DINING OUT -- Mary Furr

Coach’s Mediterranean cuisine has moved across Main Street in Huntington

Beach to a newer, bigger spot, now called Sunset Mediterranean Grill,

with sidewalk umbrella tables, a patio, a big deep interior with a

15-stool bar and the best Turkish-Greek-Mediterranean food in town.

On a lovely fall day in Huntington Beach you feel as if you are on a

terrace in Athens, surrounded by the aroma of lemon and garlic. Don’t be

timid, plunge right into this exotic food and order the Sunset Special

Feast for Two ($29.95).

It’s really a bargain when you realize that the appetizer plate alone

includes five Turkish specialties -- a crater of pale gold hummus

(crushed chickpeas with olive oil), four dolmas, dark shining grape

leaves wrapped around moist rice and herbs, four crunchy beef and lamb

patties (kopke), a pile of black Greek olives, a salad of cubed

cucumbers, tomato and parsley with bits of cracked wheat (tabulah) and a

plate of spongy warm pita bread triangles spread with the hummus.

The appetizer is an aromatic sampler of cold Turkish specialties, but

it’s only the beginning, to be followed by a big hot platter with a base

of rice pilaf topped with two long skewers, one of tender beef, one of

chicken, a pile of gyros, thin slices of beef and lamb cut from meat

cooked on a vertical broiler, wonderful crunchy light garlic flavored

beef and lamb patties (kopke) and around the edges broiled quarters of

tomato and red pepper slices slashed with dark markings from the

charbroiler. It’s like eating perfume -- the smell, texture and color of

Turkey.

Our charming server, Australian Melanie, finished the feast by serving a

plate of six honey soaked baklava, filo leaves layered with walnuts -- so

sweet, so irresistible.

The Sunset Mediterranean Grill is owned by Chef Murat Koc, better known

as Coach, a native of Turkey, the youngest of five brothers and son of a

baker. He worked first at Gulan Indian Restaurant in Fashion Island, then

was partner and chef at Tosh’s on Beach Boulevard before opening his own

place on Main Street.

At this newest spot he has as chef Douglas Miller, a California native,

who has cooked in Turkey, Greece, the South Pacific and the last three

years in Mexico.

Chef Miller says that owner Koc is a “stickler for quality” and the two

chefs feel that with the Sunset Mediterranean Grill they have stepped

from the ordinary to the extraordinary, giving diners a “deeper culinary

experience with a Mediterranean flair.”

They want the cuisine at the Grill to reflect the energy of Main Street.

The extensive and varied menu says this is “A place where Coach’s dreams

come true, maybe yours will as well.” If your dreams are for truly great

gourmet Turkish food, they will come true at the Grill.

Sunset Mediterranean Grill

Where: 200 Main St., Huntington Beach

Phone: (714) 969-2233

Hours: Monday-Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m. to 10

p.m.

Mary Furr is the Independent restaurant critic. If you have comments or

suggestions for her, call (562) 493-5062.