Dining review

Kathy Mader

If you have been to the Bluewater Grill in Newport Beach, then I am not

telling you anything new when I say that Bluewater Grill’s fish is fresh.

Bluewater fishermen catch most of their fish, deliver it to their

original restaurant down by The Cannery and drive it over to the new

South Coast Village restaurant, slice it up and serve it, all in the same

day.

You can’t beat that for fresh, unless you consider the tank of live

lobsters that greets you at the door of this casually elegant restaurant.

The newest Bluewater Grill -- located in what is rapidly becoming a hub

for fine dining, South Coast Village -- is several steps ahead of the

average fish house. Sure it has the blown up black-and-white pictures of

fishermen and fishing days gone by, and yes they even serve rice pilaf

and coleslaw like other fish houses tend to do. But this is where the

similarities stop. You won’t find paper plates, sawdust and extreme noise

here. What you will find is beautifully finished woods with brass

accents, ceiling fans, large booths, and a cozy bar that serves up a

whopper of a wine list that includes a nice selection of champagnes.

Many tables are in view of the kitchen with its shiny red tiles adding a

splash of excitement to all of the warm wood tones. This is where one can

witness the final gourmet touches and none of the gross stuff that comes

with fish just out of the water.

Speaking of fish just out of the water, The Bluewater Grill prints up a

new menu daily that reads like a Who’s Who in the Water. The specialties

on the night we visited included the California spiny lobster ($19.75),

done the Puerto Nuevo way, boiled briefly, cut in half and grilled on the

open flame and brushed with garlic butter; and the Santa Fe marinated

thresher shark ($16.95). I always encourage ordering shark when it’s on

the menu as it is one less in the water.

We started with the ahi sashimi ($9.75), so fresh that I am sure it was

swimming earlier in the day, and savory clams casino ($9.70). Keep bread

handy for the extra sauce. Did I mention the bread? Piping hot loaves of

crusty sour dough delivered all night long.

We also sampled the New England clam chowder. Bluewater Grill serves both

red and white, and would be the ideal place to stop in on a rainy night,

or after a long day of shopping, and have a warm bowl of chowder and hot

bread. Lobster bisque and oyster stew are also on the menu and you can

bet I will be back for those.

Brian, my husband, did his job and ordered something I would have never

thought to, the Washington petrale sole ($16.15) served with lemon caper

butter. I ordered the mother lode of all fish dishes and the house

specialty, cioppino ($21.75). This dish had a half of a Dungeness crab,

scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels and white fish in a zesty tomato-based

sauce and served over linguine. This fish stew can feed a family of two

for a week.The Bluewater Grill’s list of fresh fish changes daily, but

includes local snapper, Mississippi catfish, Atlantic salmon, Alaskan

halibut and Minnesota walleye pike. For those of you with both feet

firmly planted on land, certified Angus beef, politically correct

free-range chicken and pasta dishes are available.

Dessert choices include key lime pie ($3.25), mud pie ($4.95) and fresh

baked apple pie. Remember, it is important to make it hurt. We went for

the kill and had the mud pie.

Various lunch specials such as chowder, bread and salad are available at

great prices throughout the week.

In addition, South Coast Plaza Village provides a shuttle to and from the

Orange County Performing Arts Center and South Coast Repertory, which

makes for an easy pre- or post-dining experience.

The Bluewater Grill hosts different events throughout the year, which

include wine dinners and oyster tastings, just put your name on the list.

One of the finest things about the Bluewater Grill was our waiter,

Jeremy. He was friendly, funny, knowledgeable and determined to please.

But that kind of attitude starts at the top, and owners Jim Ulcickas,

Richard Staunton and Bill Carpenter know it and the Bluewater Grill

reflects it. Chef Brian Hirsty was having a lot of fun as well.

Bluewater Grill

WHERE: 1621 W. Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa (at South Coast Plaza Village)

WHEN: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

HOW MUCH: Moderately expensive

PHONE: (714) 546-FISH