Farmers market report: Leeks are in season. Here are 7 recipes

What’s in season: At first glance, leeks can look like massive bunches of green onions, two or three bundled together with a rubber band or a twine bow. Part of the allium family, leeks are closely related to onions, garlic, shallots and, yes, scallions, imparting gentle but fragrant notes to a variety of dishes. The tender white to light-green parts of the stem are what’s most often used, chopped or sliced before adding to a recipe, though the thick, outer dark green leaves also lend rich flavor to stocks or soups before straining.

What to cook: Leeks will need to be cleaned before using, as dirt often gets stuck between the layers of leaves as they grow. With the root still intact, halve the leeks lengthwise, running the plant under cool water to wash away any bits of dirt or sand. Slice or chop the tender portion of the leeks, sauteing or slowly sweating them to soften their flavor. Add leeks to classic long-simmered stews or ragouts, or get creative, incorporating the vegetable in a savory panna cotta, or thinly sliced and fried for a crunchy but delicate garnish.

What’s on the horizon: It’s still a little early, but cucumbers are just beginning to turn up at select stands.

ROASTED ONE-PAN CHICKEN WITH LEEKS AND BARLEY

Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes, plus overnight chilling and resting times for the chicken | Serves 4
Note: Adapted from a recipe in Maria Speck’s cookbook “Simply Ancient Grains.”

1 lemon
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
2 1/2 teaspoons fennel seeds, divided
2 teaspoons dried thyme, divided
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
2 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt, divided
1 (4- to 4½-pound) chicken
1 to 2 cloves garlic, peeled
7 cups leeks, white and light green parts, cut crosswise into ¾-inch slices (3 to 4 stalks)
3 to 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 cups water
1 cup pearl barley, or about 3½ cups cooked
1 (3-inch) strip lemon zest (optional)
1 bay leaf (optional)
1⁄4 to ½ cup dry white wine, or chicken broth

1. Prepare the citrus rub: Finely grate the zest of the lemon and set aside. Halve the lemon crosswise, and cut one half into 2 pieces (save the other half for another use). In a small bowl, combine the lemon and orange zest, along with 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper and 2 teaspoons sea salt, and mix well with a fork. Set aside.

2. To prepare the chicken, pat it dry and trim any excess fat. Spread some citrus rub all over the skin and sprinkle inside the cavity. Using your fingers, gently loosen the skin from the breast meat and both thighs to create pockets so you can spread some of the citrus rub there as well. Place the 2 lemon pieces and the garlic inside the cavity and tie the legs with kitchen twine. Place the chicken on a plate and refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.

3. About 2 1/2 hours before roasting, remove the chicken from the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature. Heat the oven to 475 degrees and oil a 12-inch cast-iron skillet or similar-sized roasting pan.

4. In a large bowl, combine the leeks with the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons fennel seeds, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and toss to coat the vegetables. Spread the leeks across the bottom of the skillet. Rub the remaining 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil across the skin of the chicken and sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Place the chicken, breast-side up, on top of the leeks in the center of the skillet, and tuck the wing tips under the body.

5. Roast the chicken for 25 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 400 degrees and continue roasting until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165 degrees, 25 to 40 minutes, depending on the size of the bird.

6. While the chicken is roasting, cook the barley: In a heavy 2-quart saucepan, combine the water, barley, zest and bay leaf, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cover and cook until the grains are tender with a bit of a chew, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the zest and the bay leaf. Drain and set aside.

7. When the chicken is done, remove the skillet from the oven and transfer the chicken to a large cutting board, loosely cover with aluminum foil and set aside to rest for at least 15 minutes.

8. Meanwhile, add the cooked grains to the leeks in the skillet and sprinkle with the remaining 1 teaspoon thyme. Pour over the wine — just enough to nicely moisten the grains and vegetables — and stir well to combine. Return the pan to the oven for about 10 minutes, until the grains are heated through, then turn off the oven and keep the door ajar until ready to serve.

9. Carve the chicken: Remove the leek and barley mixture from the oven, stir through once, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve each portion of leeks and barley with a piece of the chicken.

Each serving: Calories 954; Protein 71 grams; Carbohydrates 64 grams; Fiber 12 grams; Fat 44 grams; Saturated fat 11 grams; Cholesterol 253 mg; Sugar 7 grams; Sodium 1,675 mg

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