Spicy Standout

Southern California has more than 500 Korean restaurants, more than anywhere in the world outside South Korea. To avoid the confusion, try Nam Kang at the eastern edge of Koreatown.

A simple yet attractive restaurant decorated with blond wood tables and tiny chandeliers, Nam Kang was opened in 1985 by Moon Kang So, who had been in the restaurant business in South Korea. She no longer cooks at the restaurant, but Moon rigorously trained her chefs.

Nam Kang starts you off with panchan --a selection of side dishes that is sort of a Korean antipasto. About 15 small dishes are brought to the table, including at least three varieties of kimchi , heavily seasoned vegetables. Other panchan offerings are sliced beef with soy sauce, fish cakes and oysters in a fiery chile sauce, and a tasty pancake flecked with vegetables and green onions.

Lunch is the specialty of the house. A hot ticket is Chunju dolsot beebimbob ($8.99). This colorful, satisfying dish consists of beef, spinach, zucchini, carrots, bean sprouts, rice and a red pepper paste set in a large black stone bowl.

Other good choices at lunch include the barbecued pork and barbecued sliced beef ($6.99 each), grilled at your table’s built-in barbecue.

The dinner specialty is Nam Kang jungohl ($24, but serves up to four), a seafood and beef casserole. Seasoned with garlic, sesame oil, soy sauce, green onions, red pepper powder and sesame seeds, it’s rather spicy, so try the refreshing iced tea.

Nam Kang, 3055 W. 7th St. (213) 380-6606. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.