In Long Beach, neighborhood Thai at Manaow

Name of restaurant: Manaow.

Chef/owner: A group project from the Pungauthaikan family, led by mother-and-daughter team Nitaya and Parry, this is a sweet little spot tucked unassumingly between a package store and a laundromat. Much of the specialty produce for the restaurant comes from Nitaya’s garden in Long Beach.

Concept: Thai cooking moved one notch upscale. The dining room is simple but elegant, designed by Parry’s architect brother-in-law, with pale wooden tables and polished steel Thai rice cookers serving as lampshades. The flavors are familiar, but the food is carefully presented on large white porcelain plates.

What dish represents the restaurant: Miang kham is a plate of deep green betel leaves, a pungent herb reminiscent of shiso, topped with a crunchy mix that includes shredded coconut and peanuts, with just a touch of spice. Spooned over a little sweet sauce and folded into a wrap, it provides an explosion of flavors and textures.

Runner-up: Nam yang is slices of Thai sausage (the menu calls it salami), which have been grilled, seasoned with lime juice and served with garnishes of thick-sliced ginger, shallots and peanuts. Another good choice is the goong talai, “tiny cup shrimp,” in tart lime juice with lots of chile and garlic.

Who’s at the next table: This is mostly a local Belmont Shore crowd, both those dining in and those taking advantage of the restaurant’s to-go food. Because of that, the flavors may not be as fish-sauce funky or chile incendiary as at some other Thai restaurants, but if you ask, they can probably jack up the flavors for you.

Problematic: The restaurant is a mom-and-daughter operation. With taking to-go orders along with sit-down customers, the kitchen sometimes gets backed up.

Service: Very friendly and well-versed in the very long menu -- more than 40 dishes, plus specials.

What you’re drinking: There’s no bee-and-wine, but the restaurant does make an intriguing array of beverages that are spins on the familiar. The limeade is sweetened with slightly bitter honey, the Thai iced tea can come with fresh lime juice, and the coconut juice is tinted blue with sweet pea flower.

Info: Manaow, 3618 E. Broadway, Long Beach, (562) 433–2574, www.manaowthai.com.

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