The Great Tomato : Flavorful Tomato Classics - Los Angeles Times
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The Great Tomato : Flavorful Tomato Classics

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Now that good-tasting tomatoes are back, turn to recipes that take advantage of their flavor. A little nostalgia may be in order--there’s nothing like an old classic for showing off today’s innovations.

RED SALSA CRUDA

2 large tomatoes, finely chopped

1 medium white onion, minced

1 to 2 serrano chiles, minced

1 clove garlic, minced, optional

1/2 cup minced cilantro leaves

Salt

Tortilla chips

Combine tomatoes, onion, chiles, garlic and cilantro. Season to taste with salt. Let stand to blend flavors. Serve with tortilla chips. Makes about 4 cups.

TOMATO DOLMASI

8 large, firm tomatoes

1/2 pound ground lamb

1 medium onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

Salt, pepper

Dash sugar

Grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon

2/3 cup uncooked rice

1 1/2 cups beef or chicken broth

2/3 cup chopped parsley

2/3 cup chopped green onions

3 tablespoons snipped fresh dill weed

2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram

2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint leaves

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

Cut thin slice off tops of tomatoes and set aside. Scoop out pulp, leaving 1/2-inch thick shells. Drain, dice and reserve tomato pulp for filling. Invert tomato shells to drain on paper towels.

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Saute lamb in large skillet with onion and garlic until meat is browned and crumbly. Add 1/2 tomato sauce and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook 1 minute.

Add sugar, lemon zest and juice and rice. Saute, stirring, until rice glistens. Add 1 cup broth. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 10 minutes or until liquid is almost absorbed.

Stir in parsley, green onions, dill weed, marjoram, mint and reserved drained tomato pulp. Cook 5 minutes.

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Place tomato shells in 4-quart baking dish. Spoon meat mixture into tomatoes.

Combine remaining 1/2 tomato sauce, 1/2 cup broth and olive oil in small saucepan. Heat, then pour over stuffed tomatoes. Top with reserved tops.

Cover pan with foil and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes to 1 hour or until tomatoes are baked and filling is heated through. Makes 8 servings.

TOMATO SURPRISE

4 medium tomatoes

Salt

1/2 pound cooked crab meat

2 hard-cooked eggs, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/4 cup diced cucumber

Dash black pepper

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/3 cup mayonnaise

Lettuce leaves

Capers

Black olives

With stem end down, cut each tomato into 6 wedges, cutting to, but not through base of tomato. Spread wedges apart slightly. Season to taste with salt. Chill.

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Combine crab meat, eggs, celery, cucumber and pepper. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Chill.

Just before serving, blend mayonnaise into crab mixture. Spoon 1/4 mixture onto each tomato. Serve on lettuce leaves, garnished with capers and black olives. Makes 4 servings.

PIZZA AL POMODORO

2 3/4 to 3 1/4 cups flour

1 package dry yeast

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup water

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

Olive oil

Thinly sliced Roma tomatoes

Salt, pepper

Chopped fresh basil

Mix 1 cup flour and yeast. Combine milk, water, sugar, oil and salt in medium saucepan. Stir until warm over low heat.

Add liquid to flour mixture and beat until smooth, about 2 minutes on medium speed of electric mixer. Add 1/2 cup flour and beat 1 minute. Stir in enough more flour to make moderately stiff dough.

Turn onto lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and satiny, 10 to 12 minutes. Shape into ball and place in lightly greased bowl, turning to grease all sides. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled.

Punch dough down. Divide in half. Roll each half to fit 13-inch pizza pan. Place on greased pan, pushing up sides to form rim. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled.

Brush dough with olive oil. Cover with even layer of tomato slices. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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Bake at 425 degrees 15 to 18 minutes or until crust is crisp and golden brown. Sprinkle with basil. Makes 2 (13-inch) pizzas.

FRESH TOMATO SAUCE

2 large tomatoes, peeled and cored

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup chopped green onions, optional

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Cut tomatoes in half. Remove as many seeds as possible and drain juice. Dice pulp.

Combine tomatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil, green onions, garlic, basil and oregano in medium bowl, tossing to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and let stand at room temperature several hours for flavors to blend. Just before serving, add remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Make 2 cups.

Note: Serve with hot cooked pasta and sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese or 6 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into fine dice.

TOMATO-MOZZARELLA SALAD

4 large tomatoes

2 pounds fresh mozzarella cheese

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley

1/2 cup Nicoise olives

Vinaigrette Dressing

Freshly ground black pepper

Cut tomatoes and mozzarella into 1/4-inch slices. Alternate overlapping slices on serving platter. Sprinkle with basil, parsley and olives.

Drizzle Vinaigrette Dressing over salad. Season to taste with pepper. Makes 6 servings.

Vinaigrette Dressing

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 shallot, minced

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Whisk together mustard and vinegar. Add olive oil, garlic, shallot and season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes about 1/3 cup.

JAMES BEARD’S CHEESE-TOMATO PIE

Biscuit Dough

4 to 6 tomatoes, peeled

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 cup shredded Cheddar, Gruyere or Jack cheese

1 1/2 cups mayonnaise

Line 9-inch pie pan with Biscuit Dough. Cut tomatoes into thick slices. Cover dough with layers of tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and basil.

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Blend cheese and mayonnaise and spread over tomatoes. Bake at 400 degrees 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees and continue baking 20 minutes or until crust is browned. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Biscuit Dough

2 cups flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup shortening

3/4 cup milk

Combine flour, baking powder and salt in medium bowl. Cut in shortening. Add milk and stir quickly until dough clings together.

Turn out on floured board. Knead dough several times, then roll out to fit 9-inch pie pan.

OLD-FASHIONED TOMATO PRESERVES

2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and cored

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/4 cup lemon juice

6 1/2 cups sugar

2 (3-ounce) pouches liquid fruit pectin

Cut tomatoes in eighths or crush. Place in 6-quart saucepot. Simmer over low heat 10 minutes.

Stir in lemon zest and juice. Add sugar and bring mixture to full rolling boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Boil hard 1 minute.

Remove from heat. Stir in pectin. Skim off foam with metal spoon. Ladle into hot sterilized 1/2-pint jars, leaving 1/4 inch head space. Seal and process 20 minutes in boiling water bath. Makes 7 1/2 cups.

GREEN TOMATO PIE

6 medium green tomatoes, peeled and cored

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 cup brown sugar, packed

3 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup golden raisins, optional

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon salt

Pastry for (9-inch) 2-crust pie

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

Slice tomatoes 1/4-inch thick into mixing bowl. Sprinkle with lemon juice.

Combine sugar, flour, raisins, lemon zest, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Fold into tomato slices.

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Line pie pan with pastry. Turn tomato mixture into bottom crust and dot with butter.

Roll out top crust and cut vents. Place over filling and trim overhang to 1 inch. Tuck under lower crust and press into upright ridge resting on rim. Crimp edge.

Bake at 450 degrees 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees and continue baking 25 to 30 minutes. Cool on rack. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH FRIED TOMATOES (Adapted from “Time-Life American Cooking”)

4 to 5 large firm ripe tomatoes, thickly sliced

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup flour

4 to 6 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons sieved brown sugar

1 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Season tomato slices on both sides with salt and pepper to taste. Dip in flour, coating each side thoroughly, then gently shaking off excess.

Melt butter in 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat. When foam subsides, add tomato slices and cook about 5 minutes, until lightly browned.

Sprinkle tops of tomato slices with 1 tablespoon brown sugar. Carefully turn slices with spatula and sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon brown sugar. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, then transfer slices to heated serving platter.

Pour whipping cream into pan and increase heat to high. Bring to boil, stirring constantly. Boil briskly 2 to 3 minutes or until cream thickens. Taste to adjust for seasonings, then pour over tomatoes. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

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Note: Nonstick skillet is preferred for preparation. Traditionally recipe is made with green tomatoes. If available, cook more slowly and few minutes longer on each side.

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