Surfing Laguna: Giving thanks, surfer style

With the season of Thanks- giving upon us, the time is right to shed light on just a few of the special moments that keep surfers “stoked” “” which loosely translated is a combination of thankful, content and joyous.

Every surfer has his or her unique list; here is a brief look at mine:

When the surf report says your local spot will have six-foot waves and clean for the next several days.

For the beauty of a brand new surfboard when you go to pick it up from the shaper and for the dreams you dream of riding your new toy.

The smile a kid has when they get a great wave and they hear you cheering them on in delight.

Sharing surf memories with old friends.

The bond surfers share throughout the world.

For the days that are uncrowded, with just friends from the neighborhood.

The days that are crowded with the right vibe.

The smell of surf wax, preferably root beer and how it takes you way back in time.

Catching a big, beautiful set wave at dusk and riding it all the way to shore, legs burning from exhaustion.

Sharing a wave with a dolphin or two.

Seagrass that runs through your toes while waiting for a wave.

The taste of food after an all-day session “” everything tastes exquisite especially turkey and Mexican grinds.

The peace that comes in the lineup, the best time to say thanks.

CHRIS WILLIAMS is a surfing coach and Laguna Beach resident, and father of four surf-crazy sons. He can be reached at [email protected] or (949) 497-5918.