THE GOSSIPING GOURMET:Food delights, but service under par

For many years, Italian food in America meant “red sauce” cuisine: spaghetti and meatballs, manicotti or lasagna.

But the second coming of Italian restaurants that reached its peak about five years ago, when it seemed that every other new restaurant was Italian, brought a new sensibility.

This recent wave is typified by an extensive variety that represents all the regions of Italy. Perhaps, one of the reasons for its popularity is that Italian cuisine is about the freshest local ingredients, simply prepared.

Modo Mio, located in the middle of the Crystal Cove shopping center reflects this trend. Look for the dark green awnings that announce the presence of this handsome, contemporary spot.

As you step inside, there is an aisle, bordered on both sides by attractive wooden wine cabinets, dividing the dining area in two. On one side is the open kitchen and on the other a small bar. Each high ceiling room is divided once again with archways creating two intimate nooks next to the windows.

Upon entering, we noticed a “Help Wanted” sign in the window. We were seated by a passing waiter, given our menus by another and yet a third took our order. Two of the three declared that this was their first night on the job. After ordering, a plate of raw marinated mushrooms arrived, compliments of the chef. It was quite a generous portion, not the usual one-bite “amuse bouche.” Dressed with a light lemon vinaigrette, made with good-quality olive oil, it exemplified our favorite kind of Italian dish: fresh ingredients, simply prepared.

For our first antipasto, we selected guazzetto di calamaretti described as sautéed calamari in a light tomato sauce. What arrived was a pleasant surprise.

Actually it was a soup: rings of calamari floating in a light tomato broth infused with the calamari juices and made piquant by olives and capers. It is a nice departure from the more familiar fried dish.

The next day, we looked up the unfamiliar term “guazzetto” and discovered it means a soup or light stew. We’d love to see more of this around town.

Our next surprise was less pleasant, since our entrées arrived before our second appetizer, and we sent them back. The young waiter who took our order very sweetly apologized and said it was his fault. After a short wait, our insalata di carciofi arrived. These fresh, sliced baby artichokes in lemon dressing were topped with Parmesan shavings but were quite bland. Even with the addition of salt and pepper, there was no discernable flavor other than cheese.

Perhaps you might want to try some of the other antipasto choices, such as the torta rustica, a pastry shell filled with spinach, ricotta and prosciutto; or an antipasto all’ Italiana, with prosciutto, mortadella, salami, artichokes and provolone.

We were concerned when we sent our entrées back that they might just be reheated and replated and, since they were both pasta dishes, we feared for their lives. We cannot say with absolute certainty that this was their fate, but we must report that they were definitely overcooked and arrived at the table less than piping hot.

The house-made smoked chicken ravioli had a very flavorful filling, but the sauce, a yellow bell pepper puree, was beyond mild and didn’t enhance or balance the tasty stuffing.

Tagliatelle verdi con pollo, a spinach pasta with chicken, arugula, fresh and sun dried tomato, contained very little chicken and too much sweet tomato sauce.

Pasta in Italy is traditionally served with more pasta and less sauce. Here, the reverse was true. Even this might have been forgivable if the pasta had some tooth. We are sure they know how to cook pasta at Modo Mio, and so we must attribute the problem to reheating. The gentleman at the next table had a plate of this same tagliatelle that arrived steaming and looked properly cooked. Naturally, we asked, and he said that his was al dente.

There are three other house-made pastas: ravioli with spinach and ricotta, ravioli with chicken and spinach, and gnocchi in tomato pesto cream sauce. Once again, we favor appetizers and pastas over the classic entrées when eating Italian, but if we had room, we would have tried the cioppino, a seafood stew, or the cotoletta alla Milanese, a pounded, breaded veal cutlet. Steaks, lamb chops, veal scallopine and four different chicken breast dishes are also offered.

The small dessert listing features gelato, sorbetto and tartufo as well as the obligatory tiramisu.

The house special for the evening was described as an apple tart. However what arrived was a deep-dish apple pie with an undercooked crust and an overcooked filling.

What to do? Have tiramisu! Their version was subtle, pleasant and very fresh tasting.