An invitation to sample

Greer Wylder

In Newport Beach, 3-Thirty-3 has found a niche by being a little bit

different and hard to define.

The waterfront establishment serves appetizer-size dishes -- small

plates that allow you to sample more than one entree. And its stylish

decor makes you feel like you’re in Bali. The names of customers

celebrating birthdays are displayed each week on the marquee outside

the restaurant. It serves dinner until 1:15 a.m. nightly -- a rarity

in a community that tucks itself into bed early most nights.

The restaurant is the brainchild of Jeff Reuter, a well-connected

local, born and raised in Newport Beach.

“Jeff wanted a place with a comfortable atmosphere, a celebration

of his friends’ lives that also reflects the community,” said general

manager Dennis Bramnick. “It’s a place where you can feel just as

comfortable wearing oxford slacks after work, or in fishing wear

after boating.”

Costa Mesa-based Hatch Design Group, an architecture and interior

design company specializing in restaurant concepts, created

3-Thirty-3’s casually sophisticated look -- a mix of Bali modern and

craftsman style, based on Balinese architecture.

“This is not a nightclub, a sports bar or a traditional

restaurant,” Bramnick said. “People look at our six flat screens and

think we’re a sports bar. You’re more likely to see ‘Casablanca’ than

ESPN.”

The decor features tropical hardwoods, stacked flagstone, natural

cork flooring, lattice louvers and tea-stained rice paper

chandeliers. Hatch, which also created unique styles at Rouge, Chat

Noir and the Cannery, focuses on warm inviting lighting.

Executive chef Keith Casey, a Culinary Institute of America

graduate and former Roy’s chef, conceived the menu.

“I knew what would be winners from experience,” said Casey, 36.

“People really enjoy the potato-encrusted halibut. It’s a bold fish

as far as flavors, but it’s easy to prepare. The diver scallop is a

little bit different with rice bean ragout and pinot noir butter, and

everyone in their lifetime has made lobster bisque and French onion

soup, but it’s always good.”

Regional American cuisines influence his cooking, a residue from

his peripatetic youth -- he’s lived in 10 states.

Casey’s just as comfortable preparing Hawaiian specialty dishes as

he is making New England classics. He cooks a Hawaiian-style poke and

yuzo shisho vinaigrette served in martini glass ($9); sweet and salty

oven-roasted dates with blue cheese and crisp pancetta ($7); and a

miko mix -- an organic spicy green salad with candied pistachios and

heirloom tomatoes ($8).

Home-style dishes include the macaroni and cheese -- simply

Wisconsin cheddar and cream garnished with smoked bacon ($8), chicken

pot pie with herb roasted chicken, baby carrots and fresh peas in a

morel cream sauce ($11), and five peppercorn grilled filet mignon

with Bordeaux glace de viande and garlic spinach ($23).

Classic cheeseburgers are configured as “gourmet sliders.” There

are seven choices of miniature burgers served in pairs with a choice

of fillings, including pulled pork with onion salsa ($12),

chili-dusted ahi with spicy mustard and wakame (seaweed) ($14),

braised short ribs with tobacco onions and mashed potatoes ($13), and

cold smoked salmon with red onion confit and radish sprouts ($9).

A value-priced indulgence menu features farm-raised abalone from

Carlsbad served with lemon chive butter ($26), seared Hudson Valley

foie gras served with mission fig and raspberry gastrique ($16), and

Imperial Russian Osetra caviar -- 20 grams worth -- with traditional

garnish ($36).

Coming soon on Sunday mornings, there will be a

build-your-own-breakfast- burrito menu and a build-your-own-Bloody

Mary menu, so guests can mix their own drinks at a condiment table.

3-Thirty-3 serves also great specialty cocktails, martinis and

wines. There are 33 wines and three sparkling wines by the flight,

glass and bottle. The prestige wine list includes 20 to 30 bottles of

value-oriented wines-typically priced just $10 over retail.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626;

or by fax at (714) 966-4679.