Four to the Fore : New Chardonnays Attest to the Sebastiani Label’s Ongoing Vitality

A LITTLE MORE than a year ago, I visited Sebastiani Vineyards in Sonoma to taste a series of varietals for projected release in the spring and fall of 1988. First up was the 1983 Richard Cuneo Cuvee de Chardonnay Champagne, followed by four vineyard-designated Chardonnays and two vineyard-designated Cabernets. Then came a tasting of seven Sebastiani Family wines: a Gewurztraminer, a Reserve Chardonnay, a Symphony dessert wine dedicated to Sylvia Sebastiani--widow of winery founder August Sebastiani, a Proprietors Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, an absolutely knockout 1985 Premium Sonoma County Merlot, a Country Zinfandel, and a Premium 1983 Zinfandel--a $5 bargain.

A recent tasting in Orange County marked the release of those four vineyard-designated Chardonnays after one year. (The Cabernets will be released this fall.)

We began with a re-tasting of the handsomely packaged, slope-shouldered, classic 18th-Century-style bottle of Richard Cuneo 1983 Cuvee de Chardonnay, a Methode Champenoise Sonoma County Sparkling Wine ($14). Three years on the yeasts, it has an aristocratic fine bead, a toasty nose and a long, rich, almost buttery body adding to the pleasing complexity.

Now, as to the vineyard-designated Chardonnays:

Clark Ranch 1986 Sonoma Valley Chardonnay ($14): This is 100% barrel-fermented wine, with full malolactic fermentation. It is round, soft and opulent, with a hint of apple in its clean bouquet--a charming wine.

Kinnebrook 1986 Sonoma Valley Chardonnay ($14): With partial (50%) barrel fermentation, and aged four months in Nevers oak, this wine is silky and lemony and, after a year, is still a winner. It’s a graceful wine.

Niles 1986 Sonoma Valley Chardonnay ($17): The least developed wine a year ago, this is the late bloomer of the lot. Here is full barrel fermentation, 100% malolactic fermentation leading to its buttery richness and seductive depths of complexity. There’s a toasty background of bouquet. This is truly regal Chardonnay.

Wilson Ranch 1986 Sonoma Valley Chardonnay ($14): This Sebastiani-owned and -worked vineyard in the Carneros region produces cool-region fruit. The result is a delicate wine--100% barrel-fermented, with balanced tastes, malolactic fermentation softening the character, and an unobtrusive background of French oak.

Almost four years ago, a Sebastiani family feud led to general concern about the company’s future. It’s good to be able to report so positively on the house of Sebastiani. President Don Sebastiani, wine maker Mary Sullivan and communications director Jim Knapp are heading up a winery at peace and with fine production.

Meanwhile, former president Sam Sebastiani and his wife, Vicki, have their own winery. Sam J. Sebastiani Wines, launched in 1986, has been creating wines that reflect the best of vineyards in both Napa and Sonoma. To minimize confusion, these fine vintaged Chardonnays, Cabernets and Sauvignon Blancs are emerging under the name Viansa. Look for them.