Guidebook: War and Remembrance
Getting there: Air France and Air Tahiti Nui fly nonstop from LAX to Paris’ De Gaulle Airport. US Airways flies direct (one stop), and American, United, Delta, Continental, Northwest, Lufthansa and British Airways offer connecting service (change of plane). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,177.
Telephones: To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 33 (country code for France), 4 (the area code) and the local number.
Where to stay: I stayed at the Hôtel Bel Horizon, 24 Chemin de Molle; 71-59-74-39, fax 71-59-79-81,
The Clair Matin, Les Barandons; 71-59-73-03, fax 71-65-87-66. It has 30 rooms and is a couple of miles east of Le Chambon, off the D-157. Doubles $45-$72.
My favorite hotel in the area is the 17-room Hostellerie Placide in nearby Tence, at 1 Route d’Annonay; 71-59-82-76, fax 71-65-44-46,
Where to eat: The mostly rural Auvergne is not the home of haute cuisine. Nevertheless, you can eat well there, especially if you like meat, potatoes and lentils. My favorite restaurant was the dining room of the Hostellerie Placide, but the Bel Horizon provided memorable meals as well. Several restaurants in Le Chambon specialize in regional cuisine, hearty country food emphasizing Auvergne beef, ham and sausages, rabbit and fish from local rivers, plus lots of potatoes and lentils. Dinner at most places shouldn’t cost more than $20-$30, including wine.
Le Charleston, Route du Golf; 71-59-79-61. A “restaurant gastronomique,” with specialties including duck with morel mushrooms and roast trout with local herbs.
Chez Léon, Route du Golf; 71-65-90-39. An “auberge typique” featuring ham on onions and fricassee of rabbit in wine.
For more information: Office de Tourisme, 1 Rue des Quatre Saisons; 71-59-71-56, fax 71-65-88-78,
French Government Tourist Office, 9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 715, Beverly Hills, CA 90212; France-on-Call hotline (410) 286-8310 (for brochures), (310) 271-6665, fax (310) 276-2835,
James Dannenberg
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