FASHION : A Footwear Fetish : Shoppers Snap Up Old Boots With Pointy Toes, Exotic Skins and Cutouts
When Nancy Sinatra crooned, “These boots are made for walking,” she could have been singing about one of the latest Southern California fashion trends. Well-worn vintage cowboy boots with pointed toes, exotic skins and novelty inlays are becoming as familiar a sight on the streets of Los Angeles as they are on the cattle ranches of Texas.
Although they may never replace new boots by such makers as Tony Lama, Laredo and Justin, classic boots from the 1940s to the 1970s attract consumers looking for value, comfort and, most of all, authentic Western style. The trend is so strong that some manufacturers have introduced replicas of old boot silhouettes into their newest collections.
“I’m paying three times more for a pair of used boots than I did just a few years ago,” says Mark Fox, owner of two L.A.-area shoe stores that bear his name. “But I’m willing to pay what I have to because the demand is so strong.”
“We used to be able to buy a (pair) of used cowboy boots (for) anywhere from $25 to $125,” says Dennis Pollicino, owner of Leathers & Treasures and Western Treasures, two L.A. stores catering to the used-boot crowd. “Now, the same pair of boots would cost me $25 more.” The markup on boots in good condition is about 2 1/2 times the wholesale price.
Although black boots with pointed toes and low-slung heels are the most popular models, many vintage dealers say chocolate brown and other earth tones are making a comeback. Likewise, although clean looks are big sellers, novelty inlays featuring brightly colored cacti, wildflowers and sunbursts--designs from the 1940s and 1950s--are gaining a loyal following. Local retailers say used boot sales are up 10% to 30%.
Many of these used boots--purchased from “pickers,” who comb flea markets, auctions and garage sales in the Midwest and Texas--are not reserved for blue jeans. Casual street sportswear, elegant evening clothes and even swimwear are getting the used-boot treatment this spring.
“I never wore them until six months ago,” says Anabelle Berley of her used black boots. “But they’re really comfortable and don’t fall off your feet. They’re especially great to dance in.”
Gerri Hughes, a retail salesperson who recently moved to Los Angeles from South Carolina, agrees. “In L.A. I can wear them year-round. But back home we only wear cowboy boots in the winter.” Hughes says she wears her used cowboy boots with everything from dresses and skirts to jeans.
Most wearers say previously owned cowboy boots are extremely comfortable and remove the “blister factor” often associated with new foot gear. But buying them requires a careful eye. Dealers suggest that customers twist the boot with their hands to look for cracks in the leather. They also advise checking for worn heels and holes in the soles.
Although some older boots fetch $400 to $600, depending on their origin and skin, most store owners say customers can expect to pay from $90 to $300 for a good pair of well-worn boots. This, they say, represents a $50 to $200 savings on many comparable newer styles. Exotic-skin boots made of anteater, python and kangaroo (widely used in the 1950s before endangered species laws took effect in the United States) or one-of-a-kind custom vintage boots--discernible by the absence of serial and style numbers inside--often carry the higher prices.
Retailers say the older models were better made.
Says Pollicino, “They used to make boots with hard leather-capped toes to protect (your) feet in case a horse steps on you. Nowadays, they use a plastic nylon-formed cap toe. They also used better quality calfskins that made the boots more comfortable.” Pollicino says the average pair of vintage boots in his stores costs $195. Comparable new boots would cost at least $100 more.
Although 1940s-style peewees (women’s boots cut just below the ankle) with high, angled “dog-in-heels” (slanted inward) are popular at Leathers & Treasures, Pollicino says pointed-toe boots with 1 1/2- to 1 3/4-inch flat heels are more acceptable to Angelenos unaccustomed to rugged country living.
“A lot of potential customers don’t buy boots because they take such a long time to wear in,” adds Wayne Feit, a vintage boot salesman for Mark Fox. “What we do is refurbish, clean and resole the boots so they have an aged look on top but are essentially new underneath.”
Feit says vintage boot sales at Mark Fox have been “steadily growing” in the past few years. Although the store carries more than 40 styles of new Nocona-brand boots, he says 80% of sales are in vintage styles.
The stores’ most popular boots include 1940s peewees; whip-stitched styles from the 1950s, and Tony Lama lizard-toes from the 1960s.
“We don’t touch boots from the 1970s because they’re too disco,” says Feit.
Paul Helms, a vintage boot buyer for American Classics, a used clothing and shoe store in Los Angeles, attributes the upswing to two factors: an increase in people who “collect” one-of-a-kind styles and in those “who simply want a cheap boot.”
Some well-known vintage boot collectors include Bruce Springsteen, Darryl Hannah, Beverly D’Angelo and Bonnie Raitt.
Although most store owners agree that the Gulf War slowed boot and other luxury purchases earlier this year, Helms says American Classics, where vintage boots compose 40% of the stock, is starting to see an increase in sales.
Helms says demand is up for 1960s-influenced, square-toe boots with bright-colored novelty cutouts. “Those have really been happening but they’re very expensive.” Indeed, these “parade boots” can cost as much as $900 a pair.
Even stores that cater to new-boot customers have noticed an interest in vintage styles.
“The novelty-looking boots are hot,” says Scott Emmerich, owner of Brentwood-based Falconhead Boots, Belts & Buckles. “We stock about 1,000 different boots for men and women, but we’ve seen a lot of interest in boots that are designed to look old.” Emmerich cites Texas-based Justin and Laredo as two makers testing vintage-inspired designs.
A Select Guide to Used-Boot Buying
* Falconhead Boots, Belts & Buckles, 11911 San Vincente Blvd., Brentwood, (213) 471-7075. The store stocks more than 1,000 pairs of men’s and women’s boots, including new models with a vintage look, and specializes in custom designs. Average price: $400. Open 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon to 5 p.m. Sunday.
* Leathers & Treasures, 7511 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 655-7541. The store has one of the largest selections of vintage cowboy boots, with styles from the 1940s to the 1990s. Prices start at $100. Open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon to 7 p.m. Sunday.
* Mark Fox, 7368 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 936-1619; 2510 Main St., Santa Monica, (213) 392-7397. Both stores feature vintage jeans, jackets, overalls and shorts. Nearly 40% of the stock is used cowboy boots. Prices: $99 to $300. Open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily.
* Nudies Rodeo Tailors, 5015 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, (818) 762-3105. The Western store features a large selection of vintage cowboy boots. Prices start at $150. Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday.
* Old Frontier Clothing Co., (213) 657-9257. This Los Angeles-based Western mail-order catalogue company features authentic boots and clothing. Boot prices run $200 to $300. Call for a free catalogue.
* Texas Soul, 7515 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 658-5571. The small boutique sells mostly new boots with vintage styling. Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon to 7 p.m. Sunday.
* Western Treasures, 7623 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 934-0100. Known primarily for its Western furniture, the shop also carries 12 to 15 vintage boot styles. Open noon to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
* Worn Out West, 306 N. Stanley Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 934-5890. This tiny Western junk store holds a sidewalk boot sale every Sunday from noon to 6 p.m.
