For a Good Baked Potato Choose a Russet Variety

Question: My husband used to enjoy a good baked russet potato, but lately he claims they taste sweet and refuses to eat them. Is there a reason for this? How can I find the old-fashioned russet? Are any other potatoes suitable for baking?

Answer: Could you be storing the potatoes improperly? They should be kept in a cool, dry, dark place that is well ventilated. Do not refrigerate. At temperatures below 40 degrees, potatoes develop a sweet taste, a result of some of the starch turning to sugar. This increase in sugar also causes the potato to darken when cooked.

Today there are actually a half-dozen or more types of russets. The three varieties most commonly grown and marketed in California are the Russet Burbank, Centennial Russet and Norgold Russet.

These three varieties share the same basic shape and netted skin, and there is no real difference in the nutritive value. They do, however, vary greatly in flavor and texture due to differences in moisture and solid content.

Norgolds have the highest water content and lowest solid content. Centennials have a heavier skin, less water and a higher solid content than Norgolds. Russet Burbanks have the lowest moisture content and the highest solid content of the three.

Since flavor is a subjective judgment, it is up to each of us to decide which of the three varieties we prefer. Unfortunately, most markets simply label potatoes as russets and do not differentiate between the varieties. Also, seldom is more than one variety available.

Q: Consumer Reports, in their July, 1986, issue, found that the best ice cream makers are the Italian imports such as the Simac II Gelataio, though they are expensive. However, I cannot find any place that sells them, or even has heard of them. Can you help?

A: The Simac II Gelataio is available at Montana Mercantile, 1500 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, (213) 451-1418, and Cook’s Corner, 1160 Glendale Galleria, Glendale, (818) 246-6661.

Q: I seem to remember hearing you can freeze eggs, but need more detailed instructions.

A: The American Egg Board says: “Yes, raw whole eggs, whites and yolks and hard-cooked yolks can be frozen successfully. Hard-cooked whole eggs or hard-cooked whites will become tough if frozen. Eggs cannot be frozen in their shells.

“To freeze egg whites, pour them into freezer containers, seal tightly, label with the number of whites and the date and freeze. If you like, first freeze each white in an ice cube tray and then transfer the frozen cubes to a freezer container.

“Yolks or whole eggs require special treatment before freezing. When frozen, the gelation property of the yolk causes it to thicken or gel. To help retard this gelation, add either 1/8 teaspoon salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar or corn syrup for each 4 yolks or 2 whole eggs. Label containers with the number of yolks or whole eggs, the date and whether you’ve added salt (for use with main dishes) or sweetener (for baking or desserts). You may find that the finished product is somewhat thicker than it would be if made with fresh eggs.”

Note: When freezing whole eggs, beat just enough to blend the yolks and whites.

“Thaw frozen eggs overnight in the refrigerator or under running cold water. Use yolks or whole eggs as soon as they’re thawed. Once thawed, whites will beat to better volume if allowed to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.”

In response to the Aug. 26 You Asked About . . . column on olive butter, S. Sheppard writes: “The olive butter referred to in today’s Food section is not as involved as tapenade. I, too, used to be able to buy it in the East and now and then here in Los Angeles.

“Best way to come close is to drain and rinse salad (green) olives and grind or put them through the food processor. Add a trickle of olive oil if necessary to make spreading easier. Wonderful with cream cheese.”