Fatted Calf gives a butcher’s tour in ‘In the Charcuterie’

Charcuterie is one of the buzzwords of the day in the food world. Every restaurant seems to have its own “program,” making dried sausages and cured meats. Unlikely as it may seem, there have even been bestselling cookbooks on how to make them at home (not all that hard, really, as long as you’ve got plenty of temperature- and humidity-controlled space and a lot of patience).

One of the best-known of the new charcutiers is the Bay Area’s Fatted Calf, which started out selling from a truck at farmers markets and now has permanent – and very busy -- locations in Napa’s Oxbow Market and San Francisco’s Hayes Valley neighborhood. [UPDATED: This story originally said Fatted Calf had a permanent store in the Ferry Building; they sell at the Farmers Market there, but do not have a permanent store.]

So it’s probably only reasonable that when founders Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller wrote a cookbook that they should call it “In the Charcuterie” – despite the fact that that title sells the book short.

“In the Charcuterie” is much more than a guide to hams and salumi. In fact, if Boetticher and Miller had wanted to be totally accurate, they would have called it “In the Butchery” (or maybe “In the Boucherie” would sound better?).

Because in reality, “In the Charcuterie” is nothing less than a thorough overview of our growing infatuation with good meat. There are guides to choosing cuts, to parsing the differences among the heritage breeds, and to DIY butchery large and small (everything from boning a chicken breast to breaking down whole pigs, goats and lambs).

And, of course, there’s lots of good information on how to cook meat. Want to roast a chicken? It’s here. Pancetta-wrapped pork tenderloin? That looks good. And there’s big cuts that are perfect for cool weather – I’ve already cued up the brasato al midolo (Tuscan braised beef shank) on my red wine play list for some rainy Sunday.

But where the book really shines – and at least partially justifies the title -- are on the kinds of quick-cooked charcuterie items that are easily approachable by any reasonably ambitious home cook. Pâtés, terrines, confits and meat pickles.

Making your own guanciale is well and good for the serious hobbyists, but I’m already clearing space in my refrigerator for a big pot of duck rilletes.

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