House of Sander Will Live on, but Without Its Namesake Designer

Fashion house mergers have been making news lately as one house buys another and promises that everything will stay the same. It doesn’t always turn out that way.

In August, the Prada Group bought a 75% stake in the house of Jil Sander. But Sander, the queen of minimal designs, was reportedly unhappy with the merger, and this week she resigned as chairwoman of her company. The fall 2000 women’s collection in Milan next month will reportedly be her last show with the line, although it is expected to continue.

The German designer is known for her luxurious tailored men’s and women’s clothing, sold at Barneys New York and Jil Sander boutiques, including sites in Costa Mesa and San Francisco. The clothes are pricey (as high as $2,200 for a woman’s suit), and appeal to those who want to be avant-garde but presentable in the boardroom. Regarding Sander’s departure, both sides are keeping mum for now.

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Tag, You’re It: Every Academy Award show has an “it” girl--the best actress nominee whom every fashion designer in the world wants to dress on Oscar night. Last year, “it” was Gwyneth Paltrow, who won best actress for “Shakespeare in Love.” We think this year’s “it” will be Hilary Swank, winner of the Golden Globe best actress award for “Boys Don’t Cry.” She’s fresh, young and beautiful, and she hasn’t been overexposed. And, the public doesn’t quite know what she looks like out of the jeans and a T-shirt she wore for the movie. But she must be a fashion fan. Last week, Women’s Wear Daily reported that Swank sat front and center at the recent Valentino couture show in Paris.

Other contenders for the “most avidly courted by a fashion designer” category: Angelina Jolie (bets are on Randolph Duke), Winona Ryder (vintage couture), Annette Bening (Armani) and the always refreshing Courtney Love (could wear anybody).

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More as the Oscar Fashion World Turns: An Estee Lauder representative was in town this week to set up a day spa for Oscar attendees who will stay at the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills. Estee Lauder, which has a day spa at Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills, will offer its usual services, but in-room and in secret. So no news on who’s skedded for a hot rock pedicure . . . yet.

The rep also brought some new products, including a perfume stick for Lauder fragrances Beautiful, Pleasures, Dazzling Gold and Dazzling Silver. The perfumes, $19.50 each, look like twist-out lipsticks.

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An Eye on the Future: Chanel will introduce a line of sunglasses and prescription eyewear in boutiques and department stores next month and in opticians’ offices this summer. This is the first time the company has licensed a product line to another company. In the past, Chanel has offered a few sunglasses a year, manufactured by eyeglass company Luxottica. “Chanel has always had a heritage of never licensing because keeping control of the design and quality process has always been paramount,” said Barbara Cirkva, senior vice president of fashion at the company. Luxottica, she said, has proved itself a qualified partner.

The glasses, $165 to $220, are made with melanin lenses to protect against UV and other harmful rays.