Dawn Patrol:
I’ve never been one for resolutions, but I do like to get into the water on New Year’s Day if only to splash around and feel good about saying, “I’ve been out every day this year.”
It starts things off on a positive note.
Looking back on 2009, I remember a lot of good surfing conditions, especially from mid-summer on. We had so many bright sunny days with no morning overcast, unusually warm water that lasted into November, and it seems like there was always something to ride.
Then there was the monster south swell that coincided with the U.S. Open of Surfing at Huntington Beach. The Wedge at its wildest and the summer spots firing with all the pros in town. That had to be one of the surfing highlights of the year.
The winter has been good too, a lot of big swells hitting Hawaii that made for great Triple Crown and Eddie Aikau contests. Some of those swells missed parts of Orange County, but if you were willing to drive a little you could find good waves.
This year I became more aware of the surfing community.
I experienced people pulling together to help those in trouble and others putting their energy into worthwhile causes like the “Pipeline to a Cure” for Cystic Fibrosis, and the “Paddle for Fun” by Boys Hope Girls Hope that helps disadvantaged children.
I saw the creative surfers like Rob Havassy, who just released his book of surfing art and photography, and musicians Bob Colwell, Tracy Longstreth and Matt Quilter who have documented the history of surf music.
I met some young surfers such as Blake Davis from Newport Harbor High, as well as Brooks Westervelt from Sage Hill School, along with a few surfing legends and some new surfing friends.
One of my favorite things was meeting Laird Hayes and the great group of individuals in his Orange Coast College surfing class. I was invited to their annual road trip to San Onofre and it was a fun day.
I met a young guy from Compton who got his pilot’s license at age 16 and drives to Newport for Laird’s class, and a young woman from Switzerland who’s a natural on a surfboard. Most importantly I saw how they’re learning about surfing as a lifestyle and attitude.
They are the surfers who’ll leave the beach cleaner than they found it, bring a positive attitude and take responsibility for protecting the ocean and coastline.
Another inspiration was the day my friend Rat Jr. and I surfed Doheny with “The Three Wise Men,” Ross McAdam, Fred Casserio and Don Benson, still going at or near 80.
Yes, good times, and I’m thinking the 2010 half of the winter will produce plenty of surf. It may not seem like El Niño is still in effect but it is.
I know the surf forecasters are expecting more big Pacific storms in January and February. So here’s wishing you good waves in the new year and the time to enjoy them.
JOHN BURTON’S surf column appears Fridays. He may be reached by e-mail at [email protected].
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