Picayo entices with cuisine of the sun

Glori Fickling

It was something of a shock to learn that Picayo, the opulent

French-Mediterranean restaurant in Boat Canyon, has been sold.

Shocking because executive chef/owner Laurent Brazier and partner

David Rubin had achieved renown from the day they launched the site

in a tiny north Laguna storefront circa 1995. Their success continued

after completing elegant new quarters in September 2001.

But good news follows because the new owner is entrepreneur Hamid

Risdana, a long time Laguna Beach resident who has gained recognition

locally as principal of several highly successful business ventures

in our town.

Add to this the fact that Brazier has been retained as consulting

chef. This insures the caliber of cuisine will remain constant.

Further, the friendly waiters, Brandon, Tony and Mark, are all

continuing in the same competent capacity. Beyond all this, Risdana’s

enterprising son, Bizan, who has been studying culinary art with

Brazier at the Culinary Arts facility, is further honing his skills

here by participating in a range of endeavors.

Walk past the charming porch style entry and note the framed media

accolades and prestigious Zagat award adorning the corridor wall. One

or both of the personable Risdana’s will be on hand to greet your

party and offer a choice of settings. French provincial furnishings

characterize the front dining room; the more intimate Mediterranean

Room beckons with colorful wall murals and subdued lighting. This

lends a flattering golden glow to diners and illuminates capacious

wine goblets, fine china, glistening flatware and jewel-encircled

napkin rings. A welcoming basket of olive and sourdough breads with

whipped butter comes soon after seating along with chef’s

complimentary bouche. On a recent evening this was a delectable

little salmon/curry reyette sided with crisp wafers.

You may choose from an octave of starters priced from $8 to $9.50,

as many entrees tabbed at $18 to $24, and a dozen apres dinner

selections which start at $7. If you take advantage of the

three-course prix fixe menu at $30 you may select any starter, one of

two entrees and a dessert of raspberry creme brulee or fresh fruit

sorbets. Among ala carte openers, the unique presentation of

escargots is especially distinctive. The tender morsels are baked in

a trio of little porcelain cups drenched in savory garlic/parsley

butter, then posed around a delicious heap of lemon vinaigrette

dressed greens accented with crunchy grilled toast. For tastes of the

Mediterranean there’s hummus, pureed roasted eggplant and ratatouille

served with warm pita bread. Cadiz style shrimp cakes crown a bed of

saffron rice in tomato/red bell pepper sauce. A basil/tomato blend

distinguishes mushroom filled ravioli. And orange zest lends a flavor

twist to creamy lobster bisque.

Entrees are equally innovative. Picturesque presentations offered

include arrangement of sauteed monkfish, delicate, lobster-like

finfish medallions lightly seasoned with rosemary broth artfully

positioned around a creamy risotto island. Plump little steamed

mussels alternating with zucchini ovals frame the dish sprinkled with

a confetti of green onion. Exemplifying ala carte plates are

diversified recipes of provencale style jumbo sea scallops perched

atop mashed potatoes in a garlicky butter/chardonnay/ parsley sauce,

and pistachio crusted halibut over a duxelles of mushroom mashed

potatoes with vegetables in a merlot demi-glace. Char-grilled entrees

are lamb chops in Beaujolais thyme sauce, rib eye steak in

caramelized shallot red wine sauce; and salmon filet with spinach in

a merlot demi glace.

Yummy desserts range from luscious lemon mousse to spiced apple

tarte tatin with creme Anglaise. If you prefer an apres-dinner

aperitif, half a dozen tawny ports are listed besides a full range of

cocktails. In addition to an expanded wine list, a new ala carte

Sunday champagne brunch debuts this weekend.

NEWS BITES

Numbering a cool quintet, Laguna Beach restaurants did our

community proud last Sunday when showcasing half a dozen of their

talented executive chefs for the fascinating Great Chefs of Orange

County, National Kidney Foundation benefit at the Balboa Bay Club.

From swanky new hush, innovative Philip Kaufman wowed guests with

a superlative little caviar wrap of foie gras and scallop mousse

perked with a tiny pink garlic blossom and champagne granite.

Intimately exotic Tabu featured Jeff Platt who took braised veal a

step beyond with fresh vegetables in a tangy blueberry reduction.

Lemon truffle enhanced lobster salad for Ryan Adams’ contribution

from French 75. David E Mack did Hotel Laguna’s Claes restaurant

proud by topping tender oysters on the half shell with vegetarian

caviar and dollop of frosty sorbet. John Cuevas and Matt Leonard came

through in grand style for the Loft at Montage Resort and Spa

offering sweet tastes of fresh Weiser Farm melons rolled in vegetable

ash from the French Loire Valley, a subtle essence of lavender

complementing each tasty bite.

Among the most enticing aspects of the monthly cinema series at

[seven-degrees] are the delicious boxed suppers which greet guests

upon arrival. Featured at this last second-Thursday of the month

movie was a tantalizing pesto seasoned combination of succulent

chicken breast with al dente tube pasta. The garlicky pesto blend was

enhanced with fragrant threads of zesty parmesan cheese.

Credit this terrific taste sensation to executive chef Jerry Baker

whose recipe is currently available at Anastasia Cafe, open daily for

breakfast and lunch from 7:30 am until 3 p.m. The summer dinner menu

will resume at Festival time next year. Phone: (949) 497-8903 or

(949) 497-1212.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].