use hyper-local ingredients and highlight the area’s bounty, from local sea urchin served on chopped egg custard to sourdough bread with sea lettuce butter. The team also built a 320-acre ranch south of Point Arena in 2021, and the farm now grows produce used by the kitchen.

The full tasting menu dinner is a splurge at $275 per person, but Harbor House Inn also offers a smaller five-course menu at lunch for $90. Staying the night at the inn is also not a cheap proposition (rooms start at $550 per night), but it does come with perhaps the best hotel breakfast on the coast.
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Japanese fried food
(Fiona Chandra)

Izakaya Gama

Mendocino Restaurant
David and Elyse Hopps both moved to the Mendocino coast as the opening sous chef and pastry chef, respectively, at Harbor House Inn, and later struck out on their own to return to their first passion: Japanese food.

The Hopps, who met while working at a Japanese restaurant in Salt Lake City 16 years ago, opened Izakaya Gama in 2020 and the restaurant quickly became the most talked-about place to eat in Point Arena for locals and travelers alike. At the end of the night, it isn’t a surprise to see owners and workers of other nearby businesses coming in for dinner or a drink. The menu features chicken karaage, yakitori and occasional specials like chawanmushi or ramen. There’s also nicely curated list of sake and Japanese beer.
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Princess Seafood
(Visit Mendocino County)

Princess Seafood

Mendocino Eatery
With fishing still a main industry in Fort Bragg, Noyo Harbor is used by many commercial fishing outfitters — and there are a couple of eateries in the harbor where you can taste the freshest catch. One is Princess Seafood, named for its 42-foot boat. It’s run by an all-female crew, who operate a market and deli that serve its freshly caught seafood in king salmon burgers, grilled local rock cod and other dishes. When in season, try the Dungeness crab roll with garlic butter, Old Bay spice, tomatoes and mayo. After lunch, take a quick stroll around the Noyo Harbor, which was the filming location for “Overboard” starring Goldie Hawn and the dock scenes in “Murder, She Wrote.”
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a glass of beer on a bartop
(Fiona Chandra)

New Museum Brewers + Blenders

Mendocino Brewery
The famous North Coast Brewing in Fort Bragg aside, there surprisingly aren’t many breweries along the Mendocino Coast. But the New Museum Brewers + Blenders entered the scene in 2022 and quickly became a favorite hangout among locals. Peter McDowell and Rose Walterbach initially moved from Oregon to Mendocino County to work at Anderson Valley Brewing, but when they returned to Oregon, they found themselves missing Mendocino. Long having wanted to open their own brewery, they eventually were able to take over the oldest building on Main Street in Point Arena, a blue, two-story building that was built around 1893. McDowell and Walterbach are now brewing Belgian ales, IPAs and farmhouse ales the “Old World” way in open top squares, which they believe impart a better flavor for their beers. The brewery also offers a small menu of tacos, salads and ceviche and occasionally hosts live music performances.
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