MARY FURR -- Dining Out

Laurette Bistro, snug in the corner of the Ralph’s and Sav-On strip mall

on Beach Boulevard and Garfield Avenue in Huntington Beach, is like a bit

of Paris -- the kind of place you’ll treasure for your morning latte’ or

noontime croque monsieur. It’s the dream come true for co-owner Laurette

Turgemon and partner Simon Tourein, who had a restaurant on Sunset

Boulevard in Hollywood.

The warm, sunny colors welcome you with a display case at the entrance

that is full of patisseries, fruit tarts and cakes. A scattering of

marble-top tables fill the tiny cafe, ready for your order of creamy cafe

latte ($2.25) and perhaps a Spanish omelet with fresh, juicy tomatoes,

onions and crisp green peppers ($5.25) to start the day. If you like a

light breakfast, a marmalade crepe ($3.25) is fine, light paper-thin

pancakes spread with a not-too-sweet citrus jam. It is much like what

you’d find in a neighborhood bistro.

For lunch, o7 le croque monsieurf7 ($5.25) is to the French what a

hamburger is to an American. Laurette has a great one, with the ham

between slices of homemade bread (they bake their own), covered with

cheese and slipped under the broiler to come out hot and bubbly. It’s

served with a small, mixed green salad on the plate.

Another classic French dish, o7 soupe a l’oignonf7 ($3.25) served in a

heavy crock has beef broth, thick with with onions and pieces of bread

topped with cheese and heated until it all comes together with the cheese

dripping over the edge. The crock holds the heat -- so eat carefully as

you savor each bite of mild sweet onion slices, soaked bread and stringy

cheese.

Laurette’s is a friendly neighborly place with diners asking each other,

“What is that?” and then ordering the same thing.

o7 Le pouletf7 ($7.25), a chicken specialty, has three pieces of

deboned chicken rubbed with lemon butter, char-marked and tender, served

with a pile of savory rice and a small green salad. The rice is soft and

flavored with onion and bits of bacon. A side order of sauteed mushrooms

($2.50) is excellent. Earthy and warm, you’ll want to spread them on the

slices of fresh bread and all over the chicken pieces.

Another specialty, o7 le saumonf7 ($7.95), also grilled, is thick and

delicious -- really fresh. Presented on the fish skin, it gets its

moisture naturally.

The menu is not extensive, but you feel each dish is carefully prepared.

The chef may even peek out from the kitchen to see how you like it.

The menu at Laurette’s is limited and service is a little slow, but this

is not the kind of place for those in a hurry. Laurette wants you to

relax and savor her dream of a little bit of Paris in Huntington Beach.

* MARY FURR is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions, call her at (562) 493-5062.

FYI

LAURETTE BISTRO

WHERE: 19879 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach

HOURS: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily

PHONE:596-8818

MISCELLANEOUS: Credit cards are accepted