Scallion-Ginger Clams
Ginger, scallion and garlic make up the aromatic trio in Shanghai cooking. They add fragrance and depth and neutralize the “meatiness” or “fishiness” of pork and seafood. This dish uses all three to lusciously season clams. The clams typically used in Shanghai are dime-size, paper-thin-shelled clams called hai gua zi, “seeds from the sea.” I admit, they’re a pain to eat because the morsel of flesh extracted from one clam is about the size of a pumpkin seed, but that flesh is so sweet and tender, it’s worth it. I can’t find these clams where I live, so I use littleneck or razor clams when they’re available. There are three simple steps: Steam the clams open, quickly stir-fry with sauce and then finish with sizzling-hot oil over ginger and scallions. Every step includes aromatics and another layer of flavor. I imagine this would be a marvelous way to prepare mussels too.
Prep the clams: Rinse the clams thoroughly under cold water. Discard any cracked or open shells. Soak in cold water for 10 to 20 minutes if they are sandy. Meanwhile, smack the scallions and ginger with the flat side of a cleaver to bruise.
Fill a large saucepan with enough water to come 1/2 inch (12 mm) up the side of the pan. Add the bruised scallions and ginger and the wine, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the clams, then cover and cook until all the clams are opened, about 3 minutes. Remove the steamed clams with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl. Discard any clams that are not open.
Fry the clams: Heat a well-seasoned wok or large skillet over medium-high. Add the oil and swirl the wok to distribute it. Add the minced garlic, ginger and the white and light green parts of the scallions and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
In a small bowl, whisk the soy sauce with the sugar. Add the clams to the wok, immediately pour in the soy sauce mixture, then turn off the heat. The soy sauce mixture will bubble and caramelize, becoming thick and aromatic. Toss the clams to coat with the sauce. Transfer the clams to a large serving plate, making sure to pour any remaining sauce over them.
To finish: Pile the minced ginger and the reserved dark green parts of the scallions on top of the clams. In a small saucepan, heat the cooking oil until it bubbles when a chopstick is inserted, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour it over the ginger-scallion garnish (you’ll hear the sizzling!) and serve.
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