The following are summaries of recent Times...

The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Spats, 901 Civic Center Drive, Santa Ana. (714) 558-1883. Open for lunch Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m to 2 p.m., for dinner Mondays through Saturdays 5 to 9:30 p.m. Closed Sunday.

Spats is one of those maddeningly confusing little restaurants where it is impossible to know what you are supposed to be eating. The chef is Japanese. The menu is Italian and Japanese. The ambience is pure California. Best to try are the more Japanese dishes like broiled beef on bamboo skewer, fresh oysters in the shell with Japanese dipping sauce, and soba , handmade buckwheat noodles treated with a simple respect. Avoid the gummy pastas and the pretentious Western concoctions. Most of them are better left to the concept stage. There is an adjoining disco if you get too impatient waiting for service.

Los Alamitos Fish Company, 11061 Los Alamitos Blvd., Los Alamitos. (213) 594-4553. Open Sundays through Thursdays 11 a.m to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays until 11 p.m.

Order mesquite broiled fish from the restaurant’s giant circular grill, or enjoy a brace of other dishes such as steamed Dungeness crab, smoked albacore tuna or simply flavored steamers, all of which go beautifully with the restaurant’s standout sourdough bread. Desserts are all homemade. The best of them are a superior blackout cake and a soft, tart, lemon mousse pie.

Soup Exchange, 151 E. Orangethorpe, Fullerton . (714) 992-5522. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Salmagundi, South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa . (714) 549-9267. Open Mondays through Saturdays 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sundays noon to 5.

Eat soup, live longer at these two emporia for our favorite comfort food. Soup Exchange is the slicker and less expensively packaged of the two, a soup and salad bar with such extras as frozen yogurt and muffins and a nacho bar to boot. It’s all you can eat and every man for himself. Salmagundi is homier and even a bit trendy, with such exotic soups as tortilla, wild rice and country Cheddar; they change daily. Salmagundi also has a dessert bar where you can indulge in such goodies as trifle, apple brown betty and chocolate mousse. Either restaurant redefines the word excess.

Metropolitan Grill, 18201 Von Karman Ave., Irvine. (714) 474-3060. Open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; for dinner Monday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.

Metropolitan Grill is an urban steakhouse in the center of a vast canyon of Irvine office buildings, and its dining room has the same kind of handsome muscularity as a prize steer: sculpted wooden bar, halogen lamps, high-tech metals. The beef is certified Black Angus and it tastes terrific. Metro Grill steak is a center cut top sirloin marinated in a Jack Daniel’s garlic sauce, topped with pancetta and mushrooms. Prime rib is sublime. Everything is broiled with mesquite and comes with huge baked potatoes, fine julienned vegetables and a first-rate house bread.

Scampi, 1576 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa. (714) 645-8560. Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., daily from 5:30 p.m.

Scampi is the name of a dark, noisy and unassuming Neapolitan style trattoria that has come to the nether reaches of Newport Boulevard, and it is already bringing new energy to the street. Chef Massimo Navaretta specializes in scampi , those outsized Italian crustaceans with a flavor between lobster and shrimp, but does many other things to perfection as well. Zuppa di vongole , the house version of steamed clams, has mysterious fragrances from a combination of herbs. Timballo di verdure , a flat noodle layered with fresh ricotta, vegetables, and herbs, is irresistible. Wear your T-shirt. The waiters do.

Sabatino’s, 34700 Coast Highway, Capistrano Beach. (714) 661-8998. Open Tuesdays through Thursdays 5 to 10 p.m., Fridays through Sundays to 11 p.m.

Sabatino’s is familiar, Chicago import Italian, complete with a romantic beach view, the best sausage this side of Cicero, and cloying lounge lizard music. As long as you don’t mind hearing “Mama” three times during dinner, you will love the place. Owner Pete Sabatino mixes an outstanding Caesar tableside, using pickled garlic cloves that he hoards in a jar. Pastas are mostly fresh, with thick, flavorful sauces like pesto and Alfredo. Main courses, as in most restaurants of this genre, are almost beside the point.

Shan-Li Palace, 5634 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim . (714) 779-1410. Open Mondays through Thursdays and Sundays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays to 11 p.m.

This Mandarin style Chinese restaurant is further proof that gentrification is spreading like a brush fire. It is nestled snugly in the Anaheim Hills not far from the Riverside County line; a few years back you couldn’t have found a hamburger stand in these parts. Order the steamed dumplings, despite the fact that the waiter may try to discourage you. They are wonderful. Spinach bean curd soup tastes as fresh as if the spinach came from out back. Twice cooked pork is fiery and colorful. Moo-shu dishes, minced meats and veggies rolled up burrito style, are terrific.

Mene’s Terrace, 23532 El Toro Road (Orange Tree Plaza), El Toro. (714) 830-3228. Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m., Saturdays 5 to 9:30 p.m.

Mene’s Terrace is like a sun-splashed Aegean taverna, transported magically to an El Toro shopping mall. You know you are not in Greece because you can see the Denny’s just outside the window. The menu is small, but everything is prepared the way an Orthodox grandmother would prepare it. Tiropita and spanakopita , little cheese and spinach pies in a filo crust, are near perfect. The egg lemon soup is even better. Wonderful char-grilled meats, marinated in lemon juice and Greek spices, are served with rice pilaf and pan roasted potatoes. There is even complimentary baklava at dinner time.

A La Carte Bistro, 16847 Algonquin Road (Huntington Harbour Mall), Huntington Beach. (714) 840-8152. Open Mondays through Thursdays 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Fridays to 10 p.m., Saturdays 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.

The A La Carte Bistro has a giant menu for such a tiny space, and the portions are giant to match. Chef Friedrich Rechberger has a dedication that borders on fanaticism, and a deft hand behind the range. You have got to see the house salad to believe it, a huge, European-style platter of mixed salads that comes with dinner. Such game dishes as rabbit, venison, and quail abound. A must here is one of the chef’s special desserts, such as Kaiserschmarn, a chopped-up, butter-fried pancake served with powdered sugar and pureed apricot. Guaranteed to keep the wolf from the door for days.

Royal Khyber, 1000 N. Bristol St., Newport Beach. (714) 752-5200. Open Sundays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and daily 5:30 p.m. to 10:30.

The cuisine at Royal Khyber is the rich Mughlai type from north India and the restaurant has a richness to match; it resembles a maharaja’s palace. The best time to visit is for Sunday brunch, when a tempting array of more than 20 dishes is spread out before you. Meats cooked in the 800-degree tandoor are tender and crumbly with exotic spices. Biryani , a simple basmati rice dish with peas and fried onions is soft and fragrant. Among the many other dishes, chicken curry, channa masala (stewed garbanzo beans) and the dessert, a carrot-almond pudding, are most memorable.

Tootsie’s Sidewalk Cafe, Fashion Island, 327 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (714) 759-9000. Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sundays 10 a.m. to 6 p.m..

Tootsie’s is a bit overdone for a sidewalk cafe, and the prices are rather steep. Nonetheless, the place is fun. It is an exaggerated-looking pink room that dares you to like it, complete with poster art, columns and gaudy mirrored tables. Food is average, but desserts, made by Tootsie herself, are outstanding. Flaky apple dumplings are served warm with vanilla ice cream and a perfect caramel sauce. A wonderful chocolate pecan pie has a dense chocolate mixture folded in. Cheesecake is topped with an outrageously rich turtle topping. Come to think of it the whole place is a bit outrageous.

Steamers, 444 N. Harbor Boulevard, Fullerton . (714) 738-0781 . Open daily 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., until midnight on weekends.

Steamers is an ingenuous new seafood house in downtown Fullerton that is reminiscent of the wharf area in San Francisco, and the ambiance is big and bright. Owners Parin and Nazy Hirani have operated a Steamers in Placentia for several years now and are familiar with the problems facing a new restaurant, so things run smoothly. There is a large selection of fresh fish in a glass case staring you in the face as you enter, and the kitchen will prepare them any way you like. It is probably best to make use of the mesquite broiler, though, and to avoid any fancy preparation. Forget about sophistication and enjoy.

Be-Bop Burgers, 18575 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach . (714) 842-1958. Open daily 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., 11 p.m. on weekends, with car hop service every night from 7 till closing.

Pinky’s Hamburger Grill, 4115 Campus Drive, Irvine . (714) 854-4632. Open Tuesdays through Thursdays 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. , Fridays and Saturdays till midnight, Sundays and Mondays till 10.

Be-Bop Burgers and Pinky’s Hamburger Grill are part of a wave of “nostalgia” hamburger joints currently engulfing Orange County, and both are longer on atmosphere than food. The Be-Bop burger is a good value, a full quarter pound of lean beef on a seeded bun that just drips with condiments. Pinky’s beach burgers are charcoal grilled and really taste good. Other sandwiches in both restaurants are less competent. Luckily, both restaurants exude energy, plus the mindless fun of the ‘50s and ‘60s.

China Palace, 2800 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach. (714) 631-8031. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 10.

China Palace is a curious hybrid of East and West with a healthy dose of California thrown in; call the cooking style PCH Peking. Prepared by a team of chefs from Taiwan, the food is of the solid, dependable, no-surprises variety that safely appeals to most Western palates. Minced squab on lettuce leaf is terrific. Orange flavor chicken has a delightful crunch to it. Eggplant with minced pork is loaded with garlic. The eccentric, clubby dining room is pure Newport. There is even a sushi bar.

Sorrento Grill, 370 Glenneyre St., Laguna Beach. (714) 494-8686. Open Mondays through Saturdays 5:30 to 10 p.m., Sundays 5 to 9:30 p.m.

Sorrento Grill is one of the best new restaurants around, a virtual lock for local stardom. The restaurant is a high concept operation and it pushes all the right buttons: a stunningly designed open kitchen, post-modern vastness and a decibel level even Phillip Glass would object to. The food is wonderful. Young, innovative chef Roseanne Ruiz uses the finest ingredients, Chino ranch vegetables, carefully selected poultry and fish, and she prepares them with the finest olive oil and utmost care. Desserts like an amazing creme brulee are brutally rich. Expect lines and unbridled enthusiasm.

Black Sheep Bistro, 303 El Camino Real, Tustin. (714) 544-6060. Open Tuesdays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Wednesdays through Saturdays 5:30 to 8 p.m.

Tom Harrison and his wife Maribeth are not your typical restaurant couple: He is bearded and professorial; she is demure and wholesome. Together, they have created a charming little neighborhood bistro, and things would almost be perfect were it not for the spotty and eccentric food, some of which borders on the amateurish. Paella Tom’s way has hardly any rice in it; homemade pate is served with saltines. Still, the restaurant may win you over with its good pastas and desserts, and the delightfully engaging manner of the owners. They are awfully nice people.

Horikawa, South Coast Village, 3800 S. Plaza Drive, Santa Ana . (714) 557-2531. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Mondays through Fridays 5:30 to 10 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays to 11 p.m.

At Horikawa, the simplest food tends to be the best: Beef tataki , an appetizer of sizzling filet mignon, is delightful, and broiled salmon is good. But tempura , the batter fried shrimp and vegetable dishes, are leaden and overcooked, and various combination plates are insipid and expensive to boot. Your best bet is the upstairs teppan room, where knife-juggling chefs sear delicacies over a metal grill. The restaurant is expensive; better hope the company account covers this one.

La Vie en Rose, 240 S. State College Blvd., Brea. (714) 529-8333. Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m. (Mondays till 9 p.m.), Saturdays 5 to 10:30 p.m., Sundays 5 to 9 p.m.

La Vie en Rose is supposed to be fashioned after a Normandie farmhouse, but the building is a masterpiece in kitsch: It looks like a swap meet replica of the Mont-St.-Michel abbey. Luckily, the food is good. Spinach salad sizzles with natural flavor. Salad perigourdine , a simple dish of mixed greens, sliced, preserved duck, and a heady garlic dressing, makes a terrific lunch. Fish are prepared with delicacy. The

veal chop is wonderful. Service is flawless and attentive. The only major drawback is the noise level, which befits, well, a swap meet. Moderately expensive.

PoFolks, 279 E. Orangethorpe Ave., Fullerton . (714) 992-1515. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

This PoFolks is the first of a projected 50 to be built in Southern California: The chain is off to a good start. This is a high quality family restaurant with prices so low they are frightening. Chicken and dumplings a dollar nineteen? Yes, you read it right. Some of the best things here are a giant bowl of seafood gumbo, chock-full of shrimp, rice, and chunked okra, priced at $2.19, and a lightly breaded chicken fried steak. Such accompaniments as corn muffins, biscuits, and many side vegetable plates all are done with skill. Just don’t ask anybody what a moon pie is. If you do, you’ll be sorry.

Knott’s Chicken Dinner Restaurant, 8039 Beach Blvd., Buena Park. (714) 220-5080. Open daily except Christmas, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Disneyland, 1313 Harbor Blvd., Anaheim. (714) 999-4565. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Saturdays until midnight.

Between them, Knott’s Berry Farm and Disneyland feed more mouths than any local restaurant ever could hope to, yet their food concessions get surprisingly little notice. With regard to Disneyland, it’s not surprising: You are a captive audience there, and the food is mediocre at best. Mrs. Knott’s Chicken Dinner restaurant fares much better. You don’t even have to enter the park to eat there. For $7.95, hungry families can get individual dinners consisting of a rhubarb appetizer, a mixed green salad, fried chicken, traditional mashed potatoes and country gravy, fresh cabbage seasoned with ham, buttermilk biscuits, and a choice of pie. Take that, Mickey.

Duang Dara, 8924 Bolsa Ave., Westminster. (714) 891-8775. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Westminster’s Bolsa Avenue is known as “little Saigon” but its culinary treasures are not restricted to Vietnamese restaurants. Duang Dara, a Thai restaurant in the neighborhood, is authentic and accomplished. Try the larb , a spicy appetizer made from ground chicken; it will blow the top of your head off. Somp tum , made from shredded papaya, is another memorable experience. There are more than a hundred dishes to choose from on this large and diverse menu, created by Vietnamese Beau Dolan and his Thai wife Penkae, but don’t ask Dolan how they taste. Thai food is just too spicy for him.

Hornblower Yacht Cruises, P.O. Box 1779, Newport Beach. Call (714) 548-8700 for further information.

Hornblower offers weekend dinner cruises in exotic Newport Harbor as an acceptable alternative to shore-bound dining drudgery, and brings it off with style. Chef Todd Mosher, a young Bay Area talent, keeps the menu simple and satisfying, limiting the options to three exquisitely prepared specialties. Accouterments, like an excellent trendy salad of oak leaf and chicory, and real San Francisco sourdough, reflect solid taste and good judgment. There is a dance band available for those who get antsy offshore. Also Sunday brunch.

Pascal, Plaza Newport, 1000 Bristol St., Newport Beach . (714) 752-0107 . Open Mondays through Fridays , 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Sundays through Thursdays, 6:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays till 10:30 p.m.

Pascal is the latest, brightest and most engaging of the small area restaurants serving unadulterated French cuisine. You don’t have to worry about being terrorized by the waiters or cream sauced to death in this charming country cottage. The chef, Pascal Olhats, is a Bocuse protege with solid area experience, and uses no artificial anything in his kitchen. Don’t miss a delightful Provencal fish soup appetizer, or a lamb salad redolent of sweet basil. An entree of sea bass, coated with thyme, and served in a tomato coulis, vaut le voyage (is worth the trip). Desserts are light and guiltless.

Magic Island, 3505 Oporto, Newport Beach. (714) 675-0900. Open Wednesdays through Saturdays from 6 p.m.; Sunday brunches at 9:30, 10:30 and noon.

There is no shortage of illusion at Magic Island, a one-time private club that has been recently opened to the public, but the illusion of dining often fails to materialize. The evening begins with a snappy show featuring first-rate magicians, and then proceeds to one of the myriad dining rooms where a stuffy, often overextended menu is offered. Less is more here: Simpler fare like grilled meats and plain salads tend to upstage the flashier performers, like anything stuffed or sauced. You are going to have a good time at Magic Island, but at present, it is the kitchen that needs magic. Expensive.

Taiko, 14775 Jeffrey Road, Irvine. (714) 559-7190. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.

Taiko, a trendy sushi bar in an Irvine shopping mall, actually is the rara avis among Japanese restaurants that seems to appeal to both Japanese and American taste. It is a cultural encounter every time you dine. The menu has both the exotic (baby crab, deep-fried abalone with vinegar sauce) and the mundane (chicken teriyaki), but anything prepared by the white-hatted chefs is apt to be done with style. If you want the best of Taiko, you had better sit at the long sushi bar. Many of the most interesting items are not brought to the tables. The Japanese have never been long on compromise.

Parker’s Seafood Grill, 309 Palm St., Newport Beach. (714) 673-3741. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Parker’s Seafood Grill had its maiden voyage recently and already is afloat on a steady course. It is a tried-and-true formula with an elegant twist: fresh fish, an ocean view, and the added appeal of an open kitchen and mesquite. The eclectic menu features a wide variety of fresh seafoods which changes daily, and there is a chewy, yeasty house bread stick to compliment them. Desserts are sensational, all made on the premises, highlighted by pies, a smooth, creamy key lime, and a wonderful Toll House.

Eve ‘n Orleans, 1829 W. Katella, Anaheim. (714) 776-4022. Open Tuesdays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Tuesdays through Sundays 5 to 9 p.m.

Eve ‘n Orleans is simply smashing, a delight for lovers of Cajun and Creole cuisine. Owner/chef Joyce Washington is from Lake Charles, La., and her menu abounds with regional specialties: spicy fried chicken, seafood gumbo, crawfish etoufee , and sweet potato pie. One taste of her smothered pork chops--fried pork in a country style roux made from pepper, onion and secret spices--will make you beg for more. Red beans and rice are modestly sumptuous, and the homemade cole slaw is sweet and dreamy. A stop here is a must for anyone who thinks American regional cooking is just hype. Pure bliss, and cheap to boot.

Antonello, 3800 S. Plaza Drive, in the South Coast Plaza Village, Santa Ana. (714) 751-7153 . Open Mondays through Thursdays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 6 to 10 p.m.; Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 6 to 11 p.m.; Saturdays, 6 to 11 p.m.

Expect to be treated with courtly attention at this charming restaurant, where the main dining room is a miniature of a street scene in Bistagna, Italy. But you will probably be disappointed by what you eat. Appetizers from a lavish antipasto bar suffer from a surfeit of oil, albeit the extra virgin type, and homemade pastas are sometimes tired and flavorless. Owner Antonio Cagnolo has a wonderfully attentive staff and spares no expense for raw materials. Veal chops are thick and tender, beef is superbly marbled. One would think that this restaurant would be superb, with so many pluses. But at present, it’s the classic underachiever.

The Greek Corner, 520 Main St., Huntington Beach. (714) 960-3212. Open Mondays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Sundays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.

The Greek Corner is an odd-looking restaurant, with barely a hint of Greek decor, but it is full of Hellenic spirit and Mediterranean fire. Weekends, there is dancing on the dining room floor led by the proprietor, papa Loizides, and his wife Rodula who doubles as chef. Don’t expect your food to come out with any regularity. All dinners begin with fresh bread and tzatziki , an addictive appetizer made from yogurt, garlic, cucumber, mint, and olive oil. The spinach and cheese pie appetizers are the best in the area. Don’t miss the kota psiti , lemon marinated baked chicken, or pastitsio , a noodle casserole.

Mimi’s Cafe, five Orange County locations: 1240 N. Euclid, Anaheim, (714) 535-1552; 1835 E. Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 722-6722; 7935 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove, (714) 898-5022; 17231 E. 17th St., Tustin, (714) 544-5522; 18342 Imperial Highway, Yorba Linda, (714) 996-7650. Open daily 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Mimi’s Cafe has 10 Southland locations boasting identical menus and decor. There is almost always a line to get in. The menu includes soups, salads, sandwiches and breakfasts along with such entrees as mesquite broiled fish and a host of (commercially) baked desserts. The kittenish and busy decor hints at France, though from the outside, the places looks like gingerbread houses. Food at Mimi’s tastes much like what the French think American food is: abundant sugar and salt, abundant period. A few things are good, like the burgers, muffins and egg dishes, but overall, it’s little more than a glorified coffee shop. It’s cheap, at least.

The Golden Truffle, 1767 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa. (714) 645-9858 . Open Tuesdays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Tuesdays through Thursdays 6 to 9:30 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays 6 to 10 p.m.

The Golden Truffle is an eccentric restaurant with an eclectic menu that defies rhythm or logic. Chef Alan Greeley is whimsical; he cooks for the sheer pleasure of it, and it mostly tastes terrific. Bay shrimp cocktail Yucatan is like a combination gazpacho-ceviche, with tiny shrimp and chunky pieces of avocado, immobilized in a thick, tangy puree of tomato and chili. Broiled marinated skirt steak with pinto beans and cactus is a triumph. Nothing else on the menu will prepare you for it. There is a wide selection of premium wines and bistro-like desserts. The ambiance is relaxed and casual.

Mi Rincon, 7001 S. Bristol St., Santa Ana . (714) 836-9482 . Open daily except Monday s from noon to 9 p.m., weekends until 10 p.m.

Mi Rincon specializes in Peruvian cuisine, a mingling of Indian and Spanish influences with a host of original twists. Ceviche, the seafood appetizer of marinated raw fish so often identified as Mexican, is really Peruvian in origin, and Maria Leva, the chef here, makes one of the best versions ever. Papas a la Huancaina is a classic dish from northern Peru, whole boiled potatoes blanketed with a rich sauce made from cheese, cream, chili, and olive oil. Arroz con pato is an amazing braised duck specialty with coriander rice. Watch out for Inca Cola, a pale yellow monstrosity that tastes like liquid bubble gum. Everything else is a delight.

Orange Blossom, 3804 E. Chapman, Orange. (714) 633-1888. Open daily from 4:30 p.m.

Beijing, 2940 E. Chapman, Orange . (714) 744-2491. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Orange Blossom and Beijing are two radically different Chinese restaurants within shouting distance of one another on Chapman Avenue in the city of Orange. Orange Blossom is a dinner house that faces West in spirit, Beijing is primarily a lunch place with an Eastern bent. Orange Blossom has innovative dishes like butterfly eggplant with a cream cheese filling, and minced pigeon in lettuce cups. Beijing has terrific Mandarin chicken in a vinegary sauce, and twice cooked pork, a fiery Szechuan specialty that has been boiled, then pan fried with vegetables. Both restaurants are winners.

Capriccio Italiano Ristorante, 25830 Marguerite Parkway, Village Mall, Mission Viejo. (714) 855-6866. Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 4 to 9:30; weekends 4 to 9:30.

Capriccio may mean “whim” in Italian, but there is nothing whimsical about the food in this restaurant; it is polished and sophisticated. For my money, it is a real find. The kitchen is run by two brothers from Palermo, Sal and Franco Maniaci, but there is barely a trace of Sicilan influence in the dishes they serve. Appetizers like vitello tonnato and lumache del bosco are marvelous, and pastas are fresh and homemade. Many main dishes have French overtones, like a stylish lamb rack with truffles and foie gras , or a civet of hare called lepre salmi. Cappriccio’s location is modest, and so are prices, but its class is obvious.

Dewi, 1762 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 637-1101, and 9606 Hamilton Ave., Huntington Beach, (714) 962-4446. Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Hurry over--while there is still time--to Dewi in Orange, a small Indonesian restaurant/grocery store hidden among commercial properties along a busy avenue. Nasi rames is a mixed rice plate with a whole cookbook full of Indonesian goodies, and the restaurant has fabulous barbecued chicken and hot stewed beef dishes. Owner Edith Vredevoogd is constantly preparing little snacks like lemper , a sticky rice roll filled with minced chicken, or cendol , mysterious green bits taken with crushed ice, syrup and jackfruit. Don’t despair if you miss the Orange restaurant, though. There is a second Dewi run by Mrs. V’s brother in Huntington Beach. Exotica at its best.

JW’s, in the Anaheim Marriott Hotel, 700 W. Convention Way, Anaheim . (714) 750-0900 . Open Mondays through Saturdays, 6 to 9 p.m.

JW’s is one of those staunchly old-school special occasion restaurants, but the food is somewhat innovative and of surprisingly high quality. Appetizers show a certain daring, like home grown foie gras served on a potato galette in a Madeira sauce, or escargot ravioli with wild mushrooms. Main dishes show enthusiasm as well, and the sauces accompanying them are generally big hits. Roast boar comes drenched with a simple sauce of sage, juniper and honey, and has a robust spiciness. Venison comes in a sauce based on red wine vinegar. Prices are definitely on the high end, service attentive and manicured. It is fail-safe the way only a good hotel restaurant can be.

Best Place Restaurant, 9693 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove. (714) 638-3600. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Korean cuisine is remarkable--full of musk and smoky flavors. A stretch of Garden Grove Boulevard has a number of places to experience it. Look no further: Best Place Restaurant, a barbecue house serving stews, grills, griddles, and even sushi should satisfy all your needs. Try the gool bo sam , a large platter of raw oysters, salt pork, white radish and Chinese cabbage; you roll everything up and eat it like a taco. Pa jeon is a giant pancake with green onion, pork, and red pepper. Sit on low cushions and barbecue beef on a tableside grill, just like the Korean families do it. Remarkably addictive.

La Mer Genkai, 540 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (714) 497-6799. Open daily from 5:30 p.m.

La Mer Genkai is a restaurant with something for everybody: the food is Frenchified Japanese, with more than a hint of California thrown in for good measure. Belly up to the sushi bar for such designer treats as “dynamite,” a seaweed wrapped cone with tuna, daikon sprouts and Japanese chili. Or sit in the woodsy dining room with the pink back lighting and ape at sauteed duck in rasberry butter served rose petal style and simple salmon teriyaki. Both traditional and non-traditional dishes are given a field day in this noisy, exuberant restaurant. Yuppies are especially welcome.

The Clay Oven, 15345 Jeffrey Road, Irvine. (714) 552-2851. Open Tuesdays through Sundays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:30 to 10:30.

The Clay Oven is an Indian restaurant inauspiciously located in a country shopping mall and specializing in dishes from the tandoor, the authentic oven advertised by the restaurant’s name. Fish tikka, here made with chunks of broiled swordfish, is downright heavenly, and tandoori chicken, rubbed red with a spice mixture and broiled until sizzling, is another winner. There is an interesting selection of vegetable dishes, as well. Wash everything down with giant bottles of imported Indian beer and lament the fact that most of the really exotic specialties you see displayed on the menu won’t be available.

Sun Hai, 8940 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove, Suite 114. (714) 552-2851. Open daily except Mondays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:30 to 10:30.

This tiny hole-in-the-mini-mall, in a quiet Korean neighborhood in Garden Grove, serves some of the best Chinese dumplings you will ever taste, at laughably low prices. Best are pan-fried dumplings, eight to an order, perfectly browned, crunchy, and toothsome, eaten with rice vinegar and Korean chili paste. Also wonderful is the restaurant’s spicy fried chicken, a sumptuously blended dish of red and green chili, green onion, and little bits of batter-fried chicken that have been rolled in pepper salt. Nobody here speaks very good English, but the smiles generated by the food are more than you will need to communicate.

The Wine Cellar at the Newporter Resort, 1107 Jamboree Road, Newport Beach . (714) 644-1700 . Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 6 to 10 p.m.

The Wine Cellar is Orange County’s newest temple of haute cuisine . Menus are rotated every week and consist of five courses, designed by Jean Banchet of Le Francais in Wheeling, Ill., one of the most famous chefs in the world today. Menu VI--which begins with a cold pheasant pate with green chartreuse, continues with a stuffed filet of sole in a champagne sauce, and features grilled squab with green cabbage and natural juices--is one of six prie fixe menus presented by executive chef Ted Gray, and it is a knockout. You won’t find better French cuisine anywhere in the state.

Marrakesh, 1100 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach . (714) 645-8384. Open weekdays 6 to 10 p.m., weekends 5:30 to 11 p.m.

Eat with your fingers without fear of recrimination from your mother at Marrakesh, a Moroccan restaurant in Newport Beach. You sit on cushions at a low table in a tent-like room and manhandle your way through a traditional, multi-course dinner served by waiters in desert garb. Begin with harira , the spicy lentil broth, and assorted salads eaten with local bread. B’stilla , a chicken and egg pie topped with cinnamon and sugar, will follow, and then a choice of main dishes including quail, rabbit and couscous, the grain staple eaten throughout North Africa. It is a sensual, completely delightful way to spend an evening.

Anh Hong, 10195 Westminster Ave., Garden Grove. (714) 537-5230. Open Mondays through Thursdays 3 to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Anh Hong is a Vietnamese restaurant for beef lovers only; the specialty is a seven-course beef dinner that would bring a trucker to his knees. You start with a flavorful beef salad topped with a sweet vinegar sauce and then experience a variety of courses ranging from fondue to grilled sausages wrapped in Hawaiian lot leaf. Service is warm and attentive, and the waiters will show how the various courses should be eaten. It is an encounter with Vietnamese culture as well as a culinary adventure. For $9.95, there is probably no greater value anywhere. Just make sure you go on an empty stomach.

Watercolors, at the Dana Point Resort, 25125 Park Lantern, Dana Point . (714) 661-5000. Open daily 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

California cuisine looks even more exotic at the new, Cape Cod-style Watercolors restaurant. Chef Peter Striffolino has put together a menu filled with local delicacies, like Pacific oysters baked with leeks and spinach, Sonoma goat cheese with red oak lettuce, and medallions of lamb with red cabbage and papaya chutney. The restaurant is tastefully put together as well, with a broad view, spacious seating, and first-class appointments, but the experience there is somewhat marred by erratic service. Watercolors should be first-class too . . . as soon as the paint dries.

Dover’s, at the Doubletree Hotel, 100 E. The City Drive, Orange . (714) 634-4500. Open weekdays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., daily 5:30 to 10.

Dover’s at the Doubletree Hotel in Orange is an eye-catching restaurant with a ceiling over three stories high, and an eclectic collection of objets d’art that gives the restaurant the feeling of a museum, but the cooking is often less lofty. Chef Steve Lancaster attempts too much, and the result is an erratic jumble of good and bad. Salmon tartare is wonderfully silky and big enough to share, and appetizers are generally impressive, especially a seafood sausage in a bed of green and white linguini. Entrees lean toward the exotic; avoid the Pacific Rim dishes (except for the tea-poached salmon, which is great), and pursue the simpler dishes. Dessert is dreary. Ambiance is dressy.

Bangkok IV, 3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa. (714) 540-7661 . Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (weekends until 10).

Now they have really done it. They have opened an upscale Thai restaurant in a shopping mall--South Coast Plaza’s Crystal Court. What next? Bangkok IV is operated by veteran Lucky Teachanarong, and his newest outing is a flat-out winner. Appetizers like taro todd , Balboa mussels, and Thai toasts are terrific, and main dishes like paht Thai (flat noodles pan-fried with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts) and pork with green beans in dry curry paste aren’t far behind. Food tends to be on the sweet side here, but the management will turn up the heat on request. Now you have been warned. There are even some excellent homemade desserts.

Chez Cary, 571 S. Main St., Orange . (714) 542-3595 . Open daily 6:30 to 9:30 p.m .

Chez Cary is like a dry-docked cruise ship; luxurious, fitted speciously, and caught in a time warp. The main dining room is a mausoleum of crystal and red velvet, and service is conspicuously understated by teams of waiters and captains pushing flaming carts and sweeping through the dining room. Musicians are never far behind. Don’t bother with the beluga or the foie gras , which are priced out of reality, but do enjoy traditional goodies like escargot , Dover sole, steak au poivre , veal chops, and volaille a la Bourgeoie , the latter a breast of capon in an unctuous sauce of bacon, onion, and carrots. For heaven’s sake, don’t forget your dinner jacket.

Mr. Stox, 1105 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim. (714) 634-2994. Open Mondays through Fridays 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., daily 5:30 to 10 p.m.

Mr. Stox is not the name of a new board game about insider trading. It is a restaurant, and a very accomplished one at that. The design is ordinarily plush, but the menu is full of surprises; pureed black bean soup with a fresh pepper salsa, mesquite-grilled duck salad with a sesame oil vinaigrette and a sumptuously carved lamb rack, basted with fresh rosemary grown in one of the restaurant’s back gardens. If you have a healthy expense account, you can indulge in one of America’s most celebrated wine lists, which features a wide selection of great Bordeauxs and Burgundies. Semi-dressy, and surprisingly consistent.

Aurora Ristorante, 1341 S. Euclid St., Fullerton. (714) 738-0272. Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Mondays through Saturdays 5 to 10 p.m.

Aurora Ristorante looks as if it belongs in another age, with its tuxedoed waiters, a dimly pink ambiance and classic preparations too rich for the blood of the ‘80s. Chef-owner Leo Holczer has a taste for the traditional, but he tempers it with such exotic specials as alligator, buffalo and wild game birds. Pastas are rich and creamy, and there is a wonderful wine list with a wealth of vintage Italian reds. The music gets to be a bit much, though, particularly when a live organist is straining to be heard over a pianist playing for a private party in an adjoining banquet room.

Bistango, 19100 Von Karman Ave., Irvine. (714) 752-5222. Open daily 11:15 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:15 to midnight.

Bistango is a visually stunning new restaurant with an open kitchen, high-tech lines and the feel of a contemporary art museum. The kitchen has potential, but service is inexperienced and the management seems more concerned with appearance than with maintaining a standard. Outstanding appetizers include duck sausage with polenta, carpaccio of veal and beef and Maryland crab cakes with pink grapefruit and mache lettuce. Pastas also highlight this Italianate menu, created by executive chef Eugenio Martignago, a veteran of the restaurant wars on Los Angeles’ Westside. Desserts are nearly as stunning as the surroundings. Don’t leave without trying the three-chocolate terrine. When Bistango matures, look for greatness.

The Bouzy Rouge Cafe, 3110 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach. (714) 673-3440. Open daily 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Newport Beach’s trend-setting restaurant and wine bar has a new menu featuring tapas, Spanish appetizers designed to tickle the palate and stimulate a powerful thirst at the bar. Owner Tony Hermann, in a bid to infuse his eclectic European kitchen with fresh blood, has taken an interesting gamble in the process, creating dishes that are at once complex and original. But the gamble fails: Tapas belong on the bar, not in the kitchen. One is better off sticking to Bouzy’s old favorites and its delicious wine list. It is still a delightful place, but forget those tapas.

South of Santa Fe, 777 S. Main St., Orange. (714) 972-9900. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

There is plenty of corn in this new Southwestern spinoff from the good folks who run El Cholo and the Sonora Cafe. Service is sprightly, decor is cheerfully bizarre, and the menu is filled with things that your Mexican grandmother never dreamed of: confetti jicama salad, duck tamales and tequila ice cream. The concept fails when the kitchen tries to get too creative for its own good, so you had better stick to old standbys, such as El Cholo combinations, and new standbys, such as the superb fajitas. If you must have innovation, though, there are fine chilis stuffed with goat cheese, an excellent swordfish in a tomato salsa and interesting desserts.

The Pavilion, 690 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (714) 760-4920. Open daily 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Hotel restaurants often are below standard, but the Pavilion is a cut above. Chef Esther Carpenter is innovative and adventurous, and her menu is filled with imagination. Especially good are a luxurious lobster and prosciutto sandwich served at lunch and a dinner-time veal chop, a deliciously heavy creation stuffed with Roquefort cheese and blanketed with a pecan sauce. There is a special spa menu for those conscious of fitness, and the selection is wonderful. Don’t miss the Japanese-style pasta with seafood, or the ethereally dressed salads. Surroundings are elegant, and the restaurant is priced to match.