Playing With Your Food

We live in an age of unquenchable desire for amusement, a quest reflected by the rise of a turn-of-the-millenium phenomenon we call the Entertainment Center.

These sprawling, futuristic complexes offer much more than the ‘90s version of dinner and a movie; in fact, the possibilities for diversion at these places are practically endless.

These centers offer a broad bandwidth of restaurants, a multiplex cinema, an eye-bending maze of quirky shops and parking lots big enough for a space shuttle landing. They also have live music, surrealistic lighting and the latest in virtual-reality video games.

Both the brand new Block in Orange and the slightly older Irvine Spectrum are attracting overflow crowds on weekends.

More such centers are probably on the way, according to Richard Martin, managing editor of Nation’s Restaurant News.

“Declining retail sales have forced developers into something other than big department stores to anchor new malls,” Martin said.

Such faux villages are being centered around mega-movie-houses. Instead of traditional retail options, entertainment seekers browse through stores that sell unisex apparel from labels such as No Fear, electronic-toy outlets such as Glow! and mega-media-houses such as Borders as well as restaurants, food courts and snack stands serving eats from anywhere on the planet.

The focus at these places is on food and entertainment or food as entertainment, with dining as a backdrop for restaurants with video arcades or wild themes. Here’s a guide to dining and snacking at the Block and the Irvine Spectrum. Dollar signs indicate the price of a meal for one, without beverages.

$: less than $10.

$$: up to $20.

$$$: up to $30.

$$$$: more than $30.

THE BLOCK

Six main restaurants are in one area of the Orange mall at the City Drive where the Santa Ana Freeway (I-5), the Garden Grove Freeway (Hwy. 22) and the Orange Freeway (Hwy. 57) meet. Two other large restaurants, Dave & Buster’s and Gameworks, are both novel dining concepts in the extreme. (See this section for a description of Gameworks, the Irvine Spectrum section for a description of Dave & Buster’s.)

Alcatraz Brewing Co.

Imagine a microbrewery with a model of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge in the center of the dining room. Now think dark stout, brick-oven pizzas and main courses big enough to share. Quality and a catchy Alcatraz theme set this place ahead of many other brewpub restaurants. $$-$$$ (714) 939-8686.

Cafe Tu Tu Tango

This exuberantly designed restaurant is filled with original art created on the premises. Part of the show is live artists plying their trade, but there is also dancing, an in-house psychic and high energy galore. Look for a menu of Spanish tapas, spicy fritters and a thicket of small plates from all over the globe. Service is fast, and the food is reasonably priced and original. $$-$$$ (714) 769-2222.

Corner Bakery

The hugely popular Corner Bakery, a quickly expanding chain, deserves credit as a casual cafeteria that serves remarkably good food. Soups and salads are well conceived. Try the spicy peanut soup, the multi-textured red currant almond chicken salad and the terrific Caesar salad. Things from the ovens include great flatbreads and a variety of sumptuous desserts. $$ (714) 939-8410.

Left at Albuquerque

The theme in this handsomely decorated room is the American Southwest. Dishes come from a display kitchen with a mesquite grill. Appetizers include ancho tequila lime prawns and red pepper polenta. Entrees include traditional Mexican dishes and meats such as smoky, grilled pork chops. The bar has a huge selection of boutique tequilas, perfect for the terminally hip barfly. $$ (714) 769-4300.

Market Broiler

This is no fancied-up Red Lobster; it’s more like a designer fish market with a kitchen. Walking in, you spot a giant glass case filled with fresh seafood. The extensive menu lists the seafood on the back page, about two dozen varieties prepared in a variety of imaginative ways. $$ (714) 769-3474.

Wolfgang Puck Grand Cafe

The eponymous Austrian chef has become a household name, but his new venture is a departure. Here he employs an express dining area, a mini-mart and a sit-down restaurant. The menu takes chances. Best bets are anything from the wood-burning pizza oven, rotisserie meats and desserts. The outrageous decor with mosaic tile in primary colors and pizza wedge designs comes from Puck’s wife, Barbara Lazaroff. $$$ (714) 634-9653.

MORE AT THE BLOCK

Gameworks

You can bowl, shoot hoops or slay a video dinosaur in this high-octane grill, primarily constructed for big kids. The concept is from DreamWorks, Sega and Universal Studios, and appointments are gloriously high-tech. Eating may be beside the point, but the dishes are mostly Americana, such as Philly cheese steak, or sophisticated kid food such as French fries with Thai peanut sauce. $$-$$$ (714) 939-9690.

Jody Maroni’s Sausage Kingdom

Stand-up sausage eaters will rejoice at this modest stand. All these terrific sausages, grilled and served on fresh onion rolls, put regular wieners to shame. Two of the best are the spicy Louisiana hot link and the sweet Yucatan, made with chicken, turkey, cilantro and serrano chiles. $ (714) 769-3472.

Richie’s Neighborhood Pizzeria

Richie’s features nostalgic ‘50s music, red-and-white-checkered tablecloths and great pizza, whole or by the slice. Most, except for the delicious pan-style Sicilian, have thin, chewy crusts, New York-style. The sausage-and-pepper pie has lots of sliced sweet sausage. The spinach and white-cheese pizza is to die for. $ (714) 769-3130.

Twin Dragon

This is a better-than-average steam-table operation, where you can get nicely crisp pot stickers, tangy hot-and-sour soup and good vegetable dishes. The delicious sesame pork ribs are gloriously tender. (714) 769-3138. $ (Also at the Irvine Spectrum.)

Cafe Galileo

Come here for panini or slushy orange or raspberry granitas. The panini--that’s Italian for grilled sandwiches--look as if they come from a George Foreman infomercial, but they are redeemed by their taste. Try No. 4: roasted eggplant, sweet red pepper, Greek olives and feta cheese. $ (714) 769-3738.

Also at the Block: Auntie Anne’s, Ben and Jerry’s (ice cream), Bon Bon International, Cool Planet, Dave & Buster’s (see below), Jamba Juice, Johnny Rockets (see below), Quizno’s Classic Subs, Ranch 1, Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory, Ron Jon Surf Grill, Rubio’s Baja Grill, Starbucks, Sweets From Heaven, T-Wraps and Wetzel’s Pretzels (see below).

IRVINE SPECTRUM

Where the Santa Ana Freeway (I-5) and the San Diego Freeway (I-405) meet in Irvine. Four core restaurants--Bertolini’s, Champps, P.F. Chang’s China Bistro and Wolfgang Puck Cafe--were built in Phase One of this sprawling complex. All have been previously mentioned in Times reviews. Here are some added in Phase Two.

The Cheesecake Factory

This hugely popular chain may be the center’s toughest table at peak hours, thanks to humongous portions and a menu with something for everyone. The food is competent, but the signature desserts, dozens of cheesecakes topped with just about every sweet topping known to man, are rich, sumptuous and imaginative. $$ (949) 788-9998.

Dave & Buster’s

Some will be ready for a sensory deprivation chamber after an evening in this massive game room, a Chuck E. Cheese for grown-ups. Play billiards, virtual-reality golf or romp in a 3-D flight simulator. Then try to keep nachos, pizzas, muffaletta sandwiches or Jack Daniels barbecued ribs from rumbling around in your stomach. $ (949) 727-0555.

Johnny Rockets

The ‘50s is the theme at this winsome red-booth hamburger joint, where the jukebox constantly spins out tunes from that era. Burgers are nifty, especially ones such as the St. Louis, made with bacon, Swiss cheese, grilled onions and the restaurant’s trademark special sauce. Great apple pie too. $ (949) 753-8144.

Rock Bottom Brewery

Soaring cactus plants and giant steel fermentation tanks provide a dramatic backdrop for the Spectrum’s resident microbrewery. The food’s not bad, and the beer is even better. Try the alder-smoked fish and chips, made with salmon, the retro Monte Cristo sandwich and any of the brews, especially the rich Regatta Red. $$ (949) 453-0777.

Speedway Cafe

If you’re a NASCAR fan, dining in this auto-themed restaurant will be a hoot. It’s appointed with motoring memorabilia, bar stools made out of racing springs and dozens of TV screens. The food can be straightforward, such as ribs and chicken, or wacky, such as swordfish with blueberry sauce. $ (949) 788-9990.

MORE AT IRVINE SPECTRUM

Blueberry Hill

This hamburger stand serves the Grand Thrill, 8 ounces of especially flavorful chopped beef with 12 glorious toppings. It is, for my money, the best burger around. But there is also great chili, good onion rings and gravy fries, a blood-thickening Quebecois snack I defy anyone to stop eating. Mmmmm. $$ (949) 753-1515.

Boudin Sourdough Bakery & Cafe

Soups and salads in sourdough bread bowls are the specialty here, and, brother, are they hearty. The San Francisco-style sourdough is one of the best around. The best soup is a thick and creamy clam chowder. The hearty beef stew, while not a soup, is stick-to-the-ribs fare, and it, too, fills a bread bowl. $ (949) 453-8809.

Pasta Bravo

This breezy food-court stand does hot and cold pastas, salads and pizzas, and it does them generally right. All pastas and sauces are made fresh daily. Entrees are prepared to order. The best pastas are rigatoni with rock shrimp in garlic marinara, angel-hair pasta with chipotle chicken, and plain old spaghetti and meatballs. $ (949) 727-4757.

Surf City Squeeze

If you’re in the mood for a smoothie, you can’t do much better than this. These thick and delicious concoctions are made with a soy-based, nondairy mix, real juice and lots of fresh fruit. Chillers are made with only fruit, juice and ice. Optional supplements include most anything from brewer’s yeast to spirulina. Smoothies: $3.50-$3.95. Juices, lemonade and slushes $2.35-$3.25. (949) 453-0403.

Wetzel’s Pretzels

Just about everyone’s a sucker for warm, chewy pretzels. Wetzel’s takes a good formula, warm dough twisted into a pretzel shape, and goes it one better. These hot, freshly made snacks have flavors such as garlic or cinnamon sugar. Dipping sauces include melted cheddar cheese and hot caramel, either of which rockets them out of the low-fat snack category. Pretzels: $1.93-$2.47. (949) 453-1402.

Also at Irvine Spectrum: Ben and Jerry’s, the Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, Cool Planet, Diedrich Coffee, Jamba Juice, Mrs. Fields, New York’s Upper Crust Pizza, Pyro’s Homestyle Rotisserie and Twin Dragon.