Farmers market report: Carrots in a rainbow of colors are in season, and a recipe
What’s in season: Though carrots are one of those staples that can be found year-round in supermarkets, winter is the best time to find them at farmers markets, as colder weather makes for crisper and sweeter roots. Another advantage to sourcing your carrots seasonally is that you can often find them in a lot more colors than, say, orange. Look for rainbow carrots, which come in purple, scarlet, deep orange, as well as white. Recently we found White Satin, Purple Haze and Nantes varieties at McGrath Family Farms’ stand in Santa Monica.
What’s just left: Swiss chard is beginning to taper off.
What’s on the horizon: A variety of avocados are also showing up.
What to cook: Carrots are one of those vegetables that can be cooked almost any way — sauté, roast, grill, stew — or simply eaten raw. Thicker, older carrots will need to be peeled before using, but tender young carrots need only be lightly scrubbed before being added to a dish. For a simple carrot-cashew salad, toss together grated carrots with thinly sliced green onions, crystallized ginger, curry leaves and chopped fresh cilantro, flavoring the dish with fresh lime juice, hazelnut oil and chopped roasted cashews.
CARROTS, CHANTERELLES, PEACHES AND VADOUVAN
Total time: 1 hour, 45 minutes | Serves 4 to 8
Note: Adapted from a recipe by chef Ari Taymor of Alma. He makes his own vadouvan at the restaurant. Dried peaches can be found at select gourmet and farmers markets as well as online; to make dried peaches, slice the peaches and place in a dehydrator overnight.
ROASTED CARROTS
3 tablespoons butter
4 bunches baby carrots, scrubbed but skin left on
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large, heavy sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat until foamy. Add the carrots (this can be done in batches if necessary), and season with salt to taste. Very slowly cook the carrots, shaking the pan often, until the butter solids start to brown and the butter coats the carrots, and the carrots begin to color, about 45 minutes. Remove the carrots to a rimmed baking sheet and continue to roast until tender, about 30 minutes, depending on the carrots’ size.
PEACH SOUBISE
2 onions, sliced
1 tablespoon butter
1 peach, peeled and sliced
Rice wine vinegar
1. In a small, heavy pot, combine the onion and butter over low heat. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened and translucent, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in the sliced peach, cover and continue to cook just until the peach begins to release its liquid. If the mixture at any time becomes dry, add a little water to moisten.
2. Remove the mixture to a blender and purée, seasoning with 1/4 teaspoon rice wine vinegar and a generous 1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste. This makes about 1 1/2 cups soubise.
CARROTS, CHANTERELLES, PEACHES AND VADOUVAN
1 tablespoon butter
Roasted carrots
About 2 tablespoons clarified butter
16 chanterelles
Sea salt
Peach soubise
1 tablespoon vadouvan
Dried peach slices, for garnish
Nasturtium leaves, for garnish
1. In a skillet, brown the butter over medium heat. Add the carrots and toss until evenly heated and coated with butter.
2. In a separate skillet, heat the clarified butter over medium-high heat until hot. Add the chanterelles and sauté until softened, 6 to 8 minutes, tossing frequently. Remove from heat and toss in a pinch of salt.
3. Meanwhile, spoon 2 to 3 tablespoons soubise on each serving plate.
4. When the carrots are hot, add the vadouvan and toss to coat. Remove from heat and divide the carrots and mushrooms among the plates, topping each serving with dried peaches and nasturtium leaves. Serve immediately.
Each of 8 servings: calories 160; protein 2 grams; carbohydrates 15 grams; fiber 5 grams; fat 11 grams; saturated fat 7 grams; cholesterol 25 mg; sugar 8 grams; sodium 165 mg
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