Wine of the Week: 2009 Domaine Sigalas Asirtiko-Athiri

Don’t just dream about the turquoise waters of the Aegean or the sunset seen from the island of Santorini when you can drink this stunning white wine made there. Vineyards have been established on Santorini for a while — oh, about 3,500 years. Put away any outdated ideas about Greek wines tasted years ago: The wines have come a long way. Estates such as this one are producing some terrific, very contemporary wines.

This 2009 Domaine Sigalas Asirtiko Athiri made from a blend of the two white grapes from 50-year-old vines is a great example. A dry white, it has a lively acidity and mineral character coupled with a sunny ripeness. It’s as perfect for seafood in its way as a Muscadet or Chablis. Break it out for steamed clams and mussels, a seafood salad, a simple grilled fish or a whole fish roasted under salt.

— S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Santorini, Greece

Price: About $17

Style: Dry and minerally

What it goes with: Steamed shellfish, grilled or roasted fish

Where to find it: K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood (323) 464-9463, https://www.klwines.com; Mission Wines in South Pasadena (626) 403-9463, https://www.missionwines.com; Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, https://www.silverlakewine.com; Topline Wine & Spirits in Glendale (818) 500-9670, https://www.toplinewine.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles (310) 479-3731, https://www.winehouse.com