Swiss chard earns green at market

Terry Markowitz and Elle Harrow

Every Saturday, for almost a year now, Kao and Yeng Her get up in the

middle of the night to make the long journey to the Laguna Beach

Farmers Market from their farm in Fresno to sell their vibrant

vegetables.

This couple, originally from Laos, have been farming here for four

years. You will not find them on the farmers’ market circuit; only in

Laguna. When asked why they sell exclusively here, Yang replied with

a shy, sweet smile. “We like it here!” The charms of Laguna have once

again brought us yet another blessing with the Her’s bounty of

beautiful produce.

They present a wide variety both Asian and Western. They sell bok

choy, yu choy, yam leaf, gai-lan, bittermelon leaf, saluyot, daikon

and snow peas as well as many different kinds of squash, fennel, fava

beans, beets, turnips, three kinds of basil, dill, mint and parsley,

just to mention a few.

This week they also had red and yellow swiss chard.

This versatile, healthy vegetable is a cousin of the beet. Both

it’s stems and leaves are edible. The dark green leaves have a

texture similar to spinach and a flavor slightly more intense but not

bitter. It is low in calories, but rich in potassium, calcium, iron

and fiber, while the stems are high in beta-carotene. At the farmers

market, almost any bunch will do because it’s always fresh, but when

buying it at the store, look for bright green leaves without yelllow

or brown spots and stems that look juicy and crisp and are no more

than 1/2 -inch wide.

Wider ribs may be cooked separately. The chard from the Her farm

is relatively clean, but all chard must be soaked in cool water and

drained twice, then rinsed before using.

Here are two recipes -- one is a basic recipe that can also be

used with other leafy greens such as spinach, bok choy and yu choy.

Please note, because of it’s high water content, swiss chard reduces

in volume when cooked even more than spinach. Two bunches of chard

will yield four servings.

SAUTEED SWISS CHARD: basic recipe with variations

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons crushed or chopped garlic

2 bunches swiss chard, sliced crosswise in 1/2-inch widths; discard last two inches of coarse stems

1/4 teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a large frying pan, saute garlic in olive oil for 30

seconds, then add chard and salt. Toss until coated with oil. Cover

pan, reduce heat and cook 4 to 5 minutes.

VARIATIONS:

1. Add 1/4 teaspoon chili flakes when sauteing garlic.

2. Add 1/2 chopped red bell pepper and/or 4 sliced shitake

mushrooms before adding chard and saute for 30 seconds.

3. Substitute 1 tablespoon oyster sauce for the salt.

4. Sprinkle with a teaspoon of grated lemon zest before serving.

5. For a low-fat version, saute in one tablespoon olive oil and

add 3 tablespoons chicken broth before covering pan.

SWISS CHARD PANCAKE: basic recipe and variations.

This irresistible dish from Chile can be served for brunch or as a

side dish. It lends itself to as many variations as you can think of.

Serves 4 for brunch; serves 8 as a side dish.

3 tablespoon olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

3 eggs

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

3 bunches chard, chopped, discard last two inches of

coarse stem

2 to 3 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a nonstick 12-inch frying pan, saute onions in 2 tablespoons

olive oil until well browned. Stir frequently to avoid burning.

2. In a large bowl, whisk eggs with salt and pepper. Add chard to

eggs and stir until all leaves are coated. If needed, add an

additional egg.

3. Add chard and egg mixture to frying pan with onions. Spread

evenly across bottom of pan with spatula. Cover pan and lower flame

to medium low.

Cook for 5 minutes. Lift edge of pancake with spatula to check if

it has browned. If not continue cooking.

When bottom has browned, remove cover and flip pancake onto a

plate. ( The easiest way to do this is to put plate on pan, then

using both hands turn pan upside down onto plate.)

4. Add remaining tablespoon of olive oil to pan. Then slide

pancake back into frying pan. Continue cooking uncovered until

browned and cooked through.

5. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese before serving.

VARIATIONS:

1. Saute half a chopped jalapeno with onions or to taste

2. Add to egg mixture before cooking any or all of the following:

a chopped red bell pepper

half a small can of chopped mild green chiles

1/4 cup chopped sun dried tomatoes

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

2 thinly sliced pre-cooked sausages, your choice

* Terry Markowitz and Elle Harrow owned A La Carte Restaurant

gourmet takeout and catering for 20 years in Laguna Beach, where they

live. They can be contacted via e-mail at [email protected].