ZOV’S BISTRO

It wasn’t in Zov Karamardian’s plans to run a restaurant. Her catering business, A to Z Gourmet Catering, was flourishing.

However, three and a half years ago she opened a charcuterie, with pates, cheeses and gourmet foods. She called the eating place Zov’s Bistro because people already knew her name.

“The original idea was to open a place for light lunches,” Karamardian said.

But she didn’t want people to go away hungry. Sandwiches and light entrees were added to the menu, and, much to her surprise, the restaurant was a hit. Its faithful clientele only complained that it wasn’t open for dinner.

Zov’s concession to open for dinner two nights a week has grown to four nights. The other three nights are open only to private parties.

“I didn’t expect that it would be this successful,” she said. “This is a dream come true for me.”

The only way her family can see her is to join her for some part of her 16- to 17-hour day. Her husband works as the maitre d’ on Friday and Saturday nights.

The menu offers the familiar with inventive touches. The roasted rack of lamb is served with pomegranate sauce, the grilled veal chop with whole grain mustard sauce; the Alaskan salmon is poached with citrus dill sauce. Steamed mussels are served with garlic, shallots and wine, the calamari steamed with garlic, tomatoes and fresh oregano on baked sourdough bread.

But the appetizers hint at Zov’s Armenian heritage: Mezza, a “Mediterranean variety plate,” features hummus (smashed chickpeas, sesame seed oil and garlic), stuffed grape leaves and walnut caviar with pita bread. Tabouleh (bulgur, fresh mint, parsley, tomatoes), and Baba Ganooj (roasted pureed eggplant with sesame seed oil, garlic and lemon) also appear on the menu.

The desserts in a glass-enclosed display are simply dangerous--dangerously delicious, that is. Some customers count down how many tiramisu or creme broulee remain and order dessert before their main course is over.

The restaurant’s intimate feel is the product of a modest 19 tables, most of which seat only two. At lunchtime, five tables are set up under umbrellas in the front patio area. The clientele is mixed: Some customers show up in tennis clothes, others are dressed for the theater or movies.

“Nobody feels out of place,” Karamardian said. These are all repeat customers, and she knows their names. Going to Zov’s Bistro is indeed habit-forming--and a culinary delight.

Hours: Lunch is 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, dinner is 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday. Closed to the public for dinner Sunday through Tuesday. Address: Enderle Center, 17440 17th St., Tustin Telephone: (714) 838-8855 Miscellaneous information: Private dinner parties may be scheduled at Zov’s Bistro Sunday through Tuesday.