Seeing the sights from Budapest to Amsterdam
Colleen Jeffreys
We stood on the top deck of our ship as it pulled away from the dock,
gazing at the silhouette of the Baroque and classical-style buildings
of Budapest in the evening light. It was like you’ve stepped into the
pages of a modern-day fairly tale touring Budapest with its many
castles and fortresses. We viewed the Fishermen’s Bastion, St.
Stephen’s Basilica, the Royal Palace and the many bridges, including
the famous Chain Bridge inaugurated in 1849. It spans the Danube
River to connect the two cities of Buda and Pest.
We had been looking forward to 14 days seeing beautiful gardens
and exquisite architecture, and we were not disappointed.
My Newport Beach garden club friend, Gladys Gabrielian and I had
started our journey with a Lufthansa flight from LAX to Munich, with
an aircraft change for a short flight to the Budapest Airport. A
swift drive brought us to our cruise ship, “The Viking Pride.” The
Viking River Cruise ships are elegantly appointed and feature gourmet
dining, entertainment, comfortable rooms, lounges and a sundeck. With
only a little more than 100 passengers, one can be assured of making
many new friends.
Our ship sailed to Vienna, a city filled with beautiful gardens,
memorials to Strauss, cathedrals and the grand Schonbrunn Palace. The
tour of the palace included the apartments of emperor Franz Joseph I
and Empress Elizabeth. The grounds included extensive Maze and floral
gardens. In the evening we enjoyed a concert and ballet at the Palais
Liechtensteinfeaturing the music of Mozart and Johann Strauss.
We cruised over to Durnstein and then to Melk, an important
spiritual and cultural center for more than 1,000 years. First it was
the residence of the Babenberg family and since 1089 a Benedictine
monastery. The Melk Abbey, with its two towers and large dome, has
undergone extensive restorations of the splendid Baroque buildings.
It stands as one of the finest attractions in Austria.
Then it was on to Passau, Germany, a trip that included a walking
tour to the lavish St. Stephen’s Cathedral, home of one of the
world’s largest church organs It boasts 17,774 pipes. We were
privileged to enjoy the moon day organ concert.
Regensburg on the Danube was founded 200 years ago and was our
next stop. Since escaping major World War II damage, it stands as
Germany’s best-preserved medieval city. We explored the towering St.
Peter’s Cathedral, Bavaria’s most impressive Gothic wonder.
In the afternoon, we transferred to a ferry boat for a ride
through the dramatic chalk cliffs of the Danube Gorge, with a visit
to the Weltenburg Abbey in Kelheim. It was there we again boarded our
Viking Pride ship at the confluence of the Danube and the Main Danube
Canal. This canal stretches 106 miles to Nuremberg and Bamberg and
passes through stair-step locks rising 1,332 feet above sea level,
the highest point on any European commercial waterway. The ship
passes through 53 stair-step locks between Vienna and Amsterdam.
We arrived in Nuremberg in the morning. Nearly destroyed during
World War II, Nuremberg was rebuilt to reflect its heritage of
medieval culture artistry. We toured Hitler’s parade grounds and the
Justice Palace, where the war crimes tribunal sat in 1946.
Our next stop was enchanting Bamberg, dating back to 902 A.D. The
old Town Hall stands picturesquely on an island in the river Regnitz.
Waterways run throughout the city. There are narrow, winding streets,
quite steep at times and are lined with beautiful gardens, Baroque
houses, Renaissance palaces and tall cathedrals.
All this beauty really made our journey worthwhile. And, on board
our ship, the menus featured foods and wines of the various regions.
Each city had its special guides and often we were treated to the
traditional music of the area.
Wertheim, at the confluence of the Main and Tauber rivers, was a
picturesque sight with its “Pointed Tower” and some 18 additional
towers and gates throughout the city. In the town square we visited a
colorful glassworks shop and observed an artisan’s glass-blowing
demonstration.
Early the next morning we arrived at Mainz, a university town, in
the heart of the Rhine wine region. While there we visited the
Gutenberg Museum, which features the history of the printing press.
We viewed the first printed Bibles by Gutenberg.
As we cruised the Rhine to Rudesheim, we observed miles of
vineyards along the riverbanks. We enjoyed wine tasting in the
Drosselgasse, the most famous alley in the world. We also visited the
Music Museum.
The cliffs on either side of the Rhine, as we approached Cologne,
allowed us to view numerous spectacular castles. Nearing Cologne, we
could see the 13th century Gothic cathedral with its soaring
twin-steeples. It is truly one of the world’s most beautiful sights
to behold.
Our cruise ended in Amsterdam, the capital of the Netherlands and
Holland’s financial and cultural center. Consisting of 90 islands and
an intricate canal system, Amsterdam has been called, “Venice of the
North.” Its golden age architecture and colorful gardens are best
seen by canal boat. We viewed the Anne Frank house and the
world-famous Rijksmuseum.
The last day we had a wonderful farewell dinner aboard the MS
Viking Pride and after a good night’s sleep, we were off to the
airport for our 13-hour flight home.
* COLLEEN JEFFREYS is a Corona del Mar resident.
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