Brussels Bistro offers intriguing tastes

Glori Fickling

A mere six months under construction, the long-awaited Brussels

Bistro has finally livened the long-vacant site on Forest Avenue

originally known, circa 1950s, as the Cellar.

Quietly opening to the public on Laguna’s annual Christmas

Hospitality Night was a big surprise, said delighted principal Alain

Gerard, “because we became so busy we were barely prepared to handle

such a crowd.”

The launching was followed by a cocktail reception honoring

Gerard’s visiting mayor from Brussels whose presence was invited to

celebrate the introduction of his homeland’s bon vivant cuisine to

our town.

This very up-to-date brasserie is the first such of this ethnicity

here since what locals may recall as Old Brussels of ‘50s and ‘60s

renown. And the place is a dream come true for Gerard who continues

to operate two successful dining venues in his native country. He was

so attracted upon visiting Laguna Beach several years ago, that he

waited until an appropriate venue was discovered Downtown. The

opportunity arose early this year to culminate the venture.

What has emerged, after the premises was dramatically gutted, is

an entry patio steps below street level equipped with four inviting

table settings warmed via a cozy raised hearth. Sliding glass doors

fronting the tidy interior reveal a cocktail bar topped in

impenetrable, glistening zinc. This is where mixologist Gary Taylor

dispenses no less than 17 famed Brussels brews, two of which are

readily on tap, plus a full range of cocktails. Because the bar

extends to the patio making it viewable to passing traffic, it is a

welcoming invitation to conviviality.

Inside, red brick walls flank a narrow, horizontal stretch of

black and white photographs depicting life in Brussels. This is the

background for an extension of pale vinyl seating and for a bevy of

colorful imported tables. Starting with a solid walnut base, each

square top is covered with red, blue, green or gold enamel setting --

a festive pace for one’s dining experience.

The menu was conceived by executive chef Nicholas Carlier, who is

here from Gerard’s overseas businesses primarily to continue training

chefs Justo Blanco and Michael Madrigal. Both of whom learned the

basic concepts of these unusual recipes in Gerard’s busy Brussels’

establishments. The immaculate kitchen, readily viewable to guests,

features seven distinctive categories commencing with five starters

at $5 to $12; seven appetizers, $8.50 to $14.50; nine entrees, $15 to

$28; and continuing with a quartet of salads, $8.50 to $13.50; a trio

of pastas, $12 to $14; two vegetarian dishes, $11 and $12.50; and a

quintet of side dishes, $3.50 and $4. The lunch menu currently offers

daily quotes posted at the sidewalk entrance, these averaging about

$10.

Printed in French with English subtitles, the diversified bill of

fare introduces unique variations of several familiar dishes. There

are also some homey comfort foods such as beef stew in Leffe beer and

top sirloin with bearnaise sauce. Enticing side dishes are the

velvety pureed vegetables and potatoes included with certain entrees.

Undoubtedly, with so wide a repertoire, it will require many visits

to comprehend the extensive variety available.

Escargots a la blanche de Hoegaarden are one example, cooked in a

sauce based on white beer rather than the cognac-butter laced French

version we know. Tartare de boeuf au Peket et son dornet de frites,

which is considered an entree, starts with ground filet mignon that

is a bit more mustardy than usual and presented with a mound of raw

vegetables; the accompanying cone of Belgian fried potatoes are

thicker than standard French fries. Asperges a la flamande translates

to a creamy white asparagus appetizer blended in a light buttery egg

and parsley sauce. Additionally, there are Croquettes maison au

fromage, a savory appetizer of crisp, greaseless fried cheese discs.

Shellfish aficionados with a penchant for steamed mussels will

discover an entree called Casserole de moules marinieres, a l’aill,

au curry ... votre choix. This is a bountiful presentation served in

a huge pot generously brimming with dozens of tender bivalves

swimming in a tasty broth seasoned with chopped celery and onion.

These delicious crustaceans are also available in huge appetizer-size

portions. A welcome introduction to a few of these delicacies is the

assiette degustation Brussels Bistro starter offering a tasting size

assortment of appetizers for $12.

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at (949) 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].