Lost Luster

Country Star at Universal CityWalk recently changed owners, and it’s no longer a showcase for C&W; singers like Reba McEntire and Clint Black. What’s more, Lane Wootten, known in these parts as the Cowboy Chef, has departed, taking his excellent chili and “rattlesnake” barbecue sauce with him.

But it’s still something to see. The place is full of guitars, platinum records and stage costumes of country artists, all displayed in glass cases and picture frames.

I like the trompe-l’oeil ceiling representing a desert sunset, too, and the cowhide (really oilcloth) tablecloths.

For that matter, you can still watch country artists as you dine, but not live. During my last visit, a music video of LeAnn Rimes played over and over on one of the restaurant’s many TV screens, though the decibel level seemed strangely subdued.

And to look on the bright side, it’s actually a lot easier to get a table these days, since the new restaurant attraction on the block, Marvel Mania, has siphoned off a lot of the crowds.

Most important, the kitchen still turns out many good things to eat. (The chili is a big exception; what they serve these days is meaty but it’s scarcely chili in my book, just ground beef with tomato sauce and cumin.)

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The barbecued meats are still smoked with real hickory, and the quality remains high. The baby back ribs are as persistently smoky as any in the city, and as tender as anyone has a right to expect. The chicken has a sweet woodiness that grows on you.

The St. Louis spare ribs are large, meaty ribs (not nearly as tender as the baby backs) slathered with a good Maker’s Mark barbecue sauce.

I happen to love the item boastfully called the world’s greatest cheese toast. It’s thick slices of toasted sourdough with a crisp, delicious baked cheese topping.

As for the rest of the fare in here, well, it’s spotty. The grilled catfish sandwich is a nice piece of fish, and the kitchen does an especially good job blackening it. The roasted pork sandwich--”pulled” pork on a French roll with slaw and barbecue sauce--is pretty average.

And the grilled steak salad is a failure; the strips of grilled meat are doused in salad dressing, which makes them tepid and unappealing.

The stars may be out in this restaurant, but the hickory pit flames on.

BE THERE

Country Star, 1000 Universal Center Drive, Universal City. Open 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m Sunday. Two-hour parking validation ($2) at CityWalk valet. Full bar. All major cards. Dinner for two, $28-$49. Suggested dishes: the world’s greatest cheese toast, $2.95; hickory chicken, $12.95; baby back ribs, $17.95; fried catfish sandwich, $8.95. Call (818) 762-3939.