Restaurant Review:

There is one table at Amelia’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant on Balboa Island that, depending on your point of view, is either the most coveted or the most intrusive.

I would like to hope that the majority of people think of it as the most coveted. I certainly fall into that category, and was quite pleased when my guest and I were able to secure it on a recent visit.

The only way I could see someone believing it’s intrusive is because it is in front of the restaurant, and there is a good amount of foot traffic and peering in to see what you are eating or drinking.

I think the amount of privacy the two diners get at this table is sufficient and is not worth passing up if you are offered it. I like the coziness of the table that is outside of the restaurant but semi-enclosed by decorative metal fencing.

It is without a doubt the most romantic table in the restaurant, but this is a restaurant that exudes romance. The quaintness of the dining room inside is just as charming.

No matter where you sit, the food will be outstanding. This has been one of the fixtures on the island for decades, and the quality of the cuisine is a big part of its longevity.

As inventive as the entrees are, the appetizers are fairly benign. The usual Italian restaurant offerings of bruschetta, calamari, antipasto and mozzarella with tomatoes and basil are available.

It was the entrees that attracted me here, especially the seafood pasta combinations.

The two specials that I find most appealing are the calamari Irma and the calamari Amelia.

Both are calamari steaks with crab stuffed inside. The Irma has a cream sherry sauce and is broiled. The Amelia, which is broiled, has mozzarella cheese and marinara sauce.

On this trip, the Amelia was fantastic. The dish is so decadent, and I savored every bite. I liked that they broiled it, which kept the flavors fresh inside and let the cheese slowly melt into the dish.

One of the restaurant’s concepts that I really like is the fresh fish sampler. They have two pieces of fish that they serve with vegetables and a side dish of linguine and clams. For $2 more, you can order three pieces.

The portions of the fish are pretty generous, though not completely full size, but I still think it is a pretty good price at $24.50 for three pieces of fish. Plus, I like the variety of it.

One of my favorites — and it is getting increasingly more difficult to find — is a good bowl of bouillabaisse. I love the soup-based entree that is packed with everything from clams to mussels to crab to chunks of fish.

Amelia’s has a good bouillabaisse, and they even put in lobster, which not a lot of places do. It is packed with fish and shellfish and, if you like that dish, you can’t go wrong ordering it here.

While there is an emphasis on seafood dishes, the Italian pasta dishes at Amelia’s are just as strong.

The fettuccine with spicy chicken breast and marinara is a good combination and something I had never seen in an Italian restaurant before.

The penne with eggplant tomato sauce also looked intriguing.

On my next visit I am going to try one of the baked Italian dishes. The cannelloni or manicotti is high on my list.

I liked that I could combine the two dishes as one entree and get smaller portions.

This is an institution on the island and a restaurant that everyone should try at least once. My guess is, though, after you try it, you won’t be able to stay away for very long.

Amelia’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant

Address: 311 Marine, Ave., Balboa Island

Phone: (949) 673-6580

Website: www.ameliasbalboaisland.com

Cuisine: Italian

Specialty dish: Calamari Amelia

Alcohol served: Full bar

Entrée price range: $14.50 to $34

Family friendly: yes

Credit cards accepted: American Express, MasterCard and Visa

Rating: *** 1/2

JOHN REGER reviews local restaurants and may be contacted at [email protected] or P.O. Box 2984, Seal Beach, CA 90740.