Tuna that practically leaps into the can

The tiny town of Trinidad in Northern California sits at the top of a rocky point. As you wind down the road to a small fishing harbor, you might be so dazzled by the view that you miss Katy’s Smokehouse, were it not for the small sign reading “Tuna, as good as home-canned.”

The tuna is probably not what you’re used to. It’s very fresh, caught locally. And it’s canned with no added water or oil. The result after the high heat of the canning process is a round filet of albacore that has a flavor and texture closer to roasted than poached. While it lacks the suave texture of the best oil-packed ventresca tuna from Italy or Spain, it has a clean, sweet appeal. And at $4.99 for almost a half-pound, it’s considerably cheaper. Also check out Katy’s smoked fish, all prepared on site.

Katy’s Smokehouse canned tuna, 7.35 ounces for $4.99. (707) 677-0151, or order online at www.katyssmokehouse.com.