Alice Shin shows off Chego’s Ooey Gooey Fries, made of beer-battered potatoes topped with sour cream sambal, Monterey Jack and cheddar cheese, cotija, chiles, cilantro and pickled garlic. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Chego in Chinatown offers rice bowls with a gourmet twist. It attracts customers late into the night with popular entrees such as pork belly rice bowls and gooey fries. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Chego occupies a small space at a shopping plaza in Chinatown. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Manager and sous-chef Micko Ortiz prepares a wok in the kitchen of Chego in Chinatown. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
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The service window at Chego, a new restaurant in Chinatown that features chef Roy Choi’s take on L.A. soul food. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Lunch customers line up to make orders at Chego in Chinatown. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
A Squish & Destroy sandwich at Chego in Chinatown. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Chego is a friendly little Asian/soul food restaurant in Chinatown. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
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Chego’s Chubby Pork Belly is a rice bowl made of barbecued pork, pickled radishes, water spinach, Chinese broccoli, cotija, peanuts and a fried egg. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Outdoor dining at Chego in Chinatown. (Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)