The universal call of summer
LAGUNA LIFE
I love it! It’s 6:38 in the morning and the blue skies are in
full-scream glow. I have lost count to how many days in a row I have
awaken to these beautiful days.
Peacefulness runs through my veins as I stare out into the yet
undisturbed ocean. It lies gently in a sleeping state, glassy as if
it were wrapped and covered in silk.
The morning air is crisp and tight. It has a small bite to it. The
west wind is blowing -- I heard it whistling in the night. The ocean
has dropped a few degrees. The fog is hovering, standing on the
horizon-threatening -- not today however. It will be no match for the
already shining sun. Go home, go home Mr. Fog, back into your cave.
Today let the sun blaze. My big ears aren’t sun burned enough. You
know the feeling. I can hear every child singing the anthem “This Is
the Summer of Our Lives.” That’s a good feeling to have as a kid.
That feeling of invincibility, spending the day at the beach, dancing
through the sand and gliding through the sea.
I know the song they sing, and I still sing it today knowing every
word. Just look into my eyes and you’ll see the same kid -- the same
person spending every free moment at the beach.
In many ways I believe the ocean is my best friend, my first love,
my teacher of life.
I’ve lost some good friends in my life, friends who chose
different paths, and I have surely made my own mistakes. But in the
end it was my love for the ocean and the freedom I enjoyed that came
from surfing that kept me heading in one direction -- back down to
the beach.
I see boys and girls everyday singing the same song and dreaming
the same dreams. Long live these beautiful sunny days, and for the
kids at the beach: never give up on your dreams.
Peace.
* JAMES PRIBRAM is a Laguna Beach resident, professional surfer
and co-founder of “They Will Surf Again,” a nonprofit foundation
assisting people with spinal cord injuries. He was also a member of
the Water Quality Advisory Committee. He can be reached at
[email protected]. His Web site is
alohaschoolofsurfing.com.
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