Farmers market report: Sweet potatoes are in season. We have recipes
What’s in season: Native to the Americas, sweet potatoes come in hundreds of varieties, though they can generally be divided into two main groups: the pale tuber and the darker-skinned, bright-orange-fleshed root vegetables often mistakenly called “yams.” (The true yam is from a totally different plant and is typically found only in Latin or African markets.) Though sweet potatoes can be found year-round in supermarkets, the season for this holiday staple typically extends from November through early spring. Pale sweet potatoes have a thinner, lighter skin; cooked, they’re dryer and more crumbly in texture, similar to a baking potato, but with a slight nutty flavor. Darker, thick-skinned orange sweet potatoes are sweeter, with a moist interior that holds together after cooking.
What to cook: Many Thanksgiving tables are not complete without at least one representative dish, whether yams or sweet potatoes. Slowly cook sweet potatoes in a mixture of brown sugar and spices, then puree for a classic souffle topped with a sweet nut topping or marshmallows, or get creative by adding the roasted root to salads, gratins, soups and even tacos. Sweet potatoes are a favorite pie filling and also work well in bread puddings, fritters, biscuits and muffins.
What’s on the horizon: Cauliflower, generally in season from December through late spring, is showing up in colorful shades ranging from bright white to vivid yellow, soft green and deep purple.
ZEA’S SWEET POTATO BREAD PUDDING WITH RUM SAUCE
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus cooling time | Serves 12 to 16
Note: Adapted from Zea Rotisserie and Grill in New Orleans. The restaurant bakes the pudding in a 3-inch-deep casserole dish; if using a dish this depth, the baking time can increase by as much as an hour.
SWEET POTATO BREAD PUDDING
9 eggs
3 cups sugar
3 tablespoons pumpkin pie spice
3 tablespoons vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups mashed sweet potatoes (from 1 large boiled, peeled and mashed sweet potato)
1/3 pound butter, melted
1 quart milk
1 cup (5 ounces) raisins
1 pound stale French bread cubes, cut into 1/2-by-1/2-inch cubes
1 1/2 cups pecan pieces
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large glass or nonreactive bowl using a hand mixer, beat the eggs. Slowly beat in the sugar, then beat in the pumpkin pie spice and vanilla extract. Beat in the mashed sweet potatoes until thoroughly combined, then beat in the butter. Add the milk, beating until all of the ingredients are completely and thoroughly incorporated. If using a stand mixer, transfer the custard base to a large glass or nonreactive bowl.
2. Using your hands, mix the bread cubes and raisins into the custard base. Cover and refrigerate the mixture overnight.
3. Shortly before baking, heat the oven to 275 degrees. Thoroughly stir the mixture, making sure there are no white spots of un-soaked bread (it is fine if the soaked bread breaks down somewhat as you stir), and check to see that the raisins are evenly distributed.
4. Pour the mixture into a lightly buttered 13-by-9-inch baking dish. Lightly scatter and press the pecans onto the top of the pudding.
5. Bake the pudding until it has puffed and the custard is set in the center, about 70 to 90 minutes. Remove the pudding to a rack to cool for 2 hours before serving.
RUM SAUCE
2 cups light corn syrup
1/4 cup dark rum
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons vanilla extract
In a medium saucepan, heat the corn syrup, rum and vanilla to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat and, using a whisk, vigorously beat in the softened butter. Keep at room temperature until ready to serve. This makes about 3 cups sauce.
Each of 16 servings: 735 calories; 10 grams protein; 104 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 32 grams fat; 15 grams saturated fat; 161 mg cholesterol; 61 grams sugar; 272 mg sodium.
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