RESTAURANT REVIEW:

My first exposure to El Ranchito was one night a few years ago when a friend and I were prowling around Newport Beach. We stopped in for a drink with the hopes of finding the perfect woman.

The more we drank the more that possibility was drifting away, and drowning your sorrows can actually build up a little appetite.

The bartender recommended the fresco burrito. We had calories galore with the margaritas we were drinking, and the fresco was a better alternative to the regular burritos, though not by much, but at that point we really didn’t care.

This one doesn’t have sour cream in it and uses low-fat Monterey jack cheese. There is a choice of charbroiled chicken, steak or fish, usually cod, but sometimes mahi mahi. Stuffed in the burrito that is served room temperature is pico de gallo sauce, onions, cilantro, chopped lettuce, tomatoes, rice and guacamole.

It was incredible and made me realize — at least at that moment — that I didn’t need liquor or women.

But I do need El Ranchito. The food there has been far more comforting than most women I have met.

The restaurant began nearly 40 years ago in Huntington Park. Mama Avila brought her recipes with her when she came to this country from Guanajuato, Mexico and the family opened its first location.

The Newport Beach location has been around since 1975 and is one of three in the area. Corona del Mar and Costa Mesa are the other two.

One of the restaurant’s famous items is the bowl of Mama Avila’s soup. The bowl is large and could be an entrée it is so big. The soup contains chicken breast, rice vegetables and a smooth broth that has the taste of cilantro.

Another specialty is the pollo Cuernavaca, which is chicken breast with Ortega chiles, onion, beans and rice. The salsa tomatillo is a nice touch and adds to the dish.

Pepe’s Special is another favorite. The grilled filet mignon and onion is lean and delicious with the chile added to it. It also comes with chicken, but I prefer the filet.

The last visit I had a combination and El Ranchito has eight items they offer to make a combination. The combinations are $10.95 for two items and I didn’t see a possibility for a third item. I did see one item for $9.45 which struck me as not a combination at all, unless we are counting the rice and beans.

But I was more interested in food than semantics so I pressed on and ordered an enchilada de tomatillo and flautas. The enchilada is filled with chicken and covered with red tomato sauce and low fat cheese. I couldn’t tell that it was low fat cheese and the dish was very enjoyable.

The one item in the combination category that I would like to try is the chile relleno.

The restaurant is famous for them and it is really difficult to get an authentic homemade chile relleno, but I have had people rave about them to me.

If you like ceviche, the shrimp ceviche is quite good. It has shrimp marinated in lime juice with spices. It is just tart enough and the shrimp was firm, but tender.

The baja bowl is a nice mix of either filet mignon, chicken or fish on top of rice, black beans, avocado, salsa and cilantro.

Something that should also not be missed is the strawberry churros. The dish is covered in strawberry syrup and whipped cream.

It is a decadent way to end a meal and a unique dessert that is a great alternative to flan or deep-fried ice cream.

AVILA’S EL RANCHITO

ADDRESS: 2800 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach

PHONE: (949) 675-6855

CUISINE: Mexican

SPECIALTY DISH: Chile relleno

ALCOHOL SERVED: Full bar

ENTRÉE PRICE RANGE: $3.95 to $15.95

FAMILY FRIENDLY: Yes, six-item menu

CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED: American Express, MasterCard and Visa

RATING: ***

JOHN REGER reviews restaurants for the Independent.