Hidden treasure: Omakase pop-up Taikun takes up residence at the Ritz-Carlton

In a small room at the Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel, behind two white double doors just off the lobby is a hidden dining room where you will find omakase pop-up Taikun.

“It is a carefully curated bespoke experience,” said Adrian Taylor, Taikun’s director of operations.

Curated by executive chef Kei Yoshino, Taikun is a 16-course tasting menu with dishes, as with traditional omakase, selected by the chef. The pop-up is a hidden treasure, where each expertly sliced sliver of hamachi or perfectly torched yaki toro is it’s own gem, presented on an onyx pedestal.

“Our head chef sources product directly from Tokyo bay,” said Taylor. “He actually is originally from Chiba, Japan, which is right across from Tokyo bay.”

Chef Yoshino prepares 16 courses at Taikun inside the Ritz-Carlton in Laguna Niguel.

(Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton)

The story of Taikun goes back to Aspen, Colo. where restaurateur Ryan Chadwick hosted Nakazawa Aspen inside what was formerly his Grey Lady/Mr. Grey space. The successful season-long run of Nakazawa inspired Chadwick to bring his own sushi concept to his New York restaurants.

“We continued doing the pop-ups in upstate New York and in Miami as well, at the Four Seasons,” said Taylor.

The latest evolution of the pop-up comes to the Ritz-Carlton in Dana Point from now through Nov. 5. A private dining room on the beachfront property has been completely transformed into an eight-seat sushi counter. Chef Yoshino presents the seafood and other fresh ingredients to diners, who have a chance to interact with him directly as he prepares each course. Yoshino studied under Master chef Shigeru Shiraishi, and his resume includes some of New York’s top omakase restaurants, like Sushi Kaito and Sushi Nakazawa.

The menu, priced at $175 per person includes Zuke Chu-Toro, a soy marinated medium-fatty tuna, Sakura Smoked
Masu, a Japanese cherrywood smoked salmon, and Yaki Toro, a torched fatty tuna. A highlight is the Hotate scallop brushed with ponzu and sprinkled with bamboo charcoal salt.

Hotate scallop with bamboo charcoal salt and ponzu at Taikun.

(Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton)

“We also offer modern twists with black truffle and caviar,” said Taylor.

The Toro Tartare, finely diced fatty tuna, for example, is topped with caviar, and the Hokkaido Uni is crowned with a curl of black truffle. Additionally, caviar or black truffle can be added to any course for $20.

A beverage pairing is also available, featuring sakes curated by Taylor.

“The ethos behind the pairings is to complement the fish and please the palate,” Taylor said.

Taylor prefers to begin diners with floral sakes with more tropical notes to compliment the lighter, white fish.

“As we get deeper into the omakase, with more fattier fishes, the sake reflects that with more umami, medium-bodied sakes that will stand up to the fat of Otoro and A5 wagyu,” Taylor said.

The menu and its pairings are thoughtful, but Taylor said it is the small but vibrant touches that make the Taikun experience stand out.

The sushi menu at Taikun features high-quality fish sourced primarily from Japan.

(Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton)

“Our wasabi root comes from Japan; we will never have pickled wasabi, it will be the root and the leaf,” said Taylor, “which is difficult to get in the United States, but it does have a different flavor profile.”

Taikun offers two seatings per evening, the first at 5:30 and a second at 8. All seats are at the omakase counter, and reservations can be made on Tock.