Dining Review

Kathy Mader

Balboa Island isn’t just for summer, even though some of the locals

there might wish it were. Off season is a great opportunity for

non-island-living locals to get down there and sample some of the area’s

dining secrets while avoiding the summer crowds.

The residents who will read about Picante Martin’s (pronounced

Mar-teens), after acknowledging that their jealously guarded secret is

out, will concede and say, “It is about time.” Picante Martin’s is a

five-table, takeout tribute to all that is Mexican food. The newly

redecorated cactus flower-colored walls with their aqua trim just say

“fiesta,” and the double French doors that open to the street are the

architectural way to say what Martin himself says so well: “Welcome.”

In fact, as we sat and ate, Martin, the owner -- along with his wife,

Raquel, and head chef -- greeted every customer by name. Does he know

what sells or what?

The restaurant actually started out as the continuation of anexisting

sandwich shop about two years ago, and some of that original menu has

been held over for you gringos with mild tastes -- and Midwestern Rose

Bowl fans.

Clam chowder, chicken noodle soup, salads, hamburgers and sandwiches

are all available for a quick lunch stop. However, as the clients came

and begged Martin and Raquel for the real Mexican stuff, the menu evolved

into some traditional and complicated dishes.

Chicken mole, a Mexican classic, is a mixture of tender pieces of

chicken simmering in a complex sauce containing myriad spices with a hint

of chocolate. The flavors can be so unusual to the American tongue that

the mind just can’t accept chocolate and spices in the same bite.

The recipe for mole is traditionally handed from one generation of the

family to the next. And if two families bring the same dish to a party,

you can have what appears to be two different dishes sharing the same

name. Picante Martin’s version is spicy and very rich, loaded with unique

flavor. This is served with mild Spanish rice, refried beans and warm

tortillas. Go ahead, try it. We did and liked it very much.

One specialty, worthy of the term “destination dish,” is the

traditional Mexican sandwich -- the torta. Picante Martin’s grills up a

variety of tortas, including chicken, carne asada (beef), carnitas

(pork), chorizo (Mexican sausage) and ham and cheese, all served on

Mexican telera bread -- a soft, round bread.

Included in these tortas are some delightful surprises like avocado,

salsa, pinto beans and cojita cheese. All sandwiches range from $4.24 to

$4.95 and can definitely be classified as a meal. If you like more

Americanized Mexican food, try the Hamburguesa Mexicana ($4.45), a

half-pound hamburger with bacon, avocado, jalapenos and grilled onions.

All the Mexican favorites we have come to know and love are also

available, from big, bad burritos, served both wet and dry, to chile

rellenos, enchiladas, taquitos and tamales. We enjoyed the chimiflautas

($6.45), a crispy tortilla stuffed with chicken and served with sour

cream and guacamole.

Picante Martin’s guacamole, by the way, lives up to the name “picante”

-- spicy and full of onions and tomatoes.

If you were only thinking about ordering to go, they serve their

guacamole with crispy, light tortilla chips as a standard appetizer for

all who eat in.

The breakfast menu offers up “the usual” from both countries, chili

and cheese omelets ($4.25) and bacon and eggs, to huevos rancheros

($4.25) and chilaquiles, seasoned tortilla strips topped with two eggs

and smothered in a tomatilla sauce. Gives you a great excuse to go

walking around the island.

Picante Martin’s is popular with the island residents, who are

thankful it seems, for some real Mexican food.

We heard several patrons tell Martin they missed him and his food

terribly while he was closed for remodeling. And while the doors are

open, you can call out to friends passing by -- I can guarantee Martin

will -- they can call in, and everyone can watch all that island action.

The friendly, enthusiastic attitude and the hours of operation show

that Martin and his wife have adapted well to island living.

They open 8:30-ish in the morning and close 9-ish at night. However,

bang on the doors after closing, and if Martin is there and the stove is

still hot, he would love to make you something.

Martin and Raquel have what it takes to make a success of their small

restaurant, good food and first-rate customer service. Come on down for

some authentic Mexican food and make a new friend while you’re at it.

KATHY MADER’s dining reviews appear every other Thursday.

WHAT: Picante Martin’s

WHERE: 320 Marine Ave., Ste B, (Main Street) Balboa Island

WHEN: Summer: 8:30 a.m. to 9 a.m.; Winter: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

HOW MUCH: Inexpensive

PHONE: (949) 675-4627