Caviar

Surprise extras

At the Golden Truffle, Alan Greeley serves three caviars by the ounce: Iranian osetra, Iranian sevruga and Sterling brand caviar raised in California. Accompaniments vary. The caviar might come with a jalapeno potato latke, rosti potatoes or warm potato chips. The rosti potatoes are flavored with onion, chives and dill before being topped with creme fraiche, caviar and a squeeze of lemon. (Caviar, $75 an ounce.)

The Golden Truffle, 1767 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa, (949) 645-9858.

Caviar one-stop

Petrossian sells all the famous Caspian caviars (including its super-premium Imperial grades) plus an American white sturgeon caviar (Transmontanous) and Petrossian’s own Baerii brand, from Siberian sturgeon raised in France. You can buy caviar to go or sample seven grams each of either Royal or Imperial grade sevruga, osetra and beluga served in a lovely silver tripod dish, accompanied by creme fraiche and blini. (Caviar, 30 grams, $8 to $105; assiette royale, $35; assiette imperiale, $45.)

Petrossian, 321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 271-6300.

An alternative

Instead of Russian caviar, Water Grill chef Michael Cimarusti serves Baerii, with big berries and a distinctive lightly salted taste, and California’s rich, buttery Transmontanous. They’re presented in traditional style, in the tins they came in, set in a silver dish full of ice and accompanied by creme fraiche, red onions, minced eggs, chives and brioche toasts.(Caviar, 30 grams, $65.)

Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 891-0900.

-- Jessica Strand