KATHY MADER -- Dining Review

There’s a new sushi kid on the block, unassuming and a little shy,

safely tucked in the shelter of Triangle Square. Maybe too safely tucked

away, as most people still think this new restaurant is still the coffee

shop that used to reside at the same locale. But not a hint of that

coffee shop, save the rustic brick wall, is left at the new Zen Bistro on

Newport Boulevard.

“Irashai mase!” is the welcoming cry as you enter the restaurant, and

you can’t help but be impressed by the elegant Japanese-inspired decor.

The decorator should be proud. The tables and chairs are an art form in

themselves; shiny black and tan woods with bamboo and reed accents. The

ceiling is what I call “chic industrial” and manages to compliment that

aforementioned brick wall and the sleek furniture.

The glass tops of the tables protect artfully laid out glossy pebbles,

reeds and sand, reminding you of the miniature gardens for which the

Japanese are so well known. Each table is an exhibit both underneath the

glass and on top of it, with smooth black pottery laid out in the

traditional Japanese setting accompanied by one stylish flower or bonsai

plant.

Another surprise right off the bat is the extensive sake list. It’s an

unbelievable range from your average $17- to $20-bottle up to $220 a

bottle, and everything in between. Rarely a sake sampler myself, I felt

like I was missing out on something very big, something that required an

education.

Of course the wine and beer list was there for the rest of us with the

old recognizables like Asahi, Sapporo and Kirin beers. But after reading

that sake list, I very much wanted to know what it was all about.

The menu is a lot like the beverage list. Zen Bistro advertises its

food as “Sushi and California Cuisine,” but I think the sign should say

“Sushi and Creative Cuisine,” or “Clever Cuisine.” While you see some

familiar old favorites, like California rolls, Ahi tuna and some

tempuras, the majority of the entrees and appetizers are surprising and

oh so interesting. Come in just to read the menu. If you are anything

like me, one look at the appetizer section and you will ask to be seated.

For example, we ordered the tar tar tuna with wasabi and avocado

dressing ($13) appetizer. Beauty is the name of the game with Japanese

food, and everything was exceptionally lovely. The tar tar tuna was

served with multicolored tomato bits and topped with a bright green but

very mild caviar. A word to my brother, Steve -- you will love this! The

dressing was light and the whole ensemble was delicious.

To be fair, everything was delicious. It truly was. But don’t go

expecting to eat in that American order, with the salad first and the

entree last. As sushi restaurants are one to do, dishes appear at random

times with no real order. This just makes things all the more appealing.

It is also fascinating to watch the sushi chefs interact with each other.

These are artists at work, and they know it.

Of course we ordered the California roll ($5.50) and the crunchy roll

-- a rock shrimp tempura roll ($6.50) -- because that is what most of us

order. Both rate as high as any restaurant and much higher than some. Can

you tell I enjoyed myself? (A disclaimer here, since this restaurant has

been open for less than three months, there are bound to be some glitches

along the way. We, however, didn’t experience any. We intend to make this

our new sushi place for the summer.)

A standout dish besides all of the high quality Ahi tuna that we

ordered, was the sauteed jumbo shrimp in a cheese sauce. ($18). The

presentation was art, pure and simple, but the aroma cut short my

appreciation for beauty, and I had to move on. Fat, seasoned shrimp sit

on a crispy yellow potato pancake and are surrounded by a mild creamy

white cheese sauce. The only negative here is that chop sticks don’t

allow you to enjoy every last drop of it.

The grilled tuna tataki with mixed greens was a nice ending to our

meal. Could be a nice beginning to someone else’s. The zippy ginger

dressing made it. The blue crab salad and the king crab salad are next on

my list.

Brian and I took guesses at the amount of the bill as we waited for

it, and both of us were very surprised when it totaled around $60. For

the quality and sheer beauty of the food, we expected a lot more.

I just hope the Triangle Square location is as good for the Zen Bistro

as the restaurant is for us.

* KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.

FYI

WHERE: 1870 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa (Triangle Square, 1st Floor)

WHEN: Closed Mondays; Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and

Dinner is served 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Friday. On

Saturdays, the restaurant is open from 5 to 11 p.m. for dinner only.

HOW MUCH: Moderate

PHONE: (949) 722-2520