WINE OF THE WEEK : 1998 Morgadio Albarino Rias Baixas, Spain

(About $18)

Galicia’s aromatic Albarino grape makes one of the most intriguing white wines in all of Spain. Despite 1998’s rainy vintage, the Morgadio estate managed to make an exemplary Albarino, which shows off all the great qualities of this difficult grape. Rich and olive-y, it has a beautiful nose of peaches and sea salt. The taste is round and ripe, with a lovely, long finish. Serve it as an aperitif or with seafood, which is what Galicia, in that corner of Spain just north of Portugal, is known for.

Available at Beverly Glen Market Place, Bel-Air, (310) 475-0829; Hi-Time Wine Cellars, Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Wally’s, West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606; and Woodland Hills Wine Co., Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, Henry Wine Group, (800) 669-9429.