STEPHEN SANTACROCE -- Dining review

Writing restaurant reviews is just a hobby for me. My days are spent

working for a large real estate finance group where everyone wants to

know the “bottom line.”

Were I to suggest dinner to these same peers at the Five Crowns

restaurant in Corona del Mar, one would inevitably ask, “What’s it like?

Give me the bottom line.” My answer would be easy: The bottom line at

Five Crowns is prime rib.

Sure, the menu features a variety of other meat dishes, poultry and some

wonderfully fresh fish; and Five Crowns also does a spectacular Sunday

champagne brunch. But the reason people go to Five Crowns--just ask

them--is the prime rib.

That roasted prime ribs of beef is a specialty here comes as no surprise.

After all the restaurant, which has been perched at Poppy Avenue and

Pacific Coast Highway for 35 years, was opened and is still owned by the

family that founded Lawry’s restaurants.

In addition to making that great season salt I love on my popcorn,

Lawry’s Prime Rib in Los Angeles has served diners for almost half a

century, as have many of the family’s other restaurants nationwide.

Five Crowns is styled after an English country inn, and the exterior is a

reproduction of Ye Olde Belle, supposedly the oldest inn in England,

dating to 1135.

Inside, the restaurant faithfully recreates this style, with dark-wood

walls adorned with hunting prints and muted tapestries. The building is

divided into several smaller dining rooms, each having a fireplace

blazing year-round, which adds to the intimate feeling of dining in

someone’s home. A large room in the rear is open on one end and faces out

into a charming English garden, a site popular for weddings.

The authenticity doesn’t stop with the decor, either. All the waitresses

are dressed in period serving maid costumes and will instruct you to

address them as Miss Hunter or Miss Diane once your seated.

First courses feature a variety of soups and salads, as well as some more

substantial selections, such as porcini mushroom ravioli ($6.95). I’ll

warn you now, the entree portions are truly fit for a king; I’d stay with

a salad or soup unless your appetite is of royal proportions.

The signature starter is the pride of the crown’s salad ($6.50), which

tops bibb and romaine lettuce with walnuts, bacon and Gruyere cheese, all

tossed in a light vinaigrette. The bacon and cheese add a nice texture,

but mine seemed to have sat in the dressing too long--the greens were

soggy.

A better choice is the hearts of romaine ($5.95). It’s a simple salad

that pairs crisp romaine lettuce with a Stilton cheese dressing that’s

loaded with chunks of the famous English blue cheese. An elegant touch:

just before your salad is served, your waitress will deliver a perfectly

chilled salad fork.

I also liked the French onion soup ($4.95), a small crock of savory beef

and onion broth blanketed with a toasted crouton and melted cheese. The

rich broth is a wonderful prelude to the prime meats offered as entrees.

I have fond memories of dining at Lawry’s Prime Rib in Los Angeles,

watching the white-toqued waiters pushing gleaming silver carts of prime

rib around the massive dining room and carving each diner’s portion table

side.

Five Crowns has dispensed with the carts, but executive chef Dennis Brask

has mastered the art of prime rib nonetheless. Five cuts are offered,

ranging from the California cut ($21.95), a smaller portion for “lighter”

appetites, to the Henry VIII cut ($28.95), 28 ounces of perfectly

marbled, melt-your-mouth prime beef. All the cuts are perfectly cooked,

and the crust is seared and well-seasoned.

The traditional creamed spinach and Yorkshire pudding are served

alongside. Yorkshire pudding is really a popover cooked in the roast’s

pan drippings. I don’t know why it’s called “pudding,” but then I don’t

know why zero is called “love” in tennis, either.

If you just can’t bear the thought of prime rib, there are other good

selections, including several meat dishes worthy of note. The roasted

rack of lamb ($26.95) is tender and flavorful, served in a natural au jus

and accompanied by fresh vegetables. More decadent is the steak Neptune

($25.95), a tenderloin topped with crab meat, asparagus and a tangy

bearnaise sauce.

The roast duckling is another favorite ($20.95)--a large, crispy-skinned

portion served over a flavorful apple and prune compote. It’s a tasty

dish, although I found the meat a bit on the dry side.

Fish lovers might opt for the swordfish steak ($22.95), served here with

a portobello mushroom, tomato and mint salsa.

Five Crowns features excellent wine choices. The table-side list features

mostly California selections; ask for the captain’s list to see a more

extensive array that has been rated a Grand Award Winner by Wine

Spectator Magazine.

Desserts at Five Crown are consistent with the country inn hominess and

include a traditional English trifle ($5.95), a layered concoction of

English custard, white cake and berries. Or try the lighter fruit crisp

(5.95), seasonal fruits baked with a crispy oatmeal and brown sugar

topping.

Five Crowns is an elegant restaurant, and it’s easy to forget you’re

sitting in the heart of upscale Newport Beach. It’s a place to relax with

old friends and savor a more genteel time, one without cell phones and

SUVs the size of army transports; a time for conversation, good food and

fine wine.

* STEPHEN SANTACROCE’S dining reviews appear every other Thursday in the

Daily Pilot. He may be reached via e-mail at o7 [email protected]

f7 .

FYI

* WHAT: Five Crowns* WHEN: Dinner served 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through

Saturday and 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday; brunch served 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Sunday.

* WHERE: 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar

* HOW MUCH: Expensive

* PHONE: (949) 760-0331