Brownies, halibut, romesco sauce: our Top 10 recipes

A recipe has to travel a long road to make it into the Food section, and that’s why there’s almost always something cooking in The Times’ Test Kitchen. It might be a recipe in development being tasted and tweaked, tested and re-tested to get it right. It might be a nearly finished recipe being put through its final paces just to make sure the instructions are as clear as can be. Or it might be a finished dish being primped and powdered, made ready for its close-up moment in the photo studio.

At a conservative estimate, the Test Kitchen staff follows this process for more than 200 recipes every year. With a bar set so high, we have to believe that -- like the children of Lake Wobegon -- all the recipes are above average. But still, objective tasters all, we have to acknowledge that some are more above average than others.

Every year around holiday time a note goes out to staff members, asking for their nominations for the best recipes of the year. Thus ensues a flurry of paper-shuffling and e-mails and when everything is tallied -- almost everyone has chosen something different.

Whether this speaks to the uniform excellence of the recipes or to our diverse palates, who knows? Most likely, it’s a combination. And when you look down the list of this year’s top 10, you can easily understand how this might happen.

Want something exotic? How about Noelle Carter’s pumpkin seed stuffing spiced with Spanish chorizo. Want something homey? You’ve gotta try Donna Deane’s midnight chocolate brownie bites. In the mood for a project? The panforte from the “Tartine” cookbook will take several hours to prepare but will repay that effort with an utterly spectacular Italian fruitcake.

If, on the other hand, you just want something great for dinner, Russ Parsons’ halibut and shimeji mushrooms comes together like a breeze.

Something for everybody -- that’s what we aim for in the Food section -- and thanks to the Test Kitchen, all of it as good as we can make it.

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Panforte with candied quince

Panforte is kind of like the Italian version of fruitcake -- a dense, chewy fruitcake at that. But if all your memories are bad ones, you have to try this version from Elisabeth M. Prueitt and her husband, Chad Robertson, owners of San Francisco’s acclaimed Tartine Bakery. This recipe, from their book “Tartine,” is a bit complicated, but it makes one of the best panforte we’ve tasted -- here or in Italy. You can use any type of chopped, dried or candied fruit, in any combination, as a substitute for the fruits in the recipe as long as the total amount is about 4 1/2 cups (25 ounces).

Total time: 3 hours, 15 minutes

Servings: 32 half-inch slices

Note: Adapted from “Tartine” by Elisabeth M. Prueitt and Chad Robertson.

Candied orange zest

3 large, unblemished oranges

1 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 cups sugar

1. Remove the zest from the oranges: Run a zester from the top to the bottom of the orange, cutting the zest into thin strips (avoid the pith). Repeat with the remaining fruit. Reserve fruit for another use.

2. In a medium, heavy saucepan, cook the water and sugar over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Add the zest, lower the heat to medium-low and cook at a gentle simmer until the zest strips become tender and semi-translucent, about 30 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat and pour into a heat-proof container. Cool completely, then store the zest in the cooking syrup in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. You should have about one-half cup (3 ounces) of candied zest.

Candied quince

1 large quince

1 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 cups sugar

1. Peel the quince, slice it in half, remove the core and cut the fruit crosswise into one-fourth-inch slices.

2. In a medium, heavy saucepan, combine the water and sugar over medium heat, stirring with a spoon, until the sugar dissolves. Add the fruit, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook at a gentle simmer until the fruit is semi-translucent, about 45 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat and pour into a heat-proof container. Cool, then store the fruit in the cooking syrup in an airtight container in the refrigerator for several days. You’ll have about 1 cup (8 ounces) of fruit.

Assembly

1 recipe candied quince, strained and coarsely chopped (8 ounces)

1 recipe candied orange zest, strained and coarsely chopped (3 ounces)

2 cups dates, pitted and coarsely chopped (10 ounces)

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Zante currants (4 ounces)

2 tablespoons grated orange zest

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

1 cup lightly toasted unsalted pistachios

2 cups well-toasted hazelnuts

2 cups well-toasted almonds

2/3 cup flour

1/2 cup cocoa powder

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Freshly grated nutmeg from 1 1/2 nutmegs

3/4 teaspoon ground coriander

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3/4 teaspoon ground cloves

3/4 cup honey

1 1/3 cups granulated sugar

1/4 cup powdered sugar

1. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Butter a 10-inch springform pan with 2- or 3-inch sides, line with parchment paper, and butter the parchment, making sure to butter the sides of the pan well.

2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the candied quince and orange zest, dates, currants, orange and lemon zest, and all the nuts. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander, pepper and cloves over the fruits and nuts. Mix well. Set aside.

3. In a deep, heavy saucepan, combine the honey and granulated sugar over medium-high heat. Stir gently with a wooden spoon from time to time to make sure no sugar is sticking to the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil and cook until the mixture registers 250 degrees on a thermometer, about 3 minutes. The mixture will be frothy and boiling rapidly.

4. Remove from the heat and immediately pour over the fruit-and-flour mixture in the bowl. Stir with a wooden spoon to incorporate the syrup thoroughly with the other ingredients. The mixture may seem dry at first, but it will come together once it is well mixed. (If you have rubber gloves, it is easier to mix with your hands than with a spoon.) Work quickly at this point; the longer the mixture sits, the firmer it becomes.

5. Transfer the mixture to the prepared springform pan and smooth the top with a rubber spatula dipped in water. Bake until the top is slightly puffed and looks like a brownie, about 1 hour. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Run a knife around the edge to loosen and turn out of the pan and cool completely.

6. With a fine-mesh sieve, sift the powdered sugar over the top, bottom and sides of the panforte. Lightly tap it over the counter to shake off excess sugar. It will keep, well wrapped, in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks, or indefinitely in the refrigerator. To serve, slice into quarter- to half-inch slices.

Each of 32 (half-inch) slices: 330 calories; 6 grams protein; 56 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 12 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 4 mg. sodium.

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Roasted potato salad

To put it mildly, Test Kitchen manager Noelle Carter has a thing for bacon. This winter, in fact, she wrote a story confessing that one of her favorite Christmas gifts ever was a 6-pound variety pack of the stuff. “Now if that’s not true love, I don’t know what is,” she wrote. The simple fact is bacon does make almost everything taste better, a point Carter pushed to the maximum in the same story with a coffeecake studded with apples and bacon. That was good, but this potato salad was even better. This is far from a one-note recipe. Roasting the potatoes concentrates their earthy flavor, and binding them and the bacon together with mayonnaise spiked with the sharp flavors of capers and red onion is the perfect contrast.

Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Servings: 8 to 10

4 pounds new or fingerling potatoes, cleaned and halved lengthwise

3/4 teaspoon chopped garlic

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound thick-cut bacon

1 cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons whole grain mustard, or to taste

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, or to taste

1/2 red onion, trimmed and sliced lengthwise into 1/8-inch slices

1/4 cup capers

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, toss the potatoes with the garlic, olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper. Place the potatoes in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast the potatoes until golden brown and tender, about 1 hour, tossing occasionally. Remove and cool.

2. While the potatoes are roasting, cut the bacon crosswise into one-fourth-inch pieces. Cook the bacon in a large saute pan over medium heat until the fat is rendered and the bacon is crisp, about 15 minutes. Stir frequently, watching that the bacon does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Remove from heat and drain the bacon on a paper towel-lined plate, reserving the grease for another use.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, mustard and red wine vinegar. Season with one-half teaspoon salt and several grinds of black pepper. Taste and adjust mustard, vinegar and seasoning if desired.

4. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes and bacon with the sliced onion. Gently stir in enough dressing to coat, then stir in the capers. Taste and adjust seasoning if desired.

5. Cover and refrigerate the salad for at least 2 hours to allow the flavors to develop. The salad will keep for 3 days, refrigerated. Allow the salad to warm slightly at room temperature before serving.

Each of 10 servings: 420 calories; 11 grams protein; 34 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 28 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 29 mg. cholesterol; 696 mg. sodium

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Midnight chocolate brownie bites

Former Test Kitchen director Donna Deane, who retired this year, was one of the best bakers we’ve ever known. Pies with flaky crusts, cakes with delicate crumb, she could do it all. Few recipes have better demonstrated that than these fabulous chocolate brownies, which she developed for a story about classic summer picnic food. Start with a deliciously dense combination of bittersweet chocolate, dark cocoa and mini chocolate chips, and add a bright flash of citrus from orange liqueur and peel. Simply amazing, whether you eat them indoors or out.

Total time: 1 hour

Servings: Makes 25 brownies

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter plus more to butter the dish

1/2 pound bittersweet chocolate

3/4 cup packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 tablespoon Grand Marnier

1 1/2 teaspoons lightly packed grated orange peel

2 eggs

1/4 cup best-quality cocoa

1/4 cup flour

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup mini chocolate chips

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line an 8-inch-square baking dish with aluminum foil, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Lightly butter the bottom and sides of the foil.

2. Melt the butter and bittersweet chocolate in a medium metal bowl set over simmering water until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the brown sugar until dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla and Grand Marnier, then the grated orange peel.

3. Whisk in the eggs, one at a time, until completely blended and the mixture is shiny and smooth; the mixture will be thickened at this point.

4. Sift together the cocoa, flour and salt, then stir the flour mixture into the batter until blended. Fold in the mini chocolate chips.

5. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until puffed and almost set. Do not overbake. Cool while still in the pan, on a wire rack.

6. Lift the brownies out of the pan, using the foil as a handle, and invert the brownies onto the cooling rack. Gently peel off the foil, then return the brownies to their original position. Cool completely. Cut into 25 squares, trimming off the edges if desired.

Each serving: 134 calories; 2 grams protein; 15 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 9 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 27 mg. cholesterol; 21 mg. sodium.

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Dandelion green and Christmas lima bean tacos

There are few combinations in cooking more natural and flexible than beans and greens. That’s what staff writer Amy Scattergood found when exploring twists on these two fundamental ingredients. These inventive tacos were our favorites of several very good dishes she came up with. The beans are earthy and rich; the greens are bitter with a slight bite. On top of that, the combination is prettier than heck -- the dark green of the wilted leaves against the speckled, almost chocolate brown of the beans. If you can’t find Christmas limas, you can substitute regular limas or even other beans such as pinto or Great Northern (though they won’t be nearly as pretty).

Total time: 2 hours, 10 minutes

Servings: 1 1/2 dozen tacos

Note: Christmas limas are available at Surfas, at the Venice and Hollywood farmers markets from Suncoast Farms and online at www.ranchogordo.com or www.purcellmountainfarms .com. Dandelion greens are available at farmers markets and well-stocked supermarkets. Both the beans and salsa can be made the day before.

3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 large onion, finely chopped (a generous cup)

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups dried Christmas lima beans

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Kosher salt

4 tomatillos, finely chopped (about 1 3/4 cups)

1/2 large red onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

2 jalapenos, minced

1 large bunch cilantro, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)

Juice of 2 limes, plus wedges for garnish

2 bunches dandelion greens, cleaned and roughly chopped, about 8 cups

18 corn tortillas

1. In a 3-quart soup pot or cast-iron casserole (with a lid that fits), heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the olive oil and cook the onion and garlic over medium-low heat until softened, about 10 minutes.

2. After the vegetables are soft, add the dried beans and water to cover, about 3 cups. Bring to a simmer over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and cover the pot with the lid, stirring occasionally. After 45 minutes, add the black pepper, 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt and additional water if necessary to keep the beans covered. Cover and continue to cook until the beans are soft, again stirring occasionally, another 45 minutes to 1 hour. When the beans are tender, remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. This makes about 6 cups cooked beans.

3. While the beans are cooking, make the salsa verde. In a medium bowl, combine the chopped tomatillos, red onion, jalapenos, cilantro, 1 tablespoon olive oil, a pinch of kosher salt and the juice of 2 limes. Stir to combine and reserve. This makes about 2 cups salsa.

4. Place the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Add the chopped dandelion greens to the pan with a pinch of salt and saute, stirring frequently, until the greens are wilted, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

5. Heat the tortillas over an open flame or in a griddle or saute pan on high heat, turning them over so that both sides are hot and lightly toasted. Assemble the tacos by arranging the grilled tortillas on individual plates or on a platter. Place about one-third cup of beans onto each tortilla, top with about one-fourth cup wilted greens and salsa verde to taste. Squeeze a wedge of lime over each taco (or serve with lime wedges) and serve immediately.

Each taco: 176 calories; 7 grams protein; 30 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams fiber; 4 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 96 mg. sodium.

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Halibut and shimeji baked in parchment

Some exotic mushrooms may be becoming commonplace. A San Diego company is opening a plant this spring that will more than triple the total U.S. output of king trumpet, shimeji and maitake mushrooms within just a couple of years. Just as portobellos came out of nowhere to become supermarket staples in the 1990s, so might these flavorful Japanese mushrooms find their own place on the American table. This recipe by Food editor Russ Parsons is a perfect way to show off the delicate flavor and graceful shape of the shimeji. And it couldn’t be simpler to make. Cook the mushrooms, wrap them in a parchment-paper pouch with halibut and bake -- that’s all there is to it. Even better, you can prepare the packets in advance and refrigerate them until you’re ready to cook. If you don’t have parchment, you can use aluminum foil.

Total time: 40 minutes

Servings: 6 to 8

Note: Shimeji mushrooms are generally available at Asian markets.

Canola or vegetable oil

1/2 pound brown or white shimeji mushrooms, tough base removed (leave stems on), and broken into sections

Salt

2 teaspoons minced shallots

1 teaspoon minced tarragon

1/4 cup white wine

Freshly ground black pepper

2 (1-pound) halibut steaks

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut 2 (15-inch-square) pieces of parchment paper or aluminum foil and lightly oil one side.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large nonstick skillet over high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the mushrooms, three-fourths teaspoon salt and cook, tossing frequently, until the mushrooms start to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. They’ll begin to sizzle and shine as they release their moisture.

3. Add the shallots, tarragon and white wine, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the wine evaporates, about 2 minutes. The mushrooms should be tender and lightly browned in places. Season with just a dash of black pepper.

4. Lightly season each halibut steak with three-eighths teaspoon salt and a few grindings of pepper. Place a steak in the center of each piece of parchment paper and spoon the mushrooms evenly over the steaks. Crinkle together the edges of the parchment paper to make an airtight packet, with some room left for the packet to expand. Place the packets on a baking sheet. (The recipe can be made to this point several hours in advance and refrigerated until ready to cook.)

5. Bake the packets until they puff slightly, 25 to 30 minutes (you may need to unwrap the packets a little to make sure the halibut is firm and opaque). Remove from the oven and place the packets, still sealed, on a platter. To serve, open the packets and divide the halibut and mushrooms onto plates.

Each of 8 servings: 152 calories; 25 grams protein; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 4 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 36 mg. cholesterol; 390 mg. sodium.

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Pumpkin seed stuffing with chorizo

There’s more to do with pumpkin than put it in a pie, Test Kitchen manager Noelle Carter found during the Thanksgiving holidays. The rich flavors of this stuffing -- nutty seeds, sweet corn and corn bread, and smoky, spicy Spanish chorizo -- make this an amazing side dish at any time of year, served with or without turkey. Pumpkin seed oil can be found at well-stocked supermarkets and gourmet cooking stores. Spanish chorizo can be found at many markets, including La Espanola Meats in Harbor City, Spain Restaurant in Los Angeles and Surfas in Culver City. For a little extra heat, roast two to four jalapenos with the poblanos, then clean, stem, seed and chop them before adding to the stuffing.

Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes

Servings: 6 to 8

10 cups cubed corn bread, cut into 1-inch pieces

1/4 cup pumpkin seed oil, divided

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1 1/4 teaspoons salt, divided

Freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 cups shelled pumpkin seeds

4 poblano chiles

6 tablespoons ( 3/4 stick) butter, divided

2 tablespoons olive oil

3/4 pound Spanish chorizo, cut crosswise into 1/8-inch slices

1 1/2 cups corn, from about 2 medium corn cobs

2 onions, cut into 1/2 -inch dice

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1/3 cup dry white wine

3/4 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika

2 to 3 cups chicken broth

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

2. In a large bowl, gently toss the corn bread with 3 tablespoons pumpkin seed oil, the thyme, oregano, one-half teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper. Spread the cubes in a single layer on a foil-lined baking sheet and toast for 20 to 25 minutes, until lightly golden, shaking the pan every 5 minutes. Remove from heat and cool, then place in a large bowl.

3. In a medium bowl, toss the pumpkin seeds with the remaining tablespoon pumpkin seed oil, one-fourth teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper. Place the seeds on a foil-lined sheet and toast until fragrant, puffed and lightly golden, 10 minutes. Remove and cool, then add to the corn bread.

4. Meanwhile, roast the chiles on the stove directly over a hot burner until charred on all sides, about 5 minutes. Set aside in a sealed paper bag until cool enough to peel. Peel the charred skin (do not rinse as this will remove flavor). Halve the chiles lengthwise, stem and seed. Cut crosswise into one-eighth inch strips, then add them to the corn bread.

5. Heat a large heavy-bottom skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter, the olive oil and chorizo and cook until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Remove the chorizo with a slotted spoon, leaving the fat in the pan, and add the chorizo to the stuffing mixture.

6. Stir the corn and onions into the pan and season with one-fourth teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn is crisp-tender and the onions are soft and translucent, 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until aromatic, 30 seconds. Stir in the white wine and cook, scraping any bits from the pan, until the wine has almost evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Cool slightly, then add to the stuffing mixture.

7. Gently toss in the cumin and paprika, and add one-fourth teaspoon salt, or to taste. Melt the remaining butter and drizzle over the stuffing. Drizzle 2 cups chicken broth over the stuffing and toss. Add more broth as desired.

8. Place the stuffing in a buttered, 13-by-9-inch baking dish and place in the oven. Cover and bake for 20 minutes, then remove the cover and bake for 20 to 25 minutes more, until the top is lightly toasted. Remove and serve.

Each of 8 servings: 772 calories; 25 grams protein; 49 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams fiber; 55 grams fat; 18 grams saturated fat; 89 mg. cholesterol; 1,491 mg. sodium.

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Maple bacon biscuits

Breakfast is making a comeback in Southern California restaurants -- even in places you might not expect it. Such as at hip Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica, where pastry chef Zoe Nathan made these amazing biscuits (see accompanying story). Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila called them “gloriously crumbly” and no wonder -- they’re made with a full pound of bacon and half a pound of butter.

Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Servings: Makes 2 dozen biscuits

1 pound bacon, cut into 1/2 -inch pieces

3 1/2 cups flour

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter, cut into 1/2 -inch cubes

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons maple syrup, divided

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk

1 egg yolk

1 egg

1 tablespoon heavy cream

Fleur de sel

1. In a medium frying pan, cook the bacon over medium heat until cooked but not crispy, 10 to 12 minutes, stirring frequently. Set aside on a paper towel-lined plate.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

3. Using a pastry cutter or fork, cut in the diced butter, until it resembles small peas. Stir in the bacon, then one-fourth cup plus 2 tablespoons of maple syrup and the buttermilk until the dough just comes together (it will still be clumpy). Be careful not to overwork the dough.

4. On a lightly floured surface, gently press or roll the dough to 1-inch thickness. Cut the biscuits using a 2-inch round cutter; you should have 24 biscuits. Place 12 biscuits (2 inches apart) on each of two parchment-lined baking sheets. Freeze the trays just until the biscuits are chilled, about 10 minutes.

5. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. While the biscuits are chilling, prepare the egg wash: In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, egg and cream. Brush the chilled biscuits with egg wash and top each with a pinch of fleur de sel.

6. Bake the biscuits until they just begin to brown, about 25 minutes (you should easily be able to pick up the biscuits off the tray). Remove the tray from the oven. Quickly drizzle 1 teaspoon of the remaining maple syrup over each biscuit, then place the tray back in the oven for 3 minutes more. Serve while warm.

Each serving: 214 calories; 5 grams protein; 24 grams carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 11 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 46 mg. cholesterol; 607 mg. sodium.

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Naked ribs

Some people like barbecue for the sauce; purists like it for the pork. If you’re one of the latter, you have to try these ribs, developed by Food editor Russ Parsons. You don’t need a smoker to make them -- a good old-fashioned kettle grill will work fine. The trick is to concentrate the heat along one side of the grill, so the ribs can slowly smoke on the cool side. Note also that the dry rub spicing mixture makes enough to repeat this recipe three or four times -- in other words, about a week’s worth.

Total time: 2 hours, plus marinating time

Servings: 6 to 8

1/3 cup mild finely ground dried chile

1/2 cup kosher salt

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons garlic powder

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 tablespoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

2 (4-pound) racks pork spareribs

1. In a jar, combine the chile, salt, sugar, garlic powder, onion powder, pepper, cumin and coriander, crushing any chunks of brown sugar. Cover tightly and shake well to combine thoroughly.

2. Trim the ribs, cutting away any excess fat pieces and loose ends without bones. Lay the ribs flat with the bony underside facing up. If you prefer, remove the flap of meat that covers part of one side. Use a small knife or skewer to poke through the thin, tough membrane that covers the rib bones, lifting a corner of it. Use a clean kitchen cloth to get a good grip and gently but firmly pull the membrane away from the ribs. It will come up in sheets; you may have to repeat the process a couple of times to get it all.

3. Sprinkle both sides of the ribs with the dry rub mixture, using about 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons per side. Rub to distribute evenly, and then seal tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate 1 hour to overnight.

4. Soak 3 cups of hickory chips in enough water to cover generously. Start the coals in a chimney and when they are lightly coated with gray ash, about 20 minutes, empty them into the grill, arranging them in a gentle slope against one side.

5. When those coals have cooled slightly, about 20 minutes, add two-thirds of the wood chips, replace the grill rack and brush it with oil. Arrange the rib rack well away from the heat and cover tightly so that the lid’s vent holes are over the ribs, opposite the flame. Smoke, turning every 30 minutes or so, until the meat begins to pull away from the rib tips and is so tender that a center bone can almost be pulled loose, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. After about an hour, you’ll need to replenish the smoke, adding the remaining wood chips on top of the coals.

6. Remove the racks from the fire and wrap them tightly in aluminum foil. Set aside for 30 minutes to 1 hour to rest. Serve at room temperature, or reheat briefly on the grill, off the fire, before serving.

Each serving: 851 calories; 62 grams protein; 2 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 64 grams fat; 24 grams saturated fat; 255 mg. cholesterol; 1,337 mg. sodium.

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Spaghetti with tuna and cherry tomatoes

Canned tuna is so commonplace that you might think it’s crazy to make your own. OK, so call this tuna “conserved” instead. It’s not just a change of names. Following Food editor Russ Parsons’ recipe, take chunks of good albacore tuna and slowly poach it in warm, flavored olive oil and you’ve got a fish that’s as close to canned tuna as a Bentley is to a Kia. It’s incredibly easy to make, and when you’re done, you can use it in all kinds of dishes, from a salad with white beans and arugula to this spicy pasta with cherry tomatoes.

Total time: 55 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6 as a main course, 6 to 8 as a pasta course

Conserved tuna

1 pound fresh tuna (albacore or yellowfin), cut 1 to 2 inches thick

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons sliced garlic

Freshly ground black pepper

1 bay leaf

1 piece lemon peel (about 3/4 inch by 2 inches)

1 cup olive oil, plus more if necessary

1. Trim any skin, bones or dark blood spots from the tuna and discard. Cut the tuna into large cubes (at least 1 inch) and place them in a 1-quart saucepan. Add the salt, red pepper flakes, garlic and a pinch of black pepper and stir gently until evenly mixed. Arrange the tuna snugly in the pan so you won’t need to use too much additional oil. Add the bay leaf and lemon peel and pour over enough olive oil to just barely cover the fish. It will be about 1 cup, though you may need a little more for topping off.

2. Place the saucepan over very low heat and cook until the tuna just begins to flake, about 15 minutes. The oil may get hot enough that a few bubbles rise from the bottom, but it should not simmer. The temperature shouldn’t exceed 160 degrees.

3. Cool the tuna to room temperature in the oil before transferring to a container for storage in the refrigerator. If you’re going to use the tuna the same day, refrigeration is not necessary. The tuna will keep, tightly sealed and refrigerated, for at least a week, but not more than 10 days. Warm to room temperature before using. (You will have more than you need for this recipe).

Spaghetti and assembly

Salt

1 pound spaghetti

1/2 pound conserved tuna, plus 2 tablespoons of its oil, at room temperature

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

4 whole, small, dried red chiles (such as chile de arbol)

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed

1 pound cherry tomatoes, cut in half (about 2 cups)

4 anchovy fillets, chopped

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar, or to taste

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil

1. Bring a large pot of liberally salted water to a rolling boil and add the spaghetti. Meanwhile, chop the tuna (you should have about 1 cup); set aside.

2. Heat the fresh olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add the garlic, chiles and fennel. Saute, stirring frequently, until the garlic is lightly golden and the spices are fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Add the cherry tomatoes and anchovies and cook for a minute to break down the anchovies. Add the tuna and use a wooden spoon to break up the tuna and tomatoes into a chunky mixture. Add the reserved tuna oil, red wine vinegar and salt to taste. The flavor should be sweet, fragrant and bright. Keep over low heat until pasta is done.

4. When the spaghetti is done, drain it, reserving about 1 cup of the cooking water, and add the noodles to the skillet. Turn the heat to high, add the reserved pasta cooking water and cook, tossing the noodles to coat lightly with the sauce. Toss in the basil, season to taste with salt and serve immediately.

Each of 6 servings: 494 calories; 21 grams protein; 62 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 18 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 19 mg. cholesterol; 317 mg. sodium.

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Romesco with grilled bread, spring onions and shrimp

Is romesco becoming the new pesto? Just as our obsession with Italian cooking turned that Ligurian sauce of basil, nuts and olive oil into a near-staple, the increasing interest in Spanish cooking is doing the same for romesco, essentially peppers, nuts and tomatoes ground together until they’re nearly smooth. If so, it couldn’t happen to a nicer sauce. “Earthy, toothsome, definitely habit-forming, romesco is rough magic in a bowl,” wrote staff writer Amy Scattergood when she developed this recipe. One of the most traditional uses is in the classic Catalan dish calcotada: grilled bread topped with grilled spring onions and grilled shrimp.

Total time: 45 minutes

Servings: 4 to 8

1 pound tail-on large shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 bunches large spring onions, bulbs trimmed of their roots and greens attached

Best-quality olive oil, preferably Spanish

Sea salt

1 loaf pain rustique or country white bread, sliced 3/4 -inch thick on the diagonal

Romesco sauce

1. Heat a grill over medium heat. Toss the shrimp and the onions with a little olive oil and a sprinkling of salt; brush the bread with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.

2. Grill the onions until the bulbs are tender and with good grill marks and the green parts are somewhat charred, several minutes. Rotate the onions occasionally with tongs for even grilling. Set aside.

3. Clean the surface of the grill and cook the shrimp next, rotating for even grilling just until the flesh is opaque and firm.

4. Clean the surface of the grill and grill the bread, rotating for even grilling. Serve the warm bread, shrimp and onions on a platter with a large bowl of romesco sauce in the center for dipping.

Each of 8 servings: 433 calories; 17 grams protein; 37 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 25 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 84 mg. cholesterol; 748 mg. sodium.

Basic romesco sauce

Total time: 45 minutes

Servings: Makes about 2 cups

Note: Nora peppers are available from Spanish importers such as La Espanola in Harbor City (laespanola meats.com) and La Tienda (tienda.com), as well as amazon.com. You can substitute Cascabels for the Nora peppers (they’re hotter than Noras). Marcona almonds are widely available; if using salted Marconas, omit the salt from the recipe or add to taste.

2 ounces Nora peppers (about 8 to 10 peppers)

1/4 cup hazelnuts

1/4 cup Marcona almonds

4 Roma tomatoes

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons best-quality olive oil, divided

1 ounce good-quality country white bread, sliced, crusts removed

3 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon sweet paprika (preferably Spanish)

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar (preferably Jerez)

1. Place a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the oven to 375 degrees. Cover the peppers with boiling water and allow to soften for at least 30 minutes, then stem, seed and reserve.

2. While the peppers are softening, toast the nuts separately until golden and aromatic, 8 to 10 minutes. If the hazelnuts have skins, remove their skins by rolling them in a kitchen towel once they are cool. Set the nuts aside and raise the oven temperature to broil.

3. Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and place them, skin side up, on a foil-lined baking sheet. Brush 1 tablespoon of oil over the tomatoes and broil the tomatoes until the skins begin to darken and crack, about 5 minutes. Cool on their tray, then peel, core and set aside.

4. In a skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of oil and fry the bread until golden brown. Cool and set aside.

5. In a food processor, coarsely chop the garlic, salt, fried bread and nuts. Add the peppers, tomatoes, paprika and vinegar and process to a rough paste. Slowly pour in the remaining olive oil in a steady stream and process until just combined.

Each tablespoon: 40 calories; 1 gram protein; 1 gram carbohydrate; 0 fiber; 4 grams fat; 0 saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 78 mg. sodium.

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latimes.com/dailydish

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