Sticky Door? The Answer May Be Plane - Los Angeles Times
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Sticky Door? The Answer May Be Plane

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Question: My front door is sticking along one side of the jamb near the bottom, making it hard to close. Before I start working on it, should I be thinking about planing the jamb or the door?

W.E.

Buena Park

Answer: “You should probably be planing the door,” says Frank Eckert of Arrow Hardware in Orange. “But before you start, take a look and see if something else may be causing the sticking. Check the hinges to make sure the door isn’t leaning out of the jamb. If you have to plane, remove the door and plane the door’s edge. This is an easier area to work on and taking the door off will let you take full strokes. If you try to plane the jamb, you’ll probably have to remove the molding that fits in the jamb to stop the door, which can be a big job.”

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Q: We moved into a house with a gas outlet for a barbecue in the back yard. How can I convert my propane barbecue into one that uses natural gas?

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D.F.

Santa Ana

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A: “Generally, what’s involved is you have to change the orifices of the valve,” says George Moelter of Anaheim Fireside & Patio in Brea. “The orifices have to be larger, since natural gas is fed at a lower pressure. You’ll need to get a natural gas regulator, and install the new orifices. You may want to contact the Gas Company, since they can provide you with information and assistance on doing the job.”

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Q: I have knotty pine paneling in one of my rooms and I’ve found that the finish is flaking off. How can I restore it?

C.G.

Fullerton

A: “When that happens the varnish coat is crystallizing,” says Joe Ragsdale of Color Center in La Mirada. “First you’ll need to sand all of the paneling down, going with the grain. Using a detergent solution such as water and TSP, wash it down, rinse it, then let it dry out for a few days. After that, you should be able to apply a polyurethane finish to it. Make sure you’ve sanded as much of the old finish off as possible, since you need it off for the new finish to adhere.”

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Q: The front of our house has siding and brick veneer. We need to paint the exterior soon and would like to remove the old coats of paint and restore the brick to its original state. How can we do this?

K.T.

Placentia

A: “It’s going to depend on how much brick is involved,” says a representative of Tustin Paint Mart. “If there’s not a big area, you may be able to use paint removers and brushes. However, with large areas, you’ll need to sandblast the paint off, since working with paint remover on a large surface can be volatile. Having the area blasted may be somewhat expensive, but it’s certainly the easiest method to get the job done. As an alternative, you can paint the bricks a natural red color, then with a gray paint highlight the mortar lines.”

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Q: We’re hurting for storage space at our house. Can I use the crawl space underneath to keep some boxes?

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S.B.

Anaheim

A: “You’re better off reorganizing all your stuff so it can be kept out of that area,” says contractor Dave Greene of Santa Ana. “It can get musty and damp, and a leaking pipe can ruin whatever you’re storing. Not only that, when a plumber or electrician has to get underneath the house, there may be a problem getting around. There are lots of closet and garage organizing materials around that are relatively inexpensive and can help you.”

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