Flavor, by the spoon or bite

Peaking

Persimmons: There are two main families of persimmons and though they may share color and flavor, in the most important ways they couldn’t be more different. Hachiya persimmons, the large acorn-shaped ones shown here, need to be softened to an almost mousse-like texture before they are ready to eat. Approached too early, they are astringent and unpleasant, but when they are soft enough to spoon, they are luscious. Fuyu persimmons, which are small and squat, will never soften no matter how long you wait. They should be eaten crisp, and though their flavor will never be quite as unctuously sweet as a Hachiya, it is remarkably flexible.

The best way to serve Hachiyas is to quarter them lengthwise, down to their green calyx, and open out the quarters like a flower, then spoon a little whipped cream into the center (Maybe bourbon-scented? Maybe with some toasted walnuts? Maybe both?). Fuyus are brilliant simply sliced and squirted with lime juice. Or you can do what Wilshire chef Christopher Blobaum did the other day: Wrap them in a slice of prosciutto and bake them just until the ham is crisp, then dust them with ground pistachios.

Various vendors, $1 per pound.

Lima beans: Childhood trauma from eating canned lima beans? Get over it. There are few vegetables as delicious as a properly cooked, fresh lima bean, and there are few easier to prepare. You’ll find them at the market either still in their pods -- they look like very short, very wide Romano beans -- or already shelled. Combine the beans with barely enough water to cover them, some minced green onion and a piece of bacon or ham. Bring to a simmer and cook, covered, just until the beans are tender. Remove the lid and let the water evaporate and then add a final bath of cream: Cook just long enough to let the cream thicken and the beans turn buttery.

McGrath Family Farms, $4.75 for half a pound shelled.

Walnuts: They seem easy to overlook -- how special can a nut be? -- but every fall I look forward to the new crop of walnuts. Get them now, before the holidays, when the meat is sweet and slightly creamy and they haven’t had a chance to develop any sour rancidity. The shells will be fragile enough to crack with your hands. A basket of Bartlett pears, a plate of cheese and a mound of walnuts are as good a dessert as anyone can hope for.

Various vendors, $1 per pound.

[email protected]